SRX Engine

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FJ-40

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I have a 98 SRX the external PTO bearing was starved for oil causing it to seize to the crank breaking the crank on the first rod journal. Which threw some steel up into the PTO side cylinder scoring that cylinder hammering the piston top and head. It also shoved the crank towards the mag and busted out the snap ring grooves in the case. So this was about 10 yrs ago, shortly after it happened I bought a used case and crank assembly from a newer SRX thinking they were all the same. It sat untouched until I last week I finally started to tear it down and get at repairing it. The case I bought has this number engraved in it 8DW-010337 could someone tell me the year I know it is a 2000 or newer by the large single wide PTO bearing (which appears to be a better design for oiling) and the small high output Mag. I bought a used cylinder head and piston off of ebay. So my other question is will my 98 top end work on this case (I read somewhere on this site not to mix cylinders and heads from certain years). I know to run this case/mag I need to rewire the sled I found instructions in the Tech pages. Will the dual headlight assemble fit in a 98 hood or do I need a newer hood as well. I have sent emails to wreckers in the area looking for a replacement electrical system. The sled had 7200km on it when this happened with absolutely no other issues.
 
Your top end will bolt right on without any issues.You say your bought another cylinder,is it the same as your other 98 ones? Marked 8DN00?

I take it you have the stator with the new cases so yes you will need to do some other swapping to make all this work.You'll need a wiring harness from an SRX with the dual headlight,go for the '01 it should be easier to find and it doesn't have that funky one off year CDI of the 2000.You'll need the voltage regulator,carb rack with TPS,the headlight pod and headlight,the wiring harness for the hood and the CDI of course.The headlight pod and light will fit right in the 98 hood.Also you'll need to change one wire on your tach too,the backlight bulb blue wire will need to be changed to another post with a brown wire.I have this swap detailed in the tech section if you need any other info.
 
Thank You for your response to my questions. I read your article in the Tech Pages so I knew I had to look for electrical parts I just wasn't sure if I would need a hood as well. Yes the head is marked 8dn00. The Stator Mag and pick-up were included with the case.
 
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There is one thing I forgot to mention about mounting the new headlight pod in your hood is you'll notice the 98 headlight wiring has a condensor mounted to a tab right by the headlight.You'll have to move that,just pull it off the tab,you'll be changing the hood wiring harness anyway.One more thing that you should get is the bracket that the regulator bolts to on the 00-02 dual headlight sleds,it comes with the 2 tabs for the load control relay and headlight relay and the 2 tabs for the condensors.I think any chassis with the dual headlight has the same bracket,V Max,SX R or SRX.I can't think of anything right off but if you have any questions through your retrofit don't hesitate to contact me,I'll try to answer them for ya.Like I said before though,if you have the choice go with the parts from an 01,an added benefit will be the separate thumb and grip warmers,so you'll also need another dial for that.
 
What happens if you don't switch the wire on the tach? I did not do this when I swapped mine to the 01 electronics. It seems to work fine and the light works on the tach. Or is the 98 tach different from the 99? My tach is the same as the one I got with the one in the gauge pod I got. x2 on the bracket for the relays and regulator. A lot easier than making the bracket. You will also need a windshield for a 00-02.
 
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Hopefully I can find a sled at a wrecker with the wiring complete and intact. I sent requests to all the local wreckers I could find. I see varying advice on what to do with the cylinders I know I don't want to hone them I have new rings and upper bearings from Yamaha and there is still signs of cross hatch in the cylinders. Is it ok to just clean them oil them then replace the rings and upper bearings and assemble the engine? I still have to purchase a new piston from Yamaha the one included with my ebay parts is some aftermarket one I am comfortable using. Everything else I purchased from Yamaha, new crank seals, gaskets, o rings, Yamabond case sealant, power valve seals and o rings, exhaust doughnuts for both ends of the pipes, motor mounts, new rubber inserts for the torque arm, I think I have all the bases covered to assemble the engine. It has been a while since I had this sled running. I have always felt if you are going to do something you best do it right. Thanks for your help I appreciate it.
 
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drew24 said:
What happens if you don't switch the wire on the tach? I did not do this when I swapped mine to the 01 electronics. It seems to work fine and the light works on the tach. Or is the 98 tach different from the 99? My tach is the same as the one I got with the one in the gauge pod I got. x2 on the bracket for the relays and regulator. A lot easier than making the bracket. You will also need a windshield for a 00-02.
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The stock tach on my 98 has the bulb wiring different than what the one on my 01 is,which is how I found out what my problem was.When I first started up the engine with the 2000 electronics in it the tach wouldn't work,and through trial and error I found that if I pulled the bulb for the backlight it would.After cursing a lot and finally swapping the one from my 01 into my 98,once I did that the tach worked fine.So once I got looking at the wiring I noticed the blue wire on the 98 tach is for the bulb and it's fed off a post with blue wires,where the 01 tach bulb wire is fed from a post with brown wires.Once I switched the wire on my 98 tach,bingo,worked like a charm.
 
FJ-40 said:
Hopefully I can find a sled at a wrecker with the wiring complete and intact. I sent requests to all the local wreckers I could find. I see varying advice on what to do with the cylinders I know I don't want to hone them I have new rings and upper bearings from Yamaha and there is still signs of cross hatch in the cylinders. Is it ok to just clean them oil them then replace the rings and upper bearings and assemble the engine? I still have to purchase a new piston from Yamaha the one included with my ebay parts is some aftermarket one I am comfortable using. Everything else I purchased from Yamaha, new crank seals, gaskets, o rings, Yamabond case sealant, power valve seals and o rings, exhaust doughnuts for both ends of the pipes, motor mounts, new rubber inserts for the torque arm, I think I have all the bases covered to assemble the engine. It has been a while since I had this sled running. I have always felt if you are going to do something you best do it right. Thanks for your help I appreciate it.
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Cleaning/honing cylinders has been discussed a fair amount and it's generally accepted that nicasil is so hard that it doesn't need honing,there's a few videos online about the topic too.All I've ever done is use something along the line of WD 40 and a scrotchbrite pad to clean up any carbon or whatever,wipe them down,put 2 cycle oil in the bores and put them back on the engine.As long as the crank bearings are good and tight you should be fine in putting new rings and upper conrod bearings in with the new o rings and whatever other parts you have.
 
That was what I had planned on doing even bought a extra fine scotchbrite pad. The cylinders themselves look really clean and in good shape. Thought I should ask I haven't dealt with nicasil before Thanks
 
The PTO bearing on the used crank I bought does not have any play in it but it is the only one that makes any noise when I spin it and seems to have a spot where it sort of sticks when turned slowly. Not wanting to chance it failing on me I ordered a new bearing from Yamaha. I was wondering how I remove and replace the race on the PTO end. It has no place to put a puller on or behind it. Does it have to be heated so it expands to remove it? How is the new one put on? if it is heated not pressed what temperature do I heat it to. Tried googling it didn't come up with anything. Thanks.
 
Any PTO or mag end crank bearings I've ever seen on a Yamaha crank have just slipped on there by hand.I don't know as the race is separate from the rest of the bearing,if it is then I can't say as I've ever realized it because they always come off in one piece.
 
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