8BU-00 weights?

N

nick5oh

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Joined
Mar 10, 2015
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359
Location
Hunstville, Ontario
What sled are these weights from? Looking over everyone's clutch setups in the tech faq section.....want to clutch my sled.....not sure what to do???
99 srx stock with a bender can. It's got a 121 m10 suspension, 1.25" hacksaw with 96 studs. I want the thing to rip outta the hole with quick recovery outta turns or after slowing down. the race is most often won by the person who gets outta the hole first and faster. Willing to sacrifice a bit of top end since I've heard the m10 will do that anyways.
I see a lot of guys running the yammy green secondary spring with assorted helix angles. Lots of guys using heel clickers, and most use different weights on those.
I see the bender srx kit. But it's more expensive than picking your own helix and buying it as well as the 2 springs the kit comes with? I guess you pay for knowledge which is understandable.
How much are the full heelclicker kits? I don't see prices listed on there site??? I'd prefer something with easier adjustability down the road. And heelclicker doesn't list much info on there site about the differences between the drag and fly, the 2 speed kit and the normal kit.

I guess I'm lost so far
 
8bu-00 weights are from a 1995 vmax800 or better known as vmax4, they are a aggressive drag type weight but they do not offer great backshift, so I would say by rading your description not really what your looking for. Clutching it will just depend on how much you want to spend, the cheapest way out is a new helix and springs for your current 8dn10 weights in front clutch(which are decent).
More money and more tuning options would be a set of heel clickers, but again its more money, $230 for the primary kit and you still will need a aftermarket helix and new sec. spring, figure $350 all said and done.

so, pick your poision......
 
mrviper700 said:
8bu-00 weights are from a 1995 vmax800 or better known as vmax4, they are a aggressive drag type weight but they do not offer great backshift, so I would say by rading your description not really what your looking for. Clutching it will just depend on how much you want to spend, the cheapest way out is a new helix and springs for your current 8dn10 weights in front clutch(which are decent).
More money and more tuning options would be a set of heel clickers, but again its more money, $230 for the primary kit and you still will need a aftermarket helix and new sec. spring, figure $350 all said and done.

so, pick your poision......
Click to expand...

If I were to start with a helix and new springs for the primary and secondary, would I be able to just buy heelclicker weights afterwards and start tuning? Or would I need new springs and helix again?
Affordable (cheap) is good lol! Stock weights are sleeper! Care to share a good setup with me?
 
You'll need the HC spring that comes with the kit. It's very aggressive.

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nick5oh said:
If I were to start with a helix and new springs for the primary and secondary, would I be able to just buy heelclicker weights afterwards and start tuning? Or would I need new springs and helix again?
Affordable (cheap) is good lol! Stock weights are sleeper! Care to share a good setup with me?
Click to expand...

with the h/c kit you have to use the weights and the primary spring that comes with the weight kit, you would however need a different helix because of the angles will need to be different to work those weights.

back to your stock primary weights, you can run a 4.5 rivet in both holes and then use a white/white/white color coded stock Yamaha primary spring, then get a 50/44 helix and use a green dot Yamaha sec. spring with it wrapped at 60-70 degrees. you want your engine to run at 8300-8400rpm.
 
mrviper700 said:
with the h/c kit you have to use the weights and the primary spring that comes with the weight kit, you would however need a different helix because of the angles will need to be different to work those weights.

back to your stock primary weights, you can run a 4.5 rivet in both holes and then use a white/white/white color coded stock Yamaha primary spring, then get a 50/44 helix and use a green dot Yamaha sec. spring with it wrapped at 60-70 degrees. you want your engine to run at 8300-8400rpm.
Click to expand...

What sled does the w-w-w primary spring come on? What sled does the green secondary spring come on? where would I get the rivets? Also do the rivets just tap in with a hammer/punch? Thank you mr viper
 
You will have to drill the rivets that you want to change then put new in and hammer the end. I am pretty sure the 99 had the 4.5 in the tip already so you would just need the inner changed.
Yamaha part numbers:
www primary spring 90501-583L1-00
green dot secondary spring 90508-556A2
4.5 rivet 90261-06033-00
 
drew24 said:
You will have to drill the rivets that you want to change then put new in and hammer the end. I am pretty sure the 99 had the 4.5 in the tip already so you would just need the inner changed.
Yamaha part numbers:
www primary spring 90501-583L1-00
green dot secondary spring 90508-556A2
4.5 rivet 90261-06033-00
Click to expand...

Thank you sir for the part numbers, located the green spring on partzilla, but it pulls up 774 parts for the w-w-w spring lol. What sleds do they come on? Also can anyone verify the 4.5 gram weights on the 8dn-10 clutch weights?
 
Take those part numbers to your local dealer those parts are cheap.

Sent from my E6560C using Tapatalk
 
mrviper700 said:
with the h/c kit you have to use the weights and the primary spring that comes with the weight kit, you would however need a different helix because of the angles will need to be different to work those weights.

back to your stock primary weights, you can run a 4.5 rivet in both holes and then use a white/white/white color coded stock Yamaha primary spring, then get a 50/44 helix and use a green dot Yamaha sec. spring with it wrapped at 60-70 degrees. you want your engine to run at 8300-8400rpm.
Click to expand...

Btw mr viper how is this setup over stock? Like I stated I want holeshot and good recovery off and on the throttle. Basically a trail monster. Hopefully it has a decent top speed still.
 
95-96 vmax 4 800 weights. they are great for racing. awful for trail with no backshift. next to 8bu-10, these are the best '' race '' weights yamaha has. i would say no to these for the guy that just wants to ride. 3:16x (yammie tony)
 
YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
95-96 vmax 4 800 weights. they are great for racing. awful for trail with no backshift. next to 8bu-10, these are the best '' race '' weights yamaha has. i would say no to these for the guy that just wants to ride. 3:16x (yammie tony)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up tony. What do you think of mr vipers recommendation? Still awaiting his response on how the sled will like it. Do you have any idea on what weight rivets are on the 99srx 8dn-10 weights? Looking for confirmation on whether or not they are 4.5 grams. Thanks
 
I believe stock 8dn-10 came with a 3.1 gram and a 4.5 gram on 99 srx 700. Those weights are 39.76 grams without rivets in them so if you weigh them you should have a grand total of 47.36 in stock form. Should have ywy primary spring 15mm rollers, red secondary spring wrapped at 60 with 47° stock helix.
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YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
mr viper will give ya the best setup for your type of riding. i have all stk specs. 3:16x (yammie tony)
Click to expand...

Pretty new to the site but there's a couple names I'd trust so far and he's one of em....
I guess I should just get enough of those rivets to do both holes on all my weights since I don't know what's on them already? Do the rivets come as one piece from Yamaha? As in I would need 6 total for the 3 weights?
 
that is my asphalt sled. and no thats not a stk clutch setup. my other srx is a 2002. now if you go to your dealer for the rivets, they are sold single. of course you need two per weight. 3:16x (yammie tony)
 
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