2003 Yamaha Viper engine work

Grimmy

Grimmy

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
64
Location
N. Muskegon, Michigan
My 2003 Yamaha Viper is stock. The center cylinder went a couple of years ago, and now I need it rebuilt. That's the short of it. The top of the piston turned to chunks and the sidewall of the cylinder has a build up on it now, but I don't think it's hard any grooves made into the cylinder wall.. I'd like to get it back to running condition but don't know anyone to get it done.

Wondering if anyone had any recommendations with regards to who would do the job right, that are near the Muskegon, MI area.
 
I do not know uour area, but most guys near me and myself we work on our own machines, Im sure one of the other fellars on here will chime in soon, if you were closer to my location I'd say drop in, work on it together
 
Not sure for the Muskegon are but near me there's a place called J & J performance. It's a small shop with only 2 people working it. They do a great job at a fair price. My buddy had his xlt cylinders bored .20 over and it only cost my $35 and had it back same day.
If you were closer I would recommend you go there.
 
I am all for working on myself. I already pulled all the exhaust, pulled the head, then popped the piston back down and off the buildup on the cylinder wall.

I don't care to dig in any further as I would rather someone with solid experience be at my side. I don't know what caused the problem to begin with. I don't know if it was a head gasket leak, carburetor boots leaking, or a seal further down in the engine. I want someone with experience doing this so we can discuss deeper and make sure that seals and such are good to go.
 
Post some pics of it. More than likely the carbs were dirty and made it lean out and being the center cylinder the main seals shouldn't have anything to do with it. Check the pulse line for the fuel pump to make sure it is not cracked.
 
Carbs were definitely not dirty. Mr viper 700 was working with me on it at the time. I had the carbs in and out over 5 times. Cleaned them in and out every time. Kept fiddling with the fuel screws too to make sure they were the same. It's a stock sled so everything should have stayed as stock settings but the idle would stay high no matter what which leads me to believe some type of air leak.
 
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It doesn't seem that there are grooves in the wall but rather build up.

What's the pulse line? I'm planning on replacing the carb boots once it's back to being whole. Prob some remote fuel screw adjusters too.
 
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Grimmy said:
It doesn't seem that there are grooves in the wall but rather build up.

What's the pulse line? I'm planning on replacing the carb boots once it's back to being whole. Prob some remote fuel screw adjusters too.
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There's a black rubber line going from your crank case into your fuel pump. That's your pulse line. Fuel pump requires an air pulse from the crank to operate

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Grimmy said:
I'll look at the pulse line, what am I looking for.....anything besides cracks?

Unsure of exact mileage, less than 8k for sure.
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They can get soft from the ethanol and sometimes they can sort of collapse under operation. It might look ok... but could need replaced.

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I would say the carbs definitely should have been clean. lol Did you ever get the chance to change the carb boots?
 
Just read your other posts from previous thread. I bet you have a blown crank seal.

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Haven't changed carb boots yet. Once it's on its way to being back together I'll be replacing various hoses, boots, bolts, fuel screws, etc as well as doing some of the preventative tricks found in the tech section of ty, as well as cleaning it up.

Crank seal........ this is exactly why I want to have someone that knows these well, doing the work or letting me help and learn. I need to get to thenjoy bottom of what really caused it. I'm sure that means going further than just pulling the jugs and I'm not going to go there on my own. If that means I find a shop then so be it. Ugh
 
There is nothing to the bottom end. It seems to me you are mechanically inclined enough to get the job done. If you take it slow and ask questions when needed it would be no big deal. There are some good threads on here with people doing it. I would recommend if you take this on to use oem parts. Use yamabond or permatex motoseal 1 in between the case halves. A little patience and I like to use my ocd and it is a pretty easy task.
 
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