roudyroy1
Active member
Not ideal but you could always bend it back as it seems like a slight bend. thats what i did to my sxr when i could not find a new silver one. bent it back 3 years ago and its still fine.
TominacAuto
New member
A block of wood and a big hammer. Give it a couple whacks and it will probably straighten out pretty well. Did that to mine as a temporary fix and still running it that way.
Haven't been working on this, seems like I've been putting the project on the back burner for almost 2 years 
. Currently have everything to rebuild front and rear suspension, while converting rear shock and side arms to bearings and add 4th wheel kit. I've had the Viper shocks sent out to Hygear for a rebuild and revalve. Both fronts and the skid rear shock needed new shafts. Anything else needed replacing was and they put their "performance trail" valving setup. I had the front springs powdercoated white. All spring preloads set to nominal. These will not go on until I take everything else apart and do it all at once.
The preload adjustment on the steelies is so much easier, fighting with the spanner wrenches is a pain
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Right now the sled is ready for this year. Cleaned carbs and greased zerks. Looking forward to finally tearing the whole thing apart come spring. Hopefully will get to go on a few trips before then.
Have been thinking about getting a multi-angle helix for it, re-reading Aaen's clutch book again and I notice they have teflon coated helixes. Not sure if I want to go that direction or just leave it stock 47 straight. Was thinking their teflon coated 52/45 (or Yamaha oem 51/43) with new slider buttons and see how it works? Whole clutch setup is stock, but secondary is wrapped at 80 instead of 70, accident on my part.
Also might need more shims for the back of the secondary, belt is in spec for width but sits slightly below sheaves, already 1 shim on each of the 3 bolts. Slight hesitation just running on the stand because of it I can feel.
. Currently have everything to rebuild front and rear suspension, while converting rear shock and side arms to bearings and add 4th wheel kit. I've had the Viper shocks sent out to Hygear for a rebuild and revalve. Both fronts and the skid rear shock needed new shafts. Anything else needed replacing was and they put their "performance trail" valving setup. I had the front springs powdercoated white. All spring preloads set to nominal. These will not go on until I take everything else apart and do it all at once.The preload adjustment on the steelies is so much easier, fighting with the spanner wrenches is a pain
.Right now the sled is ready for this year. Cleaned carbs and greased zerks. Looking forward to finally tearing the whole thing apart come spring. Hopefully will get to go on a few trips before then.
Have been thinking about getting a multi-angle helix for it, re-reading Aaen's clutch book again and I notice they have teflon coated helixes. Not sure if I want to go that direction or just leave it stock 47 straight. Was thinking their teflon coated 52/45 (or Yamaha oem 51/43) with new slider buttons and see how it works? Whole clutch setup is stock, but secondary is wrapped at 80 instead of 70, accident on my part.
Also might need more shims for the back of the secondary, belt is in spec for width but sits slightly below sheaves, already 1 shim on each of the 3 bolts. Slight hesitation just running on the stand because of it I can feel.
Bought an Aaen roller secondary that was on a Viper, 48 straight helix. Was searching just for a helix on ebay and ended up finding this. Any ideas on how it'll work on the 600 with it's current setup? Need to make any primary changes? I'm guessing it's the brown spring, as that is the only one Aaen lists on their site. Maybe I'll e-mail them and see what their setup suggestion is.
Seller's photos.
Seller's photos.
Update... Finally starting on this thing. Front suspension all torn off, going to blast and repaint the radius rods and trailing arms in Yamaha blue. Bought an aftermarket right trailing arm to replace my bent one, hopefully it holds up, not the exact same construction as OEM. I ended up ordering a bunch of replacement hardware, a lot of it was rusted pretty bad from whoever stored this thing outside. Also the bulkhead bolts for the radius rods were REALLY hard to get out. Same with the outer tie rod bolts. All the bushings will be replaced, I just threw them in the ultrasonic cleaner to test as this was the first time I used it.
Also took the exhaust off to be blasted and ceramic coated. Main system will be black and heat shields will be a dark grey color. Took it to a local place, turns out they use cerakote. The grey they called the dark grey "Tungsten". Should look cool I think. Found some stuff on McMaster to use to replace the foam stuff on the heat shields, it compresses more so may just line the front and back of the stock stuff with it.
Anyone have any tips for installing the manifold to the cylinders? Was hard to get a socket in the lowers to get them out, I'm worried putting them on will be even harder, and no access for torque wrench.
When I bent the trailing arm whatever I hit also tore up the ski, was going to just trim the torn part but it would just catch on stuff or send a snow stream up. So I bought a set of tuner skis, going to try Stud Boys 4.5" Shaper bars on inside, and OEM Yamaha wear bar only on outside.
Decided if I have time I'll disassemble and clean up the roller secondary mentioned in above posts, and get it all set. Won't put it on unless I end up with some time I can use for testing, will just keep the current clutch setup if I go on a few small rides which it seems is all I've been able to do the past few years (didn't get out at ALL last year)
Also took the exhaust off to be blasted and ceramic coated. Main system will be black and heat shields will be a dark grey color. Took it to a local place, turns out they use cerakote. The grey they called the dark grey "Tungsten". Should look cool I think. Found some stuff on McMaster to use to replace the foam stuff on the heat shields, it compresses more so may just line the front and back of the stock stuff with it.
Anyone have any tips for installing the manifold to the cylinders? Was hard to get a socket in the lowers to get them out, I'm worried putting them on will be even harder, and no access for torque wrench.
When I bent the trailing arm whatever I hit also tore up the ski, was going to just trim the torn part but it would just catch on stuff or send a snow stream up. So I bought a set of tuner skis, going to try Stud Boys 4.5" Shaper bars on inside, and OEM Yamaha wear bar only on outside.
Decided if I have time I'll disassemble and clean up the roller secondary mentioned in above posts, and get it all set. Won't put it on unless I end up with some time I can use for testing, will just keep the current clutch setup if I go on a few small rides which it seems is all I've been able to do the past few years (didn't get out at ALL last year)
Btw, the stock silencer is a heavy beast! Sounds like a bunch of weld slag or a small piece broke off inside of it when you shake it around, couldn't get it out but not too worried about it.
Here's what I'm going to try to use for the heat shield liners: https://www.mcmaster.com/93315k51
Replacement heat shield straps: https://www.mcmaster.com/6898k74
Replacement heat shield straps: https://www.mcmaster.com/6898k74
let us know how the tuners work for you. most guys on the 4 strokes run the carbides on the outside for best results for those that still run them.
shaggyzr2
Active member
On that aftermarket trailing arm....I would reinforce that little tab on top of the arm, steering stop. They all bend right away on the aftermarket arms. I welded a peice of 1/4" steel to the inside of it to make it stronger
Will do on the skis, I'm contemplating shimming them right away. I never did that on the stock skis but I'm kind of curious to leave them unshimmed and see how they do.
Thanks for the heads up on the trailing arm, one of the tabs for the radius rods was slightly bent from shipping already.
Thanks for the heads up on the trailing arm, one of the tabs for the radius rods was slightly bent from shipping already.
shaggyzr2
Active member
And another thing with the aftermarket arms....The paint they use on them is terrible....they rust fast and the paint will actually flake off, they dont even use primer on them. sandblast them, prime and use a good paint. They are super cheap compared to oem but there is a reason for that. lol
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Some Napas can mix up paint to put in rattle cans.
shaggyzr2
Active member
Yup...etching primer first, or epoxy primer.
Thanks for the heads up on the paint, will blast them with the other side.
Exhaust back from ceramic coating. Turned out really good, can still see pitting from the rust, but almost gives the manifold a textured look.
Front all blasted. Ended up needing to order new heims as these are pretty sloppy. Looks like there's going to be some eye-balling on the rotation of these, not sure how the manual expects you to get 4* off 90 accurately.
Front all blasted. Ended up needing to order new heims as these are pretty sloppy. Looks like there's going to be some eye-balling on the rotation of these, not sure how the manual expects you to get 4* off 90 accurately.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Plumb bob mabey??
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Your first ride w/ those pipes will be the final cure. Block off hood vents blowing on those pipes on the first ride. The final cure needs to be @ 1100*. Cold air blow onto those before final cure will cause peeling.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
If there is any ......"bulging" of the cover, mabey you could supplement it with 1 twisted up piece of stainless safety wire. Right around the center. Lay a piece of header wrap down first so as not to scratch the ceramic paint.
My safety wire pliers finally gave out after 30 years of use. I did find an acceptable replacement at Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45341.html
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That's a pretty good idea with the plumb bob, I actually picked one up recently for something else. Will give that a shot.
They did say the pipes will smell when they first get hot, but not that they need a final set cure, I'll block the vents. Thanks!
They did say the pipes will smell when they first get hot, but not that they need a final set cure, I'll block the vents. Thanks!