Still need help----I have several different opinions on whether a V-max4 uses a different clutch puller due to the clutch being on the jackshaft. Also yamaha puller for this model is supposedly a 2 pc puller --anyone have experince with a 2 pc puller?
Does VMax 800 use diff clutch puller?
- Thread starter uperjim
- Start date
No it does not, I use the same puller on my 1997 700SX, 1996 600XT and 92 & 96 Vmax-4's.
I have used a two piece puller (oem Yamaha) it worked good until to much pressure blew the grease out the side of it - I got a Hardened one from Maxx Perf (works great)
I have used a two piece puller (oem Yamaha) it worked good until to much pressure blew the grease out the side of it - I got a Hardened one from Maxx Perf (works great)
onrof
New member
I use the same pulley's for all yamaha's after 92, vmax 750, 800, sx, xtc, srx rx1. two piece puller broke on me to after many uses, one piece still together.
Why would my good hardened 1 pc puller bottom out and start to bugger the 2 lead threads before the clutch popped off? The yammie dealer here who is less than reliable says it takes a special puller. What do you mean it blew the grease out the side??
The 2 pc puller has grease inside of it (it comes unassembled - 2 pcs plus a special grease that goes in before you install the solid shaft into the hollow shaft) The Maxx Perf puller bottoms out against the PTO snout, it does not go inside of it. As for the grease blowing out the side - the puller could not handle the torque so something had to give.
800
New member
the problem is there ARE 2 different pullers. THe thread is the same but the depth of the hole in the crank/output shaft is different. The older sleds required 2 different length pullers. Most later sleds use the same puller so all aftermarket one piece pullers are copies of the longer Yamaha puller. My 01 500 requiers the short puller. Thats why you pulled the first 2 threads in your clutch. The long puller only catches 2 threads when you use it where a short puller is needed. Because you don't have enough thread engagement when you put pressure on it, it pops the first couple threads out. Now you need to tap the clutch. Take your long puller and grind about 3/8 of an inch off the end as well as take the first thread off it, see if you can get it started in the clutch. If not go find yourself an 18mm/1.5 tap.
ok---I am learning here but my puller actually went in to far----it did not pull the threads due to only having a couple engaged. I think it went in too far and the threads may have bottomed on the jackshaft face since they are larger DIA. than the threaded clutch bolt hole. They wewren't too bad as I was able to back the puller back out with my impact and i cleaned up the threads. It would not pull the clutch though. The only other explanation might be that the last few threads in the clutch itself are buggered up. The puller threaded by hand almost to where the puller hex was contacting the clutch face ---this is what leads me to believe that the jackshaft hole is a little deeper on the 800's. I didn't hurt the jackshaft thread at all either cause the clutch bolt went right back in by hand too.
By the way does anyone use a clutch holder for torqueing---dealer claims that no dealer would ever torque these clutch bolts they all run the bolts in with air and stall out the driver for a second and call it good. Any opinions?????
By the way does anyone use a clutch holder for torqueing---dealer claims that no dealer would ever torque these clutch bolts they all run the bolts in with air and stall out the driver for a second and call it good. Any opinions?????
800
New member
If you buried the puller in and didn't pull the clutch then you have just the opposite situation. You have a short one and need a long one.