I took a good look at the track of my '98 SRX and it has been due for replacement for a few years now. It's the .910 lug Camo that's called the Trail I think now,I want to put a Carve on this sled the same as my '01. I'm pretty impressed with the traction of that design,it just seems to work in the snow conditions we have here. Anyway I'll be sticking with a 1" lug so I can stud the track because I don't feel like getting into changing the drivers to 8's. I've been looking at the prices lately and I have to wonder why can I buy a 1 1/4" lug cheaper than a 1"? And this leads me to my real question; has anyone taken a 1/4" off a taller lug track to make it 1" without affecting the overall handling traits or structure of the track?
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i have cut many track lugs down to suit my needs. in my experience, i have never experienced anything negative, when correctly done. the important part of the equation is removing equal material from each lug to maintain somewhat of a balance.
i came up with a slick method years ago for lug cutting using a sawsall. take a metal cutting blade or two, tpi doesnt matter, and sharpen the back side on your grinder to almost a knife like blade. a 4" works best, but if your handy, you can make a 6 or 8" play. make yourself a jig and clamp it to the track. in your case, a piece of 1" square stock will work well. c-clamps, spring clamps, quick clamps, you get the idea. clamp the jug between the lugs and square off with your new track cutting blade and some wd 40. i run two blades so one can be in use while one is being sharpened again.
some tracks will have reinforcements at the base of the lugs, but in your case most likely not. reason i mention it is because it can "rock" your jig slightly and angle your cuts. in other words, make sure your jug is flat with the track.
i came up with a slick method years ago for lug cutting using a sawsall. take a metal cutting blade or two, tpi doesnt matter, and sharpen the back side on your grinder to almost a knife like blade. a 4" works best, but if your handy, you can make a 6 or 8" play. make yourself a jig and clamp it to the track. in your case, a piece of 1" square stock will work well. c-clamps, spring clamps, quick clamps, you get the idea. clamp the jug between the lugs and square off with your new track cutting blade and some wd 40. i run two blades so one can be in use while one is being sharpened again.
some tracks will have reinforcements at the base of the lugs, but in your case most likely not. reason i mention it is because it can "rock" your jig slightly and angle your cuts. in other words, make sure your jug is flat with the track.
That's a pretty good tip about using the back side of a recip saw blade sharpened like a knife,thanks.There's so many options for 1 1/4" tracks but not for 1",I even thought about the new Ripsaw 2 and cutting it down,it just looks like a design that would work great in my neck of the woods.
super1c
Super Moderator
Did u look into the ultimate traction 1" lug and predrilled for studs. Great track, good price and hooks nice. I ran one on my viper and I know bluemonster runs one on his Srx and really likes it.
No I hadn't thought about that track but I'll add it to the list.
roudyroy1
Active member
you can purchase a rubber cutting iron that will make light work of it. i like this method since it melts instead of forcing a cut.
devinzz1
Active member
X2 for the kimpex track.
Sheet rock blade and two pieces of 1in band iron.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Found a guy here in NB with a studded Carve for sale for a really decent price so I guess I don't need to cut down a track now but if I hadn't found this one I would've probably cut down a Ripsaw or maybe even a RS 2,depending on what kind of price I could get on a track.