Rebmo
New member
Any leads out there on a starter kit for a 2001 SXR-700? My son now has my sled and it's in great condition and super reliable. I used to see starter kits out there but haven't been able to find one now that I'm looking. Reverse would be nice too, but hey, can't get too picky.
TIA for any leads,
Reb
TIA for any leads,
Reb
super1c
Super Moderator
Try and send a pm to viperking. He may be your best bet in off season. If not keep looking in the classifieds, as we get closer to winter they will pop up. Any e start from any proaction Sled will work, same with reverse. Just watch gearing with reverse.
Rebmo
New member
Thanks for the suggestion super1c,
Found a starter and reverse kit for the SXR-700. How does the battery get charged? is there a tie in to the harness that adds that function? The starter kit is used from another sled and has the starter, cables, battery holder, gear ring, so not sure how it will tie in to the magneto and charge the battery. Any help greatly appreciated.
Reb
Found a starter and reverse kit for the SXR-700. How does the battery get charged? is there a tie in to the harness that adds that function? The starter kit is used from another sled and has the starter, cables, battery holder, gear ring, so not sure how it will tie in to the magneto and charge the battery. Any help greatly appreciated.
Reb
super1c
Super Moderator
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/electric_start/electric_start_install.htm
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...-pics-please?highlight=electric start install
Here is A link to help you with starter. All proation sleds are prewired for e start and reverse, you just have to find the wires. It should be on the right hand side of the sled behind the cowel or near the coolant line. The harness will have a factory end with a red, black and red white wire if i remember right. You will most likley have to cut the factory end off and hardwire conection. Very straight forward just match the colors. Or you could order the correct patch cable for your sled from the harness to the relay. My install is on a viper but they are installed the same. If ya need more help then the 2 links PM me or just ask here. It really is a piece of cake. Those wires will take care of all charging. chris
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...-pics-please?highlight=electric start install
Here is A link to help you with starter. All proation sleds are prewired for e start and reverse, you just have to find the wires. It should be on the right hand side of the sled behind the cowel or near the coolant line. The harness will have a factory end with a red, black and red white wire if i remember right. You will most likley have to cut the factory end off and hardwire conection. Very straight forward just match the colors. Or you could order the correct patch cable for your sled from the harness to the relay. My install is on a viper but they are installed the same. If ya need more help then the 2 links PM me or just ask here. It really is a piece of cake. Those wires will take care of all charging. chris
Rebmo
New member
Awesome, Thanks for the info Super1c. I'm hoping to add a helmet plug and phone charger connection once I get the e-start & reverse kits installed. The SXR-700 is in really good shape with just over 3k on it and is perfect for my son. With a few mods it will be a even better sled and be easier to start and get on/off the trailer since I'm not getting any younger.
Thanks!
Reb
Thanks!
Reb
Rebmo
New member
Got the starter kit today form snowmoyard.com. Everything looks to be there including a fuse box. I ran through the install instructions, I now need to pull the sled in the garage and start looking over the connections for the ignition switch and fuse box. Hope to have it done by Fall as well as a reverse kit install. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep posted on the progress.
Rebmo
New member
Does anyone have pics for reference of a 2001 SX-700R fuse box plug in connection and/or the top of the battery/relay connection. Thanks!
super1c
Super Moderator
Not sure your Sled ever came with fuse box. Not sure it did till the newer 300 watt dual headlight ignition. Wiring for that may be tough if wires are not same colors anymore. But as stated in my link you don't really need it. I run one of my Vipers without. As far as top of relay. All the same. I can get you a pick later tonight if you can't find one sooner.
super1c
Super Moderator
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...tall-help-needed?highlight=Starter+relay+pics
Here is a really good link. Pics of wires going to relay on second page.
Here is a really good link. Pics of wires going to relay on second page.
edunn69
VIP Member
The fuse box goes on the clutch side above the secondary. The plug is behind the cowl by your left knee, unplug it and connect the 2 connectors from the new fuse box.
Rebmo
New member
Thanks edunn69, From what the link in post #9 from Super1C indicates is that the 2001 sx700r did have the fuse box. I'll have to pop the trailer and take a look again tomorrow and check for the connection. It looks (based on the male/female connectors on each of 2 cables coming out of it) like it just splices in at perhaps the point you suggest.
The reverse kit came today so it's time to pull the sled in the garage and get going. I think I'm going to do the chaincase cover/gear/chain mod first, then the starter motor mounting, and then the gearwheel. Last I'll sort out the electrical. I did find a 3 prong (sled harness connection by coolant tank) to a 4 prong connector (relay connection) cable for a 2001 sxr for $9.99 on ebay so I ordered that.
The starter relay has 2 30amp fuses, one on each side of the start/charge connector. The fuse box that came with the start kit is labeled 1 fuse rear lights, 1 fuse front lights, and 1 starter 30amp. So I may have the wrong relay for the 2001 application (with 2 30amp fuses in it) but it may work anyway. Soon we find out. Thanks for all the great references. Some I never saw doing the google search.
I'll post any pics that may add to the cause.
Reb
The reverse kit came today so it's time to pull the sled in the garage and get going. I think I'm going to do the chaincase cover/gear/chain mod first, then the starter motor mounting, and then the gearwheel. Last I'll sort out the electrical. I did find a 3 prong (sled harness connection by coolant tank) to a 4 prong connector (relay connection) cable for a 2001 sxr for $9.99 on ebay so I ordered that.
The starter relay has 2 30amp fuses, one on each side of the start/charge connector. The fuse box that came with the start kit is labeled 1 fuse rear lights, 1 fuse front lights, and 1 starter 30amp. So I may have the wrong relay for the 2001 application (with 2 30amp fuses in it) but it may work anyway. Soon we find out. Thanks for all the great references. Some I never saw doing the google search.
I'll post any pics that may add to the cause.
Reb
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Rebmo
New member
I received the "cable" that connects the harness to the solenoid 3 prong/wire to the 4 prong 3 wire. It doesn't look like I need the fuse box with this added cable although when I pull the sled off the trailer I'll check and see if it can be patched in on the left side. I also had to order the "beeper" for the reverse kit. I need to do some exploring to find the harness plugs for the beeper and reverse indicator 2 prong connection on the shifter. Hope to start digging in this weekend. Ongoing..........
Rebmo
New member
The fun has begun. Better now than when it's below freezing. Anyway, got the sled in the garage today and setup for the reverse kit and starter kit add. I pulled the primary clutch (which came off easy with a removal tool and impact). Pulled the muffler and exhaust, front engine mount bolts, drained the chaincase and removed the cover. I also installed found the harness cables tucked away and connected the DC beeper and found the 2 connections for the "reverse indicator" on the shift mechanism (that activates the beeper). So far so good. I tried the battery box and found the mounting holes and a bolt that fits in the mount holes so I need to get 2 of those.
Now I need to get to the hardware store and get some kerosene to clean up the new used chaincase and other parts being installed. I'm going to put the starter gear wheel on the primary clutch, install the starter and run the wiring (as long as the chaincase clearance is now maxed out with the cover off). Luckily the primary clutch popped right off and everything is coming apart easy. Over the next weeks I'll work to get the parts clean, installed and see if it all comes together. I saw some harness sockets above the secondary. As I move along I'll try to figure out the fuse box and if I'm going to install that. My son is really learning a lot so far and that's why this is happening.
He's been begging for electric start. I'll be happy with reverse added so it comes off the trailer easier. He's 13 going on 14 & just got his certification last Dec. Last year we pulled the skid and rebuilt it (pressed on new wheels, and replaced seals bushings etc.. and replaced the slides). He'll be a pro soon.
Thanks for the tips, I'll post back with progress.
Now I need to get to the hardware store and get some kerosene to clean up the new used chaincase and other parts being installed. I'm going to put the starter gear wheel on the primary clutch, install the starter and run the wiring (as long as the chaincase clearance is now maxed out with the cover off). Luckily the primary clutch popped right off and everything is coming apart easy. Over the next weeks I'll work to get the parts clean, installed and see if it all comes together. I saw some harness sockets above the secondary. As I move along I'll try to figure out the fuse box and if I'm going to install that. My son is really learning a lot so far and that's why this is happening.
He's been begging for electric start. I'll be happy with reverse added so it comes off the trailer easier. He's 13 going on 14 & just got his certification last Dec. Last year we pulled the skid and rebuilt it (pressed on new wheels, and replaced seals bushings etc.. and replaced the slides). He'll be a pro soon.
Thanks for the tips, I'll post back with progress.
super1c
Super Moderator
The fun has begun. Better now than when it's below freezing. Anyway, got the sled in the garage today and setup for the reverse kit and starter kit add. I pulled the primary clutch (which came off easy with a removal tool and impact). Pulled the muffler and exhaust, front engine mount bolts, drained the chaincase and removed the cover. I also installed found the harness cables tucked away and connected the DC beeper and found the 2 connections for the "reverse indicator" on the shift mechanism (that activates the beeper). So far so good. I tried the battery box and found the mounting holes and a bolt that fits in the mount holes so I need to get 2 of those.
Now I need to get to the hardware store and get some kerosene to clean up the new used chaincase and other parts being installed. I'm going to put the starter gear wheel on the primary clutch, install the starter and run the wiring (as long as the chaincase clearance is now maxed out with the cover off). Luckily the primary clutch popped right off and everything is coming apart easy. Over the next weeks I'll work to get the parts clean, installed and see if it all comes together. I saw some harness sockets above the secondary. As I move along I'll try to figure out the fuse box and if I'm going to install that. My son is really learning a lot so far and that's why this is happening.
He's been begging for electric start. I'll be happy with reverse added so it comes off the trailer easier. He's 13 going on 14 & just got his certification last Dec. Last year we pulled the skid and rebuilt it (pressed on new wheels, and replaced seals bushings etc.. and replaced the slides). He'll be a pro soon.
Thanks for the tips, I'll post back with progress.
awesome! Glad to hear your sons involved also, keep the updates comming.
Rebmo
New member
Update.............
My son is helping but not liking it today. They had a sleepover and basketball practice and he was ready to pass out while working on the sled today..........
Starter is in and wires back to where the battery case will go ready for hookup when battery box is installed (after reverse kit install is complete). Primary Clutch back on and belt, belt guard back in place. Hooked up the cable connecting the ignition switch to the starter relay (3 wires) and hooked up the battery (with kill switch on) and the motor cranked over great when turning the key to start position. I'm waiting for 2 screws to mount the reverse drive gear set bracket so need to get the drive, driven, and reverse drive gear set installed when the screws arrive. Motor mounts back
Also, I found the front clutch side exhaust manifold bolt laying in the pan. There was a lot of oil (as expected) around that area of the manifold and in the engine compartment. I re-installed it as well as checking the others. A few nearby were slightly loose. I sometimes had thought the sled was louder than it should be so this may well have been the issue. There was a noticeable manifold/block gap which is now closed with the bolt re-installed.
Question:
1) When putting things back, I forgot the lock washer for the primary clutch bolt. I had done the 2 step torqueing and put the belt on. I then realized I forgot the lock washer. So I pulled the primary clutch bolt, added the lock washer, and re-torqued the primary clutch bolt and the lower 42.5 ft./lbs. Is that OK to do with the belt on as long as I had done the high torque 85.7 set on the taper previously? Or, do I need to pull the belt and start over with the 2 step torque on the primary clutch bolt? My concern is that it may be misaligned and vibrate or is it not an issue?
It's so nice working on these projects in warm weather.
Thanks for any help/suggestions! Reb
My son is helping but not liking it today. They had a sleepover and basketball practice and he was ready to pass out while working on the sled today..........
Starter is in and wires back to where the battery case will go ready for hookup when battery box is installed (after reverse kit install is complete). Primary Clutch back on and belt, belt guard back in place. Hooked up the cable connecting the ignition switch to the starter relay (3 wires) and hooked up the battery (with kill switch on) and the motor cranked over great when turning the key to start position. I'm waiting for 2 screws to mount the reverse drive gear set bracket so need to get the drive, driven, and reverse drive gear set installed when the screws arrive. Motor mounts back
Also, I found the front clutch side exhaust manifold bolt laying in the pan. There was a lot of oil (as expected) around that area of the manifold and in the engine compartment. I re-installed it as well as checking the others. A few nearby were slightly loose. I sometimes had thought the sled was louder than it should be so this may well have been the issue. There was a noticeable manifold/block gap which is now closed with the bolt re-installed.
Question:
1) When putting things back, I forgot the lock washer for the primary clutch bolt. I had done the 2 step torqueing and put the belt on. I then realized I forgot the lock washer. So I pulled the primary clutch bolt, added the lock washer, and re-torqued the primary clutch bolt and the lower 42.5 ft./lbs. Is that OK to do with the belt on as long as I had done the high torque 85.7 set on the taper previously? Or, do I need to pull the belt and start over with the 2 step torque on the primary clutch bolt? My concern is that it may be misaligned and vibrate or is it not an issue?
It's so nice working on these projects in warm weather.
Thanks for any help/suggestions! Reb
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super1c
Super Moderator
It will be fine. First torque sets the clutch on the tapered crank end. Second torque is for clutch bolt. I wouldn't recommend it but once set on crank you could run it without bolt even in.
Rebmo
New member
It will be fine. First torque sets the clutch on the tapered crank end. Second torque is for clutch bolt. I wouldn't recommend it but once set on crank you could run it without bolt even in.
Thanks Super1c, Just wanted to be sure.
shaggyzr2
Active member
The fun has begun. Better now than when it's below freezing. Anyway, got the sled in the garage today and setup for the reverse kit and starter kit add. I pulled the primary clutch (which came off easy with a removal tool and impact). Pulled the muffler and exhaust, front engine mount bolts, drained the chaincase and removed the cover. I also installed found the harness cables tucked away and connected the DC beeper and found the 2 connections for the "reverse indicator" on the shift mechanism (that activates the beeper). So far so good. I tried the battery box and found the mounting holes and a bolt that fits in the mount holes so I need to get 2 of those.
Now I need to get to the hardware store and get some kerosene to clean up the new used chaincase and other parts being installed. I'm going to put the starter gear wheel on the primary clutch, install the starter and run the wiring (as long as the chaincase clearance is now maxed out with the cover off). Luckily the primary clutch popped right off and everything is coming apart easy. Over the next weeks I'll work to get the parts clean, installed and see if it all comes together. I saw some harness sockets above the secondary. As I move along I'll try to figure out the fuse box and if I'm going to install that. My son is really learning a lot so far and that's why this is happening.
He's been begging for electric start. I'll be happy with reverse added so it comes off the trailer easier. He's 13 going on 14 & just got his certification last Dec. Last year we pulled the skid and rebuilt it (pressed on new wheels, and replaced seals bushings etc.. and replaced the slides). He'll be a pro soon.
Thanks for the tips, I'll post back with progress.
You really shouldn't be using an impact on that clutch, could do some damage. Here is an easy way to remove the clutch, alot of guys on here do it this way. Pull the bolt out, pack the hole with grease then thread your puller into the clutch, the grease adds hydrolic pressure and the clutch pops off easily.
Rebmo
New member
You really shouldn't be using an impact on that clutch, could do some damage. Here is an easy way to remove the clutch, alot of guys on here do it this way. Pull the bolt out, pack the hole with grease then thread your puller into the clutch, the grease adds hydrolic pressure and the clutch pops off easily.
Thanks shaggyzr2, I'll try that method for any future clutch removals.
Question, I have some synthetic Blend 90W-75 gear lube. Is it OK to use that for the chaincase? The reason I'm asking is that I read most folks use synthetic 90w-75 or ATF. Any advice on this?
super1c
Super Moderator
As long as you change it once a year you can use almost anything, That will be fine. I use mobile one synthetic on mine or the amsoil. Which ever one is cheapest at the time.