96 600cc VMax starts on one cylinder

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kaymcc

New member
Joined
Nov 15, 2015
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6
Location
Kirkland Lake Ontario Canada
I'm a new member here from Northern Ontario so bear with me if I make mistakes. The VMax runs on one cylinder (clutch side) when cold and when idling unless I use the choke. Goes like a bat in the field without the choke on (no snow here yet). What I've tried so far. Swapped fuel lines to carbs, cleaned carb, checked reed valves, new plugs, compression test roughly 110 each cylinder (didn't do leak down test). I keep thinking gas trouble but the plug is wet when I pull it out (starter side) and there is a healthy spark. Did I miss something cleaning the carb (wish I had an ultrasonic cleaner)? Think I'll try adjusting what I call the low speed or idle jet that is underneath facing up. Can't see it but with a mirror and stubby I'll try. I did return it to original setting after cleaning. Might swap carbs today to see if trouble follows. Could it be electrical at lower revs? Swapping the fuel lines sort of rules out the pump. Typing this I think I'll check the vacuum lines more thoroughly. I've never done a leak down test. Is it # of lbs lost per a certain amount of time? Also does anybody know what to torque the reed valve cage bolts to? They seemed pretty light to me when I took them off.
 
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You were right. All's well. I took it apart and this time I used my glasses and a brighter light and cleaned the jet again. Had to drill it. It sucks getting old. It was cold in the garage and I was impatient. What threw me was the fact that I had spark and the plug was wet when I pulled it when cold. I suppose the cylinder wasn't getting enough fuel. Still looking for a used cleaner. I don't think people have jewelery up here or maybe the cleaner doesn't work well with costume jewelery. Unusual weather again this year. Had some snow (3") last week but supposed to rain today. Usually the snow comes and stays at the end of October. Past couple of years the groomed trails haven't been opening until mid January. This is starting to tick people off who are buying trail passes for full price but getting a season thats roughly 1 and a half months shorter. Thx again.
 
kaymcc,

On a 2 stroke motor, I doubt a leak down test will tell you anything different than a compression test. If the engine is good, it will test good with either method. "Couple of bucks" gave good advice on the pilot jet.

I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I use for carbs, but it's mostly for cleaning the carb bodies. If the brass jets are dirty/plugged, I soak them in Berrymans carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air. I buy Berrymans at the local auto parts store in a gallon can. The gallon can includes a little basket to hold the parts while soaking. 5-20 minutes in berrymans is all it takes.
 
Shouldn't use a drill to clean jets. That can alter the size. All I've ever done is spray them out with carb cleaner. Jammed the red straw in the jet and sprayed. Maybe soaked them for a little bit before. Use something soft like copper wire to clean the jets, not a drill or torch bits that can increase the size of the jets.
 
Yup never want to use drills or welding tip cleaners on jets it will alter the size. If it's that plugged replace it because there's a chance you won't get it all out anyways. Jets are cheap a burnt down engine gets a little pricey.
 
I should redeem myself. I didn't actually take a power drill and drill it out. I used my fingers with an undersized bit and gently cleaned it. I know jets are cheap but I live roughly 60 miles from the nearest source which may or may not have them and it would cost about $40 in gas with my full size 4x4 so I thought what the heck and cleaned the jet. I've tried different types of carb cleaners available up here but nothing really seemed to work. Anyway, finally got about 8" of snow last night. Not enough for the bush but enough to bomb around the fields.
 
I want to defend myself. Everybody is getting mad at me for using a drill. I didn't actually drill it out. I used an undersized bit with my fingers and was very carefull. I know jets are cheap but there isn't a local dealer around here and it would be a $50 round trip to get one IF they have it. So I thought what the heck and used a bit.
Now I'm trying to figure out why my kill switch isn't working. I unplugged the two wire connector that's under the handlebar pad and shorted the pins with a screwdriver and the engine didn't die like I thought it would. The harness disappears under the engine somewhere. Where is the other ends of those two wires? I noticed that the TORS switch has been disabled over the years by somebody. Is it related to the kill switch? I plugged the TORS in and the engine wouldn't rev up and the kill switch still didn't work. Would I have a bad TORS switch and kill switch?
 
Sounds like a bad kill switch.
The tors keeps the sled from randomly taking off if something goes wrong. If your going to plug it back in make sure there is plenty of slack in the cable if mot the sled won't run right.
Some people just disconnect them to avoid that problem. I disconnect mine and run a teather for safety instead.
 
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