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Thread: SXVenom Build - Running Log

  1. #41
    Super Moderator Maim's Avatar
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    you could always use an angle gauge from the hardware store.
    sleds
    540cc workhorse (vk 540)
    410cc reliable power (enticerII) rx tunnel braces
    500cc mutant margarita mixer (09 phazer rtx/x)
    1000cc of dependability (11 apex xtx)
    1000cc of yamaha excellence ( 16 apex xtx)

    motorcycle's
    00 xt350 mod
    08 wr250x

    atv
    2005 big bear pro

  2. #42


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    Been a while since I've updated this. My father took over the painting which I'm happy and grateful for. He's almost done clear coating that.


    Heatshields installed on silencer and pipe with new straps and allen head plated bolts/washers:




    Tuner skis with Yamaha P/N (Woody) wearbar only and Stud Boy 4.5" carbide. The Stud Boy's fit terrible. Had to bend them and grind the sides of them to fit into the ski. These were made for this ski P/N (SMA-8JHDS-00-00). The Yamaha P/N fit fine. Some before/after photos of them, and installed. Think I decided on the carbides on inside after reading some more threads on the 2 stroke side. I appreciate everyone's input though! Hell, maybe I'll swap the skis over in the same day and see how they are on the same trail conditions reversed. Going to be a lot more bite than the stock setup I thinks.









  3. #43


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    All new suspension bolts/bushings/heims are set ready to go on and grease. New exhaust springs and gaskets ready to go on. Cleaned up the belly pan area and engine since I had space. I wouldn't be happy with it unless I could pull it all out and sand blast it, but with the current access I have it's ok.





    Cleaned up both primary and secondary sheaves. Also ordered some secondary shims to get my belt up a little more in the secondary.

    Will also be getting some tight tolerance shims tomorrow for the upper shock mounts (https://www.mcmaster.com/90214a422), the new replacement clevis' that came on the rebuild from Hygear have 2-2.5mm of play in them to the bushing. Will be evenly spacing them to center the shock up to the bulkhead. Stock shocks that came off had about a 1mm gap, I'll see how they line up to the trailing arms and go from there.

    Getting ready for a trip leaving next Thursday, hope to get er ready! Haven't touched the skid, will grease it and wait to rebuild it for the summer.


  4. #44


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    Pipe straps I used: https://www.mcmaster.com/6898k74
    Replacement cotter pins (seem ok, yet to install): https://www.mcmaster.com/98350a210


  5. #45
    Senior Member Open Mod Vincent's Avatar
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    Nice build, keep it commin
    2000 Venture 700

    -Head gasket thinned
    -Stainless reed stoppers notched
    -Cobra 1.35 x 136" track
    -Home made transfer rod
    -Boss Seat
    -Apex helix, 8ch weights, +2.8g per tip, wpw spring, 8dn belt, green sec @ 70
    -22-39 gears with reverse
    -Rox 3" risers
    -Plastic skis
    -Drilled can
    -Electric start system and ring gear removed.
    -LED headlight and tale light

  6. #46
    Senior Member Open Mod A couple of bucks's Avatar
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    What did you decide on insulation between the the pipe and cover?
    Dannyboy

  7. #47
    Senior Member Stock
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    Feb 2013
    Location
    Grand Rapids Michigan
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    Can I ask? I read you entire post and maybe I missed it some place, how are you cleaning these parts? They look really clean like ultra sonic clean! or maybe its just the pictures.

  8. #48


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    I used this stuff: https://www.mcmaster.com/93315k51

    Traced the stock insulation liners, and cut out one set of each, let me double check what side I put the new vs. oem on tonight (I can't remember off the top of my head...). I first tried 2 layers of the new stuff sandwiching the stock but was too thick to get the shields to attach correctly. I don't really trust the stuff I bought alone without the oem, I just don't know the specs of the oem material to replace it exactly, and this stuff I bought has silica 'beads' in it (kind of gritty when cutting it). It would probably be fine rated for 2000*f but .

    THe clutch parts were cleaned in a parts washer by hand. The above bolts and stuff in the last post are actually all new, the originals had a ton of rust (shown earlier). I tried to clean some in an ultrasonic then wirewheel just to see but the zinc coating was worn off and would just rust again. The radius rods and trailing arms were sand blasted. The steering arms I just first used the ultrasonic, then used green stochbright.

    Btw, OEM stuff is expensive, but I found Partzilla is cheaper than dealer parts fiches. Also this thread helped me on bolts for stainless replacements: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/s...aha-bolt-sizes
    Last edited by Yzed608; 01-03-2020 at 07:37 AM.


  9. #49


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    Sorry 01, I edited my last post if you didn't see it, I think we posted at the same time.


  10. #50


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    I've actually thought about getting a plating/anodizing kit to try to replate stock stuff after blasting, I'm guessing that would be much cheaper than buying new in the long run.


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