Yeah, new screws with the rebuild kit.
Trouble with old Phazer - Questions
- Thread starter 6spdtaco
- Start date
Is that a jobber rebuild kit?
Reason why i ask is. The jobber kits... the jet sizing is way off not even close to genuine Mikunie size. I will not even install these kits anymore. Every dam one of them kits is way out to lunch. If you size them with a genuine Mikunie.
Reason why i ask is. The jobber kits... the jet sizing is way off not even close to genuine Mikunie size. I will not even install these kits anymore. Every dam one of them kits is way out to lunch. If you size them with a genuine Mikunie.
Let's take a step back. You have an engine that runs on one cylinder. You know both have spark and compression....it's fuel related.
Try putting some fuel in the not firing cylinder(exhaust) directly and cranking it over with the clutch cylinder's spark plug disconnected.
Try putting some fuel in the not firing cylinder(exhaust) directly and cranking it over with the clutch cylinder's spark plug disconnected.
All ball's racing rebuild kit. Any suggestions where I can find a better kit?
Seems to be running now. Might have been flooded from so many attempts to start with bad idle?
Temp is much hotter on the clutch side. Is this normal since the fan side is getting cooled more?
Sled still bogs, but now at 3000rpm. I know this is typically TORS related, but it has been bypassed. If you keep into the throttle it does continue to rev past 3000.
Most of the time carb rebuild kits are not even needed, unless the carb at some point has been so badly sludged up, that parts have pitting.
There are very few parts that wear out in these carbs, and when it comes to aftermarket carb kits I don't trust that they are made to exact specification. When I do get them, be it for sled, atv, motorbike, I only use a couple of key parts and throw the rest in the scrap metal.
What was it that appeared damaged or worn in the carbs in the first place?
Usually this carb only requires the bowl 0-ring and float valves maybe.
There are very few parts that wear out in these carbs, and when it comes to aftermarket carb kits I don't trust that they are made to exact specification. When I do get them, be it for sled, atv, motorbike, I only use a couple of key parts and throw the rest in the scrap metal.
What was it that appeared damaged or worn in the carbs in the first place?
Usually this carb only requires the bowl 0-ring and float valves maybe.
38 year old machine that looked like it was ridden in the ocean, yeah, I needed to replace some parts.
Sounds like it is lean not picking up fuel.these butterfly carbs there is a lean spot between pilot jet and main jet. If pilot jet is "lean smaller than stock" it struggles to rev up. If idle screw is damaged or wrong taper it can't get enough fuel to Rev up.
If you flip up the choke when it is struggling at 3000 rpm will it rev up?
Haven't flipped it at 3k but at normal idle it will stall out almost immediately.
Can you post pics?
Do you have the stock airbox installed?
Attachments
In the pic with the carbs installed, the choke plunger holes look very dirty. Are the plungers sliding up and down properly?
Also, the left carb isn't into the boot.
Also, the left carb isn't into the boot.
Yeah, that pic was before cleaning/rebuilding and reinstalling. Shows how bad it WAS. everything is clean and adjusted now. Good eye though!
Good luck. Not sure what else I can say.
You have inspected the reeds?
You have inspected the reeds?
I have not. What should I be looking for with the reeds? Is there a good aftermarket replacement option? Does it need new gaskets if I remove them for inspection?
Is that the same as the "air chamber" the plastic tube that goes between the two air intakes between the carb and the engine? If so, then yes, they are installed when running.
Inspect the petals. There should be none broken or cracked. The cage has rubber molded over it. Inspect the condition.
However, a broken reed will cause running issues at low rpm, but at full throttle most sleds will run fine even with a broken reed.
NorthofSixty
Member
When you cleaned the carbs did you make sure the small transfer hole between the main jet tower and slow jet tower was clear. It is located just above the main jet and often over looked. If it is not clear that cylinder will lean out in the mid range and often burn down at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. A friend of mine burned his up two or three times not knowing the transfer holes were plugged.