Pull-through prevention with pictures

T

the tree man

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Jan 13, 2008
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winnipeg,manitoba
This is a follow up to my previous posting regarding a metal sleeve in a power valve.

Pretty simple:

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(Caption: Original power valve)

1) Drill original power valve out to 3/16"

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(Caption: Power valve drilled out)

2) Drill the inside of a 3/16" steel line out to 9/64"

5331778860_46b0421359_b.jpg

(Caption: Steel line and drill bit)

3) Insert metal sleeve. You can use a Loctite product, if you want.

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(Caption: Inserting steel line into drilled-out power valve)

4) Saw off excess line

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5) Insert steel line and clean up so that it is flush with the curve of the power valve.

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(Caption: Steel line inserted and cleaned up)

See next post for the rest of the steps.
 

6) Cut cable slot with 1/32" zip wheel

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(Caption: Zip wheel after cutting cable slot through the metal sleeve)

7) Finished product! All done!

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cool i may give this a shot i repaired mine by just tig welding aluminu back on//// i may add the sleeve now too except i have some titanium and inconnel tubing i think i may use the titanium...
 
Nope.Not on Kiijiji.I also did this on a valve that had pulled almost completely through,hooked a fish scale to it after and pulled to 30 lbs no problem plus there ain,t no way the soft cable end will ever eat into steel.I took the pictures but my boy did the posting.Nice job,big pictures for the old farts with bad eyes.
 
This might need to go in the tech section! :)
Well done.
Now if someone could do this for cleaning the carbs on a viper, that would be amazing! Including how to take the carbs out!
 
Well done!!!

Straight forward.....

I love how you did it with common tools most PPL have in their garage!!!
 
YA THATS A GOOD IDEA but it wont last i have done some like this but it all comes down to the the valve top is still alumnium and will just pull the tube thru and since you are opening the hole it actually make the top weaker it will get you by in a bind but that about it
 
YA*AM*A*HEAD said:
YA THATS A GOOD IDEA but it wont last i have done some like this but it all comes down to the the valve top is still alumnium and will just pull the tube thru and since you are opening the hole it actually make the top weaker it will get you by in a bind but that about it
Click to expand...


Even after proper valve adjustment?

I've had one valve I found two years after I bought the sled new that hasn't changed regarding damage. The damage was caused by incorrect dealer/factory adjustment yet hasn't got any worse since I learned they need to be cleaned/adjusted regularly and started do so the third year of ownership.
 
No doubt your repair is better but what I've seen on my valves is the end of the cable doesn't have enough contact area.It doesn't spread the end open,that little nub wears a hole from constant movement in the soft material and that's why it pulls through.There is plenty of material for strength and the steel just spreads the load.This problem is so prevalent,Yamaha should have had an updated part within a couple model years.I know Cat and Skidoo use steel valves.I have a lot of miles on these with no problems.
 
That is fantastic. The cable doesn’t "pull through' it "wears through", I have been telling people that for a long time. I will bet that would work on a valve that already has damage. It would be worth it to buy a piece of steel brake line tubing from an auto part store for 2 dollars and fix your valves. Even if you have very limited mechanical abilities you could perform that fix with ease.
 
:rocks: :yam: :2strokes: :beer: :die: My pull through and what I thought this thread was going to be about was the cable pulling out of the nub on the end rather than the whole thing pulling out of my valve. I'm glad I read this though because I will be much more aware of this issue now and I am going to pull them and inspect them!
 
The only reason I even got into this was because I had replaced a valve that the blade had broken off with a new valve(to the tune of about $170.00 CA)and was watching that cylinder to see if the new one would fail.After about 200 miles I pulled it apart to find the cable was wormed into the valve and had a bear of a time getting it out.It was adjusted correctly and squeaky clean but the seal was really hard and I believe it was adding alot of drag.I realize there is no substitute for proper maintenance and if everthing is perfect there will be no problems.Ahhh....a perfect world.Not in my lifetime.These powervalves are under built for the environment they are expected to last in.I just think the steel gives gives a little forgiveness for less than perfect times.The stainless bolt is the best repair and a far better option than Yamaha.I would have sent mine in for this but was itching to get out on the snow.If there are any problems in the future the valve can still be repaired with the bolt.
 
Not sure if this has been mentioned but you can save yourself a lot of effort and just purchase SS tubing, rather then drill it out yourself. I found one with the correct dimensions at Smallparts.com in 36" length for 8$
 
I'm not professing this is the be all end all.Time will tell.By the end of this season there should be about 1000 miles on these and I'll post some pics how they look.So far so good.I have another spare valve that will get SS tubing and a little Loctite 609.I've had great luck with this stuff on zero fit or light press parts to keep them from loosening up.This last fix was a bit hurrried to get going for a weekend with odds and ends in the shop and like I mentioned you still have the option of a upgrade on the repair if there's a problem.Just out of curiousity I'll pull the valves a couple times for a look but I'm not going to clean them for the balance of the season so there's some goo in there and work those sleeves.
 
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