1989 Exciter 570 LC

R

russiankid

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Oct 31, 2015
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Hey guys, new to the forum and new to sledding in general. Hopefully I am posting in the correct section. I recently acquired an 89 Exciter 570 as my first sled. The sled has 1,000 miles on it and the PO has recently replaced the cooling hoses and track on it, picked it up for $600. The sled runs great, fires up on the second pull and everything seems to be in working order. I have been reading up a lot about these sleds and my research has lead me to this forum as it has the most amount of information I was seeking for.

A lot of info I found was that the 87's had a butterfly style carburetors, which was later switched over to slide carbs, and then later on the needles were switched over. My question is how do I determine whether or not I should be concerned about running lean when going from WOT to idle? It does not have decompression valves and I am sure it has the slide style carbs.
 
All you have to do do is verify the jetting if you are concerned. I have seen more burn downs due to bad crankseals on Exciters in recent years vs. poor jetting.
 
Is there an easy way to confirm the jetting aside from pulling the carbs off? As for the crank seals, everything appears to be dry on the motor, but not sure if there would be any evident signs of bad seals. Sorry for all the dumb questions, I come from a car world. I've owned some jet ski's that I have swapped motors and parted out but sleds are a whole new world to me.
 
Thanks for the help. It looks like the air box is a bit of a pain to remove just to get the carbs out. I think I'll wait till we get some snow and see how it does before I tear into it.
 
You dont need to remove the air box to get the carbs out. All you have to do is remove the three bolts that hold it in so you have some wiggle room.
 
Thanks for the tip. Another question I had was the oil filter under the oil tank. How often should they be replaced? Doubt this one has ever been touched and wondering whether or not I should change it and then deal with bleeding the lines, but at the same time would I even need to bleed the lines considering how close the filter is to the tank?
 
I always err on the side of caution and do crank-seals! Its cheap insurance on a used sled that you don't know and even on one you do that is getting on in years. First outing, run a can of sea-foam in the gas tank which should help clean up the carbs, then check the color of your plugs a few times to see what it is doing. Check them both as a difference in color between them can tell the tale. If its off, its not that difficult to take the carbs off and check the jets. The oil filter should be okay, but not a bad idea to change it on a sled you don't know. You'd be surprised at the crud I have found in oil tanks. The filters are cheap but a restriction in oil flow could be expensive.
 
Definatley need
To bleed the lines if u replace the oil filter And as got wood indicated. Good idea to pull the oil tank too and wash it out at the same Time. I parted out 3 Exciters recently and all of them had a bunch of the tin foil seals on the top of the injection oil bottles at the pick up line inlet in the oil tank . I pull every oil tank now and clean them out.


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the oil filters are just a metal screen if you are concerned pull it and clean it ...unless there was some crap put in the oil tank it should be just fine ......yes pull the carbs and verify jetting ...also at the age of the sled it is time for crank seals just to be safe .....
 
yamaha nutz said:
the oil filters are just a metal screen if you are concerned pull it and clean it ...unless there was some crap put in the oil tank it should be just fine ......yes pull the carbs and verify jetting ...also at the age of the sled it is time for crank seals just to be safe .....
Click to expand...

x-2!!
 
Thanks for the advice. I pulled the air box out, which was not as hard as I read it was. I ended up just taking the box apart and wiggled it out, took me 10 minutes. I replaced all the oil lines and T-fittings just to be safe. I pulled the carbs apart and cleaned them out as well. The main jet had the number 3 stamped on it, not sure if that means anything. As for the crank seals, I don't think I'll be tearing into that this season but definitely will keep it in mind.
 
If I'm not mistaken, you have to pull the engine and split the crank to do the seals. The seals are cheap and the its just basically labor. If you don't do them all your other work could wind up being for not if it burns down. Then what you got?
 
Then I have a blown up sled that I spent $600 on and I'll rebuild the motor. I understand the importance of crank seals but I am sure it'll be fine, don't fix if it ain't broke :P.

But in other news, I got the sled back together and running. Priming the oil pump was cake, I just threw some premixed fuel in the tank and let it idle with the pump wide open.
 
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