iasledder
New member
Ok, been thru carbs, valves all good, new plugs. Have problem at times with idle speed, not consistent. At times acts like it drops a cylinder, slows way down. Shut off and start back up OK. Not sensitive to slow idle speed adjustment. Before going thru carbs and cleaning valves, at slow idle would only run on the PTO,1, cyl. Good spark on other 2 cyls with wet plugs. After work runs good at all speeds but slow idle. Any thoughts? TKS
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super1c
Super Moderator
sounds as if it could be electrical. OHM plug caps and coil. Then work your way to stator and CDI. ALso check entire harness for any rub throughs.
iasledder
New member
Agree it could be electrical. Little sensitivity to idle speed adjustments. Prefers around 4k, when dropping to 2.5k goes into hunting condition like up against a rev limiter(ying/yang). Thought might be air leak around PTO end crank seal, but spraying with WD40 while running makes no change to the rpm speed.
drew24
New member
The rev limiter sound makes me think tors. Could have gunk in the carb switch not letting it move freely also causing your idle speed consistency problems.
Tors sounds exactly like a rev limiter. Did you bypass the switch for easy check?
Youllbe2nd
New member
Tors
Sent from my E6560C using Tapatalk
Sent from my E6560C using Tapatalk
mod-it
Member
Very common to get the throttle cable too tight after cleaning the carbs and have the TORS start engaging. Loosen up the throttle cable at the carb and report back.
iasledder
New member
More good thoughts, thanks. Thought I had Tors adjusted correctly so slack in cable with slides bottomed out. Will sure recheck and by-pass as well.
I did not know what settings were used on the air pilot screws, so set all as received. If they were screwed in less than 1-1/2 turns(lean) this might cause the lack of sensitivity when trying to adjust speed between 4k and 2.5k. Big problem (I think) how in the "H" do you adjust these and count revolutions as they are so conveniently placed on the bottom rear of the carbs? This is my sons sled, I'm not totally familiar with all of the adjustments. I do have a repair manual, but lacks some of the specifics.
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I did not know what settings were used on the air pilot screws, so set all as received. If they were screwed in less than 1-1/2 turns(lean) this might cause the lack of sensitivity when trying to adjust speed between 4k and 2.5k. Big problem (I think) how in the "H" do you adjust these and count revolutions as they are so conveniently placed on the bottom rear of the carbs? This is my sons sled, I'm not totally familiar with all of the adjustments. I do have a repair manual, but lacks some of the specifics.
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drew24
New member
Easiest to take carbs off to get to the fuel screws. My tors was giving me problems. Took the switch out and cleaned it and it is good to go now. If you bypass it and it works you might just need to clean the switch. There is a write up in the tech section on how to do it. It is very easy.
super1c
Super Moderator
fuel screws should be at 2 turns out. Stock i think was 1 7/8 but with age and quality of gas everyone runs them at 2 out to combat this and the idle hang. The carbs do have to come off sadly but i would adjust them properly.
iasledder
New member
According to manual air screws are 1-1/2 turns. Finally bit the bullet and took carbs off once again. Pondered setting at the 1-1/2 turns or go to 2 turns. Found set at 3 turns. After adjusting to 1-1/2 turns all works well. Idles at 1500, no hunting. Thanks for all of the replies. Need snow!