Bought two triples, stored for 4 years- advice?

Chris_In_VT

Chris_In_VT

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Nov 2, 2015
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18
Location
NEK Vermont
Hey all, new to the TY forums although I've gotten information here before.
I previously owned a 1999 SRX700. It had 12,000 miles on it when I sold it and would still crack 100mph without breaking a sweat, great sled. Anyways, I went back to college, and sold the sled because I didn't have time or money to ride it.
Fast forward to now- sold an old pickup truck I wasn't ever going to restore, had a bit of extra cash, so I started looking for a pair of sleds for my fiancee and I to ride this winter. Found a 1999 SX600 Vmax and a 2000 SRX700 within my price range. Checked them out, they looked decent, good even compression on all 6 cylinders, a few small issues but nothing too bad I don't think. They've been stored inside for the last 4 years without being started.

I repair and tinker on 2 stroke OPE as a hobby (chainsaws mostly) so I know what the crap gasoline we have these days does to fuel systems. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but not that snowmobile savvy.
I haven't tried to start them yet. I know the carbs will need a thorough cleaning, I'm confident I can handle that (did my 1999 srx a couple times).

My big question is, what else should I be concerned about bringing these sleds out of 4 years of storage?
Fuel line and filter sound good, but what about other things? Should I change the coolant out for new? Oil?

Any tips on good places to get parts (fuel line, filter, etc. etc) are appreciated too. I know a bunch of good websites for saw parts, but I haven't done alot with snowmobiles.

I'll probably have more questions once I dive into them (Differences on the 600 layout, plus I think the 600 has a broken speedometer cable)

Thanks alot!

Chris
 
I'd be checking out all the important seals for leaks. You would hate to run them raw creating damage when it could be avoided. Personally I wouldn't count on anything working right till I eliminate each potential disaster. That engine will be as dry as a popcorn fart.
Took me 2 hours to go over a 340 bravo that was in storage for 10 years before I was comfortable starting it. Turned out to be in great shape and started without issues.
 
I would change all the fluids and lines and would change the gaskets as they are most likely dried out now. Don't want to risk a burn down..
 
Broken speedo cable is often the bearing on the drive shaft. Speedo stops everybody thinks broken cable.
 
Yuck. I've never dove that far into a sled before, how bad/expensive is that bearing to replace?
Sounds like I might want to tackle the 600 first.

Any ideas where to get parts like fuel lines or gaskets? Am I stuck ordering from the dealer?
 
Bearing on the clutch side is 25$ ish for good one and in the chain case is about 7$ for a good one plus a 3$ seal .
Baught most of it at my local bearing supplier. There are cheaper variation of bearings but they are made in China.
 
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Yeah I did a little searching on the topic. Doesn't sound too daunting now that I understand it a bit more. Hopefully the bearing isn't seized onto the shaft and I can get it off without too much disassembly.
I'm sure I can handle most any snowmobile repairs, it can just be a little overwhelming the first time you tear down something new.
 
Probably just the speedo key. It's about 1.5" long and very thin, it usually snaps and that's why your speedo fails...normally. Once you pull the bearing cover off underneath the secondary you'll know right away if it's broken. Empty fuel tanks completely, clean carbs thoroughly, you'll probably want genuine Yamaha gaskets. Check carb boots for cracks on both sides of carbs, change chaincase oil...only $5, there's lots of other things to look for! Take your time and ask questions if you don't know. Plenty of good guys on here that will help out. Welcome to the site!
 
were they fogged when stored? or at least ran out of gas? assuming they are full of gas with your line of questions
 
Cooper0809 said:
Probably just the speedo key. It's about 1.5" long and very thin, it usually snaps and that's why your speedo fails...normally. Once you pull the bearing cover off underneath the secondary you'll know right away if it's broken. Empty fuel tanks completely, clean carbs thoroughly, you'll probably want genuine Yamaha gaskets. Check carb boots for cracks on both sides of carbs, change chaincase oil...only $5, there's lots of other things to look for! Take your time and ask questions if you don't know. Plenty of good guys on here that will help out. Welcome to the site!
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Thanks! I'll add chaincase oil to the list. I will definitely check over the boots, seen enough cracked intake boots on saws cause burndowns.
I'm hoping for just the speedo key, but planning for the bearings.
I'm gonna do one sled at a time, and yes, take my time. Seems like a friendly place here, I'll ask away.
 
03viperguy said:
were they fogged when stored? or at least ran out of gas? assuming they are full of gas with your line of questions
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I don't think they were fogged when stored. Fuel tanks are full, said they put stabil in, for what that's worth. I'll definitely be draining all the old fuel out first thing.
 
I'd be surprised if you could light a fire with that fuel! Lol ya you might as well do the drive bearings...for what it's worth, it's peace of mind!
 
if it was fogged, everything should be good. clean your carbs, maybe change the coolant if you want and run it. oil generally doesn't have a shelf life like gasoline, so it should be fine. i would re pack the upper jack shaft bearing and inspect the lower one for rough spots/ rust. if everything checks out, re pack it and hold on!


edit: just noticed you did not fog them.... i would be more worried about rusty crank bearings than dried seals. you have nothing to loose, might as well run them. seeing as they were inside, im willing to bet they are fine.
 
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If you get into changing the gas lines one thing to remember is they are actually metric ( 7mm ID ) lines.Many people have used 1/4" line before,and I'm one of them,but ended up taking it back off because it doesn't fit as tight as the correct stuff.I actually had one carb line so loose I lost about a half tank of gas or more from it just pumping out past the barb on the carb body.There is the odd vendor out there that stocks metric fuel line,VW dealers for one,but I ended up ordering new ones from the dealer,they are precut the right length so it's a simple install.
 
Thanks for the tip on the fuel lines being metric, I'll remember that.

Is there any way to tell if the crank bearings are rusty without a teardown?
What's the actual probability of the bearings having rusted, sitting indoors for 4 years?

I haven't got a chance to tear into them yet. Hopefully this weekend I can get them moved from the barn where they are now and into a garage where I can actually work on them, and they'll remain there throughout the season. Days are so short now I can't rely on daylight, I already leave and come back home in the dark as it is.
First thing I'm gonna do is check out that drive bearing on the 600.
 
if the crank bearings are rusty you are in for a new crank anyways. i would run it and find out, nothing to lose really.
 
I wouldn't worry about crank bearings. I have pulled some old sleds out of the bushes with near perfect bearings. I would just focus on lines, gaskets, and maybe seals..

Give it all its got if its gonna tear up it will the first day of 2..
 
Alright, finally got a chance to get into these sleds a little bit (got them into the garage).
The srx has a blown drive bearing. It's gone. The 600's bearing appears ok, but the speedo cable was broken.
On the 700, since the bearing was that bad, is the chain case side toast too?
I'll probably do both on both sleds. It'll be a learning experience for sure.
Time to order some parts. Bearing kit x2, anything else I'll need doing this?
 
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