nick5oh
Member
like it says guys lets hear what you use.....did a search and as you can imagine everything but this popped up since the search contained the word oil lol.
I read in a thread on here somewhere that synthetic is the way to go since the carbon does not build up as much. just want to use something good, don't care about smoke or smell, I want to make sure the sled is burning it lol. thanks boys
I read in a thread on here somewhere that synthetic is the way to go since the carbon does not build up as much. just want to use something good, don't care about smoke or smell, I want to make sure the sled is burning it lol. thanks boys
Mac
Member
klotz
shaggyzr2
Active member
I've had the best luck with yamalube. I run yamalube in my SRX, my buddy was running amsoil synthetic in his srx, his power valves carboned up alot sooner than mine so he is switching over to yamalube now.
JERSEYJOE
Member
10-4 on the Yammalube. I have used it in all my Yamaha sled without issue. I do love the smell of KLOTZ, kinda smells like bubble gum.
nick5oh
Member
yamalube users.....is it a synthetic oil? roughly how much does it cost? how much oil is normal to burn in one tank of fuel? trying to get an idea of how much oil im gonna need for this season-bulk is cheaper than buying by the quart. thanks boys
shaggyzr2
Active member
It's a semi synthetic, I usually pay around $25-$30 per gallon. I think I usually go through a quart per tank of fuel.
devinzz1
Active member
mystik synthetic. best bang for buck ive found.
yamahamark
Member
I run super tech from Wal Mart. Cheap and haven't had a problem yet.
Arctic blue synthetic from fleet and farm. Non synthetic if non powervalved
http://www.fleetfarm.com/category/a...y=12&q_facetTrail=1014:02198:1002:Arctic+Blue
http://www.fleetfarm.com/category/a...y=12&q_facetTrail=1014:02198:1002:Arctic+Blue
drew24
New member
I ran Amzoil Dominator for a season and it gummed up the valves pretty good. Ran Yamalube last year and it was definitely better on the valves. Going to run Yamalube in the Viper this year for break in on the new rings. I have Klotz that I am going to try for this season in the srx.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
amsoil interceptor. 3:16 (yammie tony)
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
roudyroy1
Active member
shell full syn oil.
roudyroy1
Active member
The R.P.M. Unit (machine) was built with a stainless steel piston that run's up to 16,000 r.p.m's, I add E-10 gas into the port hole and add the oil to a 50-1 mix and run it untill the database software on the computer tell's me at what r.p.m. the oil break's down, It also tell's me the viscosity under load presure, was there any foam under heat and how much carbon build up under heat. The unit gets to a 116 fahrenheit. I have noticed that with ethanol the carbon build up is very low with all oils, because ethanol is a strong solvent, cleanser, and drying agent. A good synthetic when using E-10 gas is a must, now with Non-ethanol gas the oils will read about 100 to 150 RPM's higher.
Update: received some royal purple snow 2-c today, went to the lab, First i looked at the oil in my microscope and noticed some thing differnt from the other oil's, The base oil is all synthetic, But some th ing did not look right so i checked out the royal purple web site to look at the msds and there it was, Iso paraffinic diluent's what is it, Isoparaffinic are branched aliphatic hydrocarbon's and depending on the carbon length range it could be used as a solvent, When diluted it act's like a detergant but is better idea then a strong detergant's, I think this oil would keep valve cleaning down, Any way r.p.m. before break down 12,075, This is a very good oil, As the oil's come in i will post them. -42F pour point.
Tested, injex pro 2- cycle, The base stock is mineral oil the other is synthetic oil, this oil contains a large amount of detergent's and ash, To me this oil would be good for air cooled engine's that get hotter then liquid cooled engine's, Air cooled engine's need detergent's to keep carbon build up down. Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 8,875, With a large amount of foam and heat under high r.p.m, This oil failed my test.
Tested, Mystic jt-4 synthetic, R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 13,600, This oil was the best in cold pour point so far with a - 56 f, This oil is excellent and passed my test.
TESTED, Red Line two-stroke snowmobile oil, This oil has 80% base stock's of very small molecules, It has very low ash, Very good film strength, And a pour point of -42f, Maximum r.p.m. before break down was 11,443, This oil passed my test.
TESTED, Polaris racing synthetic oil, this oil had 85% base stock's of very small molecules and a very high film strengh, first let's compare this to ves gold plus, the racing oil has .9% higher visosity then the ves gold plus, But the ves has more corrosion inhibitors then the racing oil, polaris racing synthetic maximum r.p.m. before break down was 12,920, This oil passed my test. with a pour point of -40f. So far the best bang for the buck is the mystic jt-4 synthetic, A friend of mine gave me some Legend zx-2r to test next. Any members use this oil.
TESTED: Amsoil Dominator, pour point -50, This oil has excellent synthetic base stock at 75%, and 25% high processed oil's, but it has alot of detergent's in the formula, R.P.M. before break down of the viscosity and film strength was 12,002, This oil passed my test.
TESTED: Legend ZX-2SR: First off under the microscope this oil is not a synthetic oil, but an ultra pure highly refined mineral oil, the molecules are very small, the pour point was -54f. R.P.M. before brake down of the oil viscosity and film strength is unknown. My test unit only goes to 16,000 R.P.M. and the oil never broke down. This oil is going to be my new oil in my new rush switchback 800, and yes i checked the oil three times in my machines this oil is the best i have tested. I have to thank my friend jeff for giving me this oil to test.
TESTED: Polaris synthetic blend (blue) oil, This oil is70% mineral oil with 30% synthetic in the mix, The molecules are not very uniform, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strengh was 8,988, This oil failed my test, And i have been using this oil to break in my new polaris snowmobile's over the year's, But what i dont understand is on the label it say's for non-ves?, pour point was-38f.
TESTED: Spectro syn-snow, this oil is 100% synthetic with very small and uniform moecules, there is a detergent in this oil, maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,778, this oil passed my test. pour point was -55f.
TESTED: Legend ZX-2R, This oil is almost the the same as zx-2sr, this is not a synthetic but a highly refined mineral, the molecules are small, But not as small as the zx-2sr, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,675, pour point was -48f. This oil passed my test.
TESTED: Yamalube 2s two stroke oil , This oil has a mineral base with synthetic added to the mix 60% mineral, 40% synthetic, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 9,998, Even though the r.p.m. were not that impressive, I am going to pass this oil, Becuse of it's rust protection, and it is a very clean burning oil, pour point was tested at -33f
tested: klotz r-50 Techniplate, This oil is all synthetic, and has very small molecules, And it is a thick oil, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 15,579, even though the oil broke down, my test unit stayed at 116f, wierd, this is the first time my unit did this, pour point tested at -14f, this oil passed my test.
TESTED: Shell ADVANCE SNOW ALTRA ,This oil is all synthetic, The molecules are very small and uniform with low ash, This oil is a API-TC, JASO-FC, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 11,902, this oil passed my test, A note about ash, what is it? it is calcium phenate or magnesium phenate, these compounds are detergent's. Some oil's contain more and some less, We want less ash to pass my test's.
TESTED: CASTOR OIL, Yes people out there are using it, Castor is a bean oil, it is a excellent lubricant, With a high R.P.M. of 13,992 before break down, But this oil is very dirty, with carbon build up, this oil failed my test.
you guys have probably all seen this floating around before.
http://www.legendperformance.com/media/2StrokeAnalysis.pdf saw they gave credit to a user on here at the bottom.
Update: received some royal purple snow 2-c today, went to the lab, First i looked at the oil in my microscope and noticed some thing differnt from the other oil's, The base oil is all synthetic, But some th ing did not look right so i checked out the royal purple web site to look at the msds and there it was, Iso paraffinic diluent's what is it, Isoparaffinic are branched aliphatic hydrocarbon's and depending on the carbon length range it could be used as a solvent, When diluted it act's like a detergant but is better idea then a strong detergant's, I think this oil would keep valve cleaning down, Any way r.p.m. before break down 12,075, This is a very good oil, As the oil's come in i will post them. -42F pour point.
Tested, injex pro 2- cycle, The base stock is mineral oil the other is synthetic oil, this oil contains a large amount of detergent's and ash, To me this oil would be good for air cooled engine's that get hotter then liquid cooled engine's, Air cooled engine's need detergent's to keep carbon build up down. Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 8,875, With a large amount of foam and heat under high r.p.m, This oil failed my test.
Tested, Mystic jt-4 synthetic, R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 13,600, This oil was the best in cold pour point so far with a - 56 f, This oil is excellent and passed my test.
TESTED, Red Line two-stroke snowmobile oil, This oil has 80% base stock's of very small molecules, It has very low ash, Very good film strength, And a pour point of -42f, Maximum r.p.m. before break down was 11,443, This oil passed my test.
TESTED, Polaris racing synthetic oil, this oil had 85% base stock's of very small molecules and a very high film strengh, first let's compare this to ves gold plus, the racing oil has .9% higher visosity then the ves gold plus, But the ves has more corrosion inhibitors then the racing oil, polaris racing synthetic maximum r.p.m. before break down was 12,920, This oil passed my test. with a pour point of -40f. So far the best bang for the buck is the mystic jt-4 synthetic, A friend of mine gave me some Legend zx-2r to test next. Any members use this oil.
TESTED: Amsoil Dominator, pour point -50, This oil has excellent synthetic base stock at 75%, and 25% high processed oil's, but it has alot of detergent's in the formula, R.P.M. before break down of the viscosity and film strength was 12,002, This oil passed my test.
TESTED: Legend ZX-2SR: First off under the microscope this oil is not a synthetic oil, but an ultra pure highly refined mineral oil, the molecules are very small, the pour point was -54f. R.P.M. before brake down of the oil viscosity and film strength is unknown. My test unit only goes to 16,000 R.P.M. and the oil never broke down. This oil is going to be my new oil in my new rush switchback 800, and yes i checked the oil three times in my machines this oil is the best i have tested. I have to thank my friend jeff for giving me this oil to test.
TESTED: Polaris synthetic blend (blue) oil, This oil is70% mineral oil with 30% synthetic in the mix, The molecules are not very uniform, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strengh was 8,988, This oil failed my test, And i have been using this oil to break in my new polaris snowmobile's over the year's, But what i dont understand is on the label it say's for non-ves?, pour point was-38f.
TESTED: Spectro syn-snow, this oil is 100% synthetic with very small and uniform moecules, there is a detergent in this oil, maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,778, this oil passed my test. pour point was -55f.
TESTED: Legend ZX-2R, This oil is almost the the same as zx-2sr, this is not a synthetic but a highly refined mineral, the molecules are small, But not as small as the zx-2sr, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,675, pour point was -48f. This oil passed my test.
TESTED: Yamalube 2s two stroke oil , This oil has a mineral base with synthetic added to the mix 60% mineral, 40% synthetic, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 9,998, Even though the r.p.m. were not that impressive, I am going to pass this oil, Becuse of it's rust protection, and it is a very clean burning oil, pour point was tested at -33f
tested: klotz r-50 Techniplate, This oil is all synthetic, and has very small molecules, And it is a thick oil, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 15,579, even though the oil broke down, my test unit stayed at 116f, wierd, this is the first time my unit did this, pour point tested at -14f, this oil passed my test.
TESTED: Shell ADVANCE SNOW ALTRA ,This oil is all synthetic, The molecules are very small and uniform with low ash, This oil is a API-TC, JASO-FC, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 11,902, this oil passed my test, A note about ash, what is it? it is calcium phenate or magnesium phenate, these compounds are detergent's. Some oil's contain more and some less, We want less ash to pass my test's.
TESTED: CASTOR OIL, Yes people out there are using it, Castor is a bean oil, it is a excellent lubricant, With a high R.P.M. of 13,992 before break down, But this oil is very dirty, with carbon build up, this oil failed my test.
you guys have probably all seen this floating around before.
http://www.legendperformance.com/media/2StrokeAnalysis.pdf saw they gave credit to a user on here at the bottom.
Last edited:
yamahamark
Member
Roudyroy1 have you tested any super tech 2stroke oil from Wal Mart??
Last year I ran VES Gold in one SRX and amsoil in the other. The sled with VES Gold had twice the miles as the amsoil sled, yet the power valves on the sled running VES Gold were much cleaner and much easier to clean...carbon came off much easier.
roudyroy1
Active member
This is not my work. the credit goes to chemist i believe from HCS
devinzz1
Active member
I seen these discussions in the poo threads. Alot of people switched to the legend oil over the overpriced poo oil.
For our non powervalved sleds their fine with any of these oils here really. The powervalve guys wana keep them clean but a clean burning oil doesnt mean its a better oil.
Youllbe2nd
New member
I've ran Polaris oils, Castrol, shell, skidoo oil, amsoil, ipone, and yamalube. I've had best luck with yamalube as far as clean valves. Very noticeable difference in carbon build up. Ipone oil was my favorite for a long time until I tried the Yamaha oil. It's cheaper too.
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