2002 SRX 700.... Possibly buying, and have a few questions. Pics inside!

Any time I've seen engine guys give advice on using a compression tester they always say to pull the plugs to make it easier to pull the engine over and make sure the ignition is off,either through the key switch or kill switch.Testing is generally done on a warm engine to give a truer reading of what the engine is like inside,just remember that it's doubtful any two gauges will read the same so don't be hung up on the number as long as they're all fairly consistent.
 
you inbox was full so will post about the SRX here.


First of all that price is awesome.In Canada prices are high.There is an 02 now for sale here for $4200 with 800 original miles on it.
If the motors are maintained properly ,then they are reliable.I have 11,500 miles on my motor and still runs strong.Got to check out the skid prior to buying.Mine was in bad shape when I bought it,but never checked it prior.
Main thing is good fuel and jetting proper.I love the DCS for sure,a little extra security. I know these sleds are getting on in age,but I still love the pulling power they have and that great sound.Keep carbs clean and clutching up to date..you will be rewarded with a smile running down that River or Lake.
Doug
 
Thanks a lot. I'll give it another look over Monday after work. If the test ride goes good, and compression is good I'll probably pull the trigger on it.
 
OK. I'll double check on the plugs.. As far as a loaded 8dn20, ... I'm pretty green on knowledge/vendors etc. So what exactly is that?

Currently I have Hauck clutches on my 2011 nytro xtx and my 97sx700 and they seem good. Nothing is dialed in yet , but definitely an improvement over stock. I'd image this would be the same..

I think a Hauck kit for the srx runs $300..
 
The loaded 8dn-20 is the weights in the primary. The 8dn-20 are the stock weights in the 02 srx. Loaded is referring to the rivets in the weights. 4.5 gram rivets in both holes. Should already have 4.5 in the tip. Just need to drill the inner rivet out and replace with a 4.5. There are tons of info on this setup with minor differences. I believe with the 00-02 you want the w-w-w primary spring with a green dot secondary spring wrapped at 70 and around a 51/45 multiangle helix. That would be a starting point and adjust from there. Springs are Yamaha springs.
 
Yep like Drew said. WWW primary spring, 4.5 gram rivet in middle hole, green secondary spring but 54/46 or 54/44 on the helix. I used 54/46 dalton helix when I tried this setup. I believe that was mrvipers helix of choice. I think Turks was 54/44.
Good all around setup and fairly cheap to put together
 
Hmm. Where the best place to buy? I'm somewhat tech savvy and mechanically inclined. But when random numbers pop up describing a clutch or carb setup come about, I get confused..so are you saying this would be better than a properly set up clutch kit from Hauck? Hauck is an hour from me so its not like "email tuning"..
 
It all depends on what you want from the sled and what your willing to spend. 8dn-20 is a stock Yamaha weight as well as Rivets and springs will all be stock Yamaha parts for this setup and you can get them from partzilla for a great price. The helix will be right from dalton. For example heelclicker and heavy hitter kits have springs and rivets/tuning hardware meant for their specific kits. They will come with tuning sheets and you can always contact them directly for additional support. There is also a ton of support on this website with dialing in your clutch setup especially when using the three kits I've mentioned. Your into 400$ or so for aftermarket kit with helix and probably half that if you go with a Yamaha setup.

You should be able to get your hands on some good used Yamaha 8dn-20 weights and possibly the helix you want for a good price here on TY in the classifieds. Springs and rivets are cheap to buy on partzilla. This seems to be a very popular setup for that sled. But for the extra money alot of guys swear by the heelclickers for a wicked fast trail machine.

Sent from my E6560C using Tapatalk
 
comatoast said:
Hmm. Where the best place to buy? I'm somewhat tech savvy and mechanically inclined. But when random numbers pop up describing a clutch or carb setup come about, I get confused..so are you saying this would be better than a properly set up clutch kit from Hauck? Hauck is an hour from me so its not like "email tuning"..
Click to expand...

I'll reserve my feelings on hauck stuff.
To me there's 3 options.
1: Yamaha clutching
2: Heelclickers
3: Heavy Hitters

You can get the Yamaha stuff to run as good as anything else. It just depends on what you want which weights (profile) you would base your setup around. Same goes for aftermarket weights. You already should have the 8dn20s in that sled unless someone changed them out which is very possible with a 14 year old sled. So this would be cheapest option and proven as a good all around setup. The downfall is easy tuneabilty but this recipe is already proven and shouldn't need tinkering.

The aftermarket weights biggest advantage is they are easy to tune with the removable weight in the form of hardware or magnets instead of rivets. You still need to know what you want because that will determine which brand (or profile) you choose. The good is tuneabilty but it costs more.
 
I'm always interested in why people aren't fans of certain products, just for my own knowledge.. I'd the Hauck to cookie cutter? Too overpriced? While compared with bender or ulmer?

Looks like I have some searching and reading to do on clutches!

He came down to $1400, so as long as it rides OK and the compression test passes , I'll be picking it up tomorrow!
 
bluemonster1 said:
you inbox was full so will post about the SRX here.


First of all that price is awesome.In Canada prices are high.There is an 02 now for sale here for $4200 with 800 original miles on it.
If the motors are maintained properly ,then they are reliable.I have 11,500 miles on my motor and still runs strong.Got to check out the skid prior to buying.Mine was in bad shape when I bought it,but never checked it prior.
Main thing is good fuel and jetting proper.I love the DCS for sure,a little extra security. I know these sleds are getting on in age,but I still love the pulling power they have and that great sound.Keep carbs clean and clutching up to date..you will be rewarded with a smile running down that River or Lake.
Doug
Click to expand...
Hey just wondering where this 02 srx with 800 miles is for sale at?
 
OK. Things changed with the schedule and I'll be looking at it Wednesday or Thursday.. When I looked at it the first time it was dark, so I just want to check things over again in the daylight. Anything specific I should look for on the motor as far as leaks? Main seals, any problematic spots etc?

I'll check that first , then take it for a spin. When I get back , I'll pull the plugs , check them, take a peek down and see if I can see how the pistons look, then do a compression test after its been warmed up..

Anything to add or extra spots I should look anywhere? Motor, clutch, tunnel, etc? I remember seeing something about a w arm sometimes cracking?

Either way ANY spot I should check for , please let me know. Thanks again everyone!
 
The w-arm is the front torque arm of the skid. It would be difficult to see if it's cracked or not without the skid out. Most likely it's cracked. You can get another used for about $40. Most important to me when buying a sled is good engine and track/studs. Remember a new track and studs can be over $700. And if the sled was stored outdoors and has rust on nuts/bolts and corrosion on the aluminum I wouldn't buy it. This usually means all the bearings are shot too. its no fun to work on a sled where every other bolt is frozen, stripped or snaps off. Also, make sure the speedo works, broken speedo means bad speedo bearing. And make sure the grip/thumb warmers work
 
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Thanks! Sled was supposedly stored inside , engineering be bay looks descent, no major rust on anything and the track is a ripsaw that was replaced last season/( has about 400 miles on it ). Warmers and speedo both work. On t a perfec t sled but for $1400 seemed like a descent deal. Hell, even if it only made it one season.

6800 miles on the sled.

Just out of curiosity. Before something major happens ( yes I am ultra paranoid about things like this ) .. How much would it cost in parts do tear the motor down and do a complete rebuild. New pistons, rings, seals, bearings, line hone the mains, balance the crank, etc?.

I would almost consider it before something bad happens which would lead to a much more costly engine failure like a bearing locking up, having a leaky seal, losing a crank etc
 
staggs65 said:
I'd just clean the carbs, clean and adjust power valves. Do the other preseason maintenance and ride it.
Click to expand...

I can almost see your eyes rolling through that message. haha :)


I know I over think things, but after my viper locked up a bearing, I've always been extra cautious with older/carb sleds.. Especially when the current owner doesn't know alot about it, other than it was "previous;y maintained well"

Are there any good videos or write ups ( with pics ) ? I know there are threads out there, but when searching I didn't see a whole lot out there as far as yamaha specific,
 
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