RE: Mountain Max Belt Problems

MountainMax

MountainMax

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RE: Mountain Max Belt Problems

Hey guys, im losing belts on my mmax700 alot, usually at wide open throttle, im using the stock 8DN ones and the center to center and offset are correct, I even have stiffer motor mounts and a torque stop on the engine, any ideas???? the belt always goes the same way, the top ribbed part seperates in peices from the main belt part which stays in tact, enough to drive home on but there are no ribs left on there. The only thing I can think of is im running an overdrive inner shieve on my Stock Yamaha Primary clutch, could this be pushing the belt too high?? Thanks for any input.........
 

I see this over and over with those overdrive sheaves. They Do NOTHING but kill belts. If you decide to put the stock sheave back on....set your belt side clearance when you have the clutch broke down. They come anywhere from .060-.100+ from the factory, I set my at .020 on my Mountain sled for an ultra smmoth engagement so it dont trench. Just my .02 ===SRXSRULE===
 
how do i adjust the side clearance, hey looks like you have a nitrous system on your srx, does it work good, i have a boondocker kit and can't get it to work worth a shit.
 
kinda funny how it comes back now....

I remember about a month ago, you saying "how great the overdrive sheave was" and "how much it helped your sled" and how it "didnt give you any problems "when I told someone they are JUNK!!! and "they blow belts!!!!!!", but hey, I leave the facts for the experts. Guess the 2 differnt angles on the sheaves doesnt seem to be workin too good huh? wonder what the problem could be.........
 
I remember the post and im not saying this is causing my problems, are you saying it probabaly is the cause? i can't see it being anything else, I said mine was good, and it is, i geared down and get good top speed but i have blown a few belts by delamination of the top layer is this the common problem with overdrive? if it is, i guess I will remove it......
 
not so quick...I have an overdrive and have had no belt problems...my question to you robert...is the belt very warm when this happens? is it a 44-1/2 length? what's running in the secondary and what type of cam?
 
Im running the stock shieves on bender roller roosterII 39/35 helix, 22/39 gears on 8t drivers, stock belt length and yes the belt is a bit warm, but i felt the shieves and they were not hot, just warm. the belt was broke in...... it only hapens at WOT too.
 
.... if your center to center is on the long side this could be one factor...and... here's a thought....the speed sheave forces the belt higher on the primary and the shallow angles along with the stock yammie secondary does'nt open all the way....at wot fully stretching the belt...? take someone else's non stock secondary and bolt it on and see ....i think you'll be surprised
 
As i stated above im running the Bender Roller Rooster 2 secondary, it opens up more (as do almost all aftermarket helix's) then stock so this should't affect it, but what you say could be correct if i had a stock helix. I know the inner shieve is at a different angle then the outter one, maybe MRVIPER is correct here and this could cause the belt to go off 90degrees and tear the top off. BUT I know a guy with a stock viper and he goes through about 3-4 belts a year also with the same complaint, top rib area delaminates from rest of the best, so...........Well im gonna take the sheive off and try it to see what hapens, just to be sure........
 
The sheave is the root of the problem, Been there, Done that. Go back to stock primary sheaves and the way you adjust side clearance is buy using aftermarket Split collars, OR machine the stock ones down to the size you want. Yes I run Nitrous on my 02 Mt Max. Its a boondockers kit that I customized and it kicks azz. I have run 30 and 45 hp shots with it and it just takes a little time to dial in the fuel mixture but once you do, your set. What problems are you having? ===SRXSRULE===
 
hmmmm....now I'm concerned...I run a sheave and have yet to experience a problem...should i get rid of it really...?

I wasnt speaking of the helix...but the hub of the secondary....many of the aftermarket complete clutches have a smaller inner diameter and dont fight the full shift out...
 
Thanks SRXRule, for adjusting the side clearance, can i machine the shieve without changing the collars? even a bit? as for my boondockers, i tried the single manifold 30Hp and it worked great, dialed it in, then was told to upgrade to the triple 50hp manifolds and ever since i cna't get it dialed in, it hits hard and then eventually bogs out in like 1-2 seconds, went from full in to full out on the manifold adjusters..... how did you modify yours?
any ideas on my bog????/
 
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