I have read some different threads. I have 2 exact sleds I purchased recently they sat for quite a few years. I pulled the carbs and soaked and cleaned them got one running and seems to run pretty well have been trying to get the other one running but not getting any spark.
This is what I have done so far. Both sleds are identical.
1: switched out C.D.I still no good but works on running sled so C.D.I is good.
2: switched out ignition coil still no spark works on running sled coil is good
3: tested ohms on pulser coil on the running sled and the one with no spark they are the same
4: tested kill switch have continuity when pressed no continuity so it checks good
5: bypassed tors switch on carberator
I have read there is a T.O.R.S switch in the thumb throttle would that keep it from starting everything I have read says it is a rev limiter.
Is it running on a normally closed or normally open circuit
I would really appreciate any help or ideas anything at all would be helpful. Thanks
This is what I have done so far. Both sleds are identical.
1: switched out C.D.I still no good but works on running sled so C.D.I is good.
2: switched out ignition coil still no spark works on running sled coil is good
3: tested ohms on pulser coil on the running sled and the one with no spark they are the same
4: tested kill switch have continuity when pressed no continuity so it checks good
5: bypassed tors switch on carberator
I have read there is a T.O.R.S switch in the thumb throttle would that keep it from starting everything I have read says it is a rev limiter.
Is it running on a normally closed or normally open circuit
I would really appreciate any help or ideas anything at all would be helpful. Thanks
There is Zero spark... are you sure you have a good chassis ground.
snowdad4
VIP Member
how did you test resistance on the pule coil? you need to have the correct wire combo for this to be somewhat accurate. i can get you that if needed.
throttle switch will have continuity when the thumb lever is pressed, no continuity untouched, on two given wires. black and black/yellow i believe. on your stop switch, you should have continuity when on(pulled up) and none when depressed. usually black to black/white.
all things being equal, i would suspect a bad stator or rusted flywheel, for starters. ground is always a possibility and you can easily make a temp from a head bolt down to the frame to rule that out.
throttle switch will have continuity when the thumb lever is pressed, no continuity untouched, on two given wires. black and black/yellow i believe. on your stop switch, you should have continuity when on(pulled up) and none when depressed. usually black to black/white.
all things being equal, i would suspect a bad stator or rusted flywheel, for starters. ground is always a possibility and you can easily make a temp from a head bolt down to the frame to rule that out.
I did test the kill switch and the and the throttle switch as the manual said I downloaded a manual I tested the pulser coil according to the manual both sleds were exactly the same I was thinking about that today when I was checking the switches if something might be grounded out since the switches are normally open and as for stator should I pull it and clean it.
yamahamark
Member
Check the ground, clean the fly wheel and stator. Check to make sure plug wires are good. Also check that cdi box is good and I would check the regulator to make sure it's not bad.
I know the cdi is good and the coil for the plugs I have swapped those around where is the regulator is that piece up front that looks like a heat sink I have two sleds so I can interchange parts easily to eliminate things I will definitely pull the stator and clean everything on Friday expecting snow tonight never a good day when its my days off. I really appreciate all the good advice these are my first sleds I wanted something to pull my ice fishing gear with.
yamahamark
Member
Should look like this and is usually located some where around the foot well but I'm not positive.
Someone on here might know the exact location.
Someone on here might know the exact location.
Thanks I will take a look and see what I can find is it hard to pull the flywheel.
yamahamark
Member
Having some upload issues right now but it is a small sliver looking box about an inch by inch shouldn't be too hard to find. It may be the problem. It was on my 87 phazer.
yamahamark
Member
No its easy just need a good flywheel puller
Awesome thanks so much I have been a mechanic most of my life but never worked on 2 stroke stuff like motorcycle or snowmobile but I am learning I will pull it on Friday and see how it goes. Thanks Again
I was looking at the manual it shows up by where the battery tray is that's easy enough to swap out from one to the other if not pull the flywheel and check the stator
I looked at the manual I have it on a thumb drive it looks like it is right by the battery tray easy enough to swap out and try if not will have to move on to the stator. I will pull the stator on Friday if the regulator does not work. Thanks I will let you know what happens and thanks for the advice. I have been a mechanic for a lot of years just never worked on any 2 stroke stuff.
caravanman
New member
When I lost spark on my 96 XT I was in the same boat as you, I swapped all the parts I could with my other running sled.
The stator ohm tested just fine but it was reason I had no spark.
The stator ohm tested just fine but it was reason I had no spark.
I swapped out the regulator today its fine checked the ohms on the stator for both machines and they are both the same but it still could be bad may go ahead and pull it tomorrow. I have read that they can be a real pain in the *** to get off. I also checked the ground seems to be fine. The stator cost about as much as the machine is worth. Anyone have any other ideas.
yamahamark
Member
Have you tried disconnecting the kill switch and ignition switch.
yamahamark
Member
If I'm thinking right your sled should be equipped with tors if it does try disconnecting it and see what happens..
I have the carb switch bypassed and have ohmed the kill switch and throttle switch they all seem to work fine according to the manual. I have read a lot of people having problems with them I am thinking about putting a tether kill switch and bypassing the tors system but I still want some safety. I did get the stator out it was not the worst job but it was interesting and yes they do use red Loctite on the phillips screws which will not be going back in will use socket allen heads. As for the stator it looks good no rubbed through wires a little discoloration on the starting coils but I would think there would be some with the heat. I hope this picture uploads so everyone can see it.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I remember reading posts that suggest spraying a coat of clear onto the freshly polished stator & related components.
yamahamark
Member
Might be bad stator. That one don't look to good looks burnt.