Maximum track lug height Phazer-I/II ?
- Thread starter Lasse
- Start date
How tall do you want to go?
As tall as possible with stock drivers !
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I have a 1.25" in with the stock drivers on my PzII. I think you can fit a 1.5" but it would be very tight.
But thats with stock drivers... if you would go to 7 tooth, you would be able to get 1.75 for sure in there.
all phazers (pogo)prior to 1999(pro-action) had 8t drivers. 1.25 is your best bet and if you can find a 1.37, those will give you the additional snow sling your looking for and keep room up front for snow evacuation. put them on backwards.
you can make up a bit of difference by dropping the front arm down about 5/8"(.625) and back slightly(enough to get a new bolt hole) if you keep all the other geometry in ratio. if your trail running, the 1.5 will slap the tunnel and bulkhead under suspension compression or track ballooning and robs what hp you have by not letting the snow out. chokes it up basically. same with deep snow, you just cant rid enough snow of you close that exit up between the track and the bulkhead.
you can make up a bit of difference by dropping the front arm down about 5/8"(.625) and back slightly(enough to get a new bolt hole) if you keep all the other geometry in ratio. if your trail running, the 1.5 will slap the tunnel and bulkhead under suspension compression or track ballooning and robs what hp you have by not letting the snow out. chokes it up basically. same with deep snow, you just cant rid enough snow of you close that exit up between the track and the bulkhead.
I have a 144"x15"x1.5" track ( http://www.camoplastsolideal.com/snowmobile/products/cross-country ) and a 144" Lynx "RCG" skid lying around and was thinking to put this on daughter's ( 1991 ) Venture-480 TF
I thinking of go for 8-teeth No-Slip drivers and I'm not found of the idea to go for smaller drivers.
Too much drawbacks going with smaller drivers.
Is it possible to mount a 1.5" track in the Phazer-I/II bulkhead with 8-T drivers ?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Below is a Exciter-I with a Lynx "RCG" skid that has been stretched from 136" to 144"
I love it... very sharp.
straight up on that intention i would drop to 7's and run anti-ratchets. you can slip the 1.5 in with the stock 8t's but the clearance at the bulkhead kills snow evacuation along with overall performance. you will pay hell trying to slip a 1.5 in there with 8t antiratchets.
i did a similar transplant like your picture with a 153 nytro mtx skid in a pz II. problem was too much track and not enough front suspension adjustment. remember that the exciters was a bit more travel. long story short, it was a track rider and body english to maneuver on the hard pack. my kids couldnt turn the thing on trail, but oi had a blast with it off trail. the 144 is a similar issue. to gain trail manners you will lose ride quality. never mattered to us if the skid beat the crap out of you for a few miles. those darn things shine when you dumb them in the deep.
basically what happens is the sled rides more on the track than the skis. by the time you get the front of the rear sucked up enough to gain any ski pressure its so stiff for us old farts. kids love it. mine never complained about ride quality until they got older.
keep things safe for your daughter. you may have to make some serious swings at the skid adjustments. read that as a few extra holes in the tunnel. one of my best was a relocated 133 polaris skid with the 144 track. since i typically run hard bars vs carbides, short of icy conditions that sled actually handled and that particular skid is very close to the pz skids.
i did a similar transplant like your picture with a 153 nytro mtx skid in a pz II. problem was too much track and not enough front suspension adjustment. remember that the exciters was a bit more travel. long story short, it was a track rider and body english to maneuver on the hard pack. my kids couldnt turn the thing on trail, but oi had a blast with it off trail. the 144 is a similar issue. to gain trail manners you will lose ride quality. never mattered to us if the skid beat the crap out of you for a few miles. those darn things shine when you dumb them in the deep.
basically what happens is the sled rides more on the track than the skis. by the time you get the front of the rear sucked up enough to gain any ski pressure its so stiff for us old farts. kids love it. mine never complained about ride quality until they got older.
keep things safe for your daughter. you may have to make some serious swings at the skid adjustments. read that as a few extra holes in the tunnel. one of my best was a relocated 133 polaris skid with the 144 track. since i typically run hard bars vs carbides, short of icy conditions that sled actually handled and that particular skid is very close to the pz skids.
Last edited:
THANX for your advice. But since I already have the track laying around and I feel that it has not a full block pattern
I take a chance that it will not hurt the snow evacuation/performance to much.
The important thing for me is that it will fit with 8-teeth drivers.
( I can not se why No-Slip drivers would make it more difficult to fit )
The sled already has an 151"x15"x0,5" track since it was brand new back in 1991.
However I feel the 151" track is to long and putting to much weight on the tiny/narrow skis which leads to heavy front end and nose dive.
Therefore I want to put in a 144" track and modern skid instead.
I also will put modern plastic skis about 7"-8" wide on it to make it handle better.
What do you think about my ideas ?
your ideas are good with the 144 and the modern skid. skis wont really make that much difference other than flotation. flotation only factors in with loose snow.
if you opt for 8t antiratchets, your going to find out why i suggested not to go that route. long story short, there is barely enough room between the driveshaft and the bulkhead with a 1.5 track. basically you have to wedge that track in over the stock drivers. now picture the raised portion of the antiratchets(the track window drive). its almost physically impossible to get the 1.5 over the track drivers and clear the bulkhead.
not saying it cant be done(it has been), but dollar for dollar your going to wish you bought 7t antiratchets, not to mention colorful words and bloddy knuckles. dont forget the lack of snow evacuation. simply clamp a 2x4 on your 151 nothing track and see how well it rotates past the bulkhead. now imagine stuffing a track over drivers that protrude another .75-1" more so than the stockers and you will see what i mean.
these are my opinions based on real world experiences that i have gone through. where and how we ride is very dependent on snow getting out of the skid. your results may vary. i have never set a sled up to run in swedish conditions nor have i ever ridden there. there are hundreds of videos shot in north idaho, where i ride and set sleds up to perform, that display the type of snow out here. this may help you understand why i am pro snow evac.
good luck, you a fun project at hand. do some fine tuning when its all together and keep the daughter safe.
if you opt for 8t antiratchets, your going to find out why i suggested not to go that route. long story short, there is barely enough room between the driveshaft and the bulkhead with a 1.5 track. basically you have to wedge that track in over the stock drivers. now picture the raised portion of the antiratchets(the track window drive). its almost physically impossible to get the 1.5 over the track drivers and clear the bulkhead.
not saying it cant be done(it has been), but dollar for dollar your going to wish you bought 7t antiratchets, not to mention colorful words and bloddy knuckles. dont forget the lack of snow evacuation. simply clamp a 2x4 on your 151 nothing track and see how well it rotates past the bulkhead. now imagine stuffing a track over drivers that protrude another .75-1" more so than the stockers and you will see what i mean.
these are my opinions based on real world experiences that i have gone through. where and how we ride is very dependent on snow getting out of the skid. your results may vary. i have never set a sled up to run in swedish conditions nor have i ever ridden there. there are hundreds of videos shot in north idaho, where i ride and set sleds up to perform, that display the type of snow out here. this may help you understand why i am pro snow evac.
good luck, you a fun project at hand. do some fine tuning when its all together and keep the daughter safe.
Daphaze
New member
Going to resurrect an old thread!
IF....you did 7T driver and say a 136’ track and 2’ lug.....What do you think cruising speeds are going to be on the trail? How much top end speed do you loose by doing this?
IF....you did 7T driver and say a 136’ track and 2’ lug.....What do you think cruising speeds are going to be on the trail? How much top end speed do you loose by doing this?
