Secondary frustration 2 years of woes

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phazerBILL

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Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Messages
64
Location
Iowa
I have a 99 Vmax 500. Idles and runs like an ape. No bogs from the carburetor side of things. However when taking a long run getting off the gas then trying to go again it bogs, you can hear the clutch squeel sometimes and belt grab. Literally can pin the bish and itll stay at 4000 rpms till the clutch catches back up. Does the same when running in some deeps stuff - doesnt have the power when I need it. Ive been around sleds for 5-6 years . Ive taken the clutch off cleaned it, put it back on same result. I put 2 new bushings in (6 & 12 in the diagram) along with a new secondary spring. 6-1 helix angle which is stock. Cleaned it again and same result. Been using Brake parts cleaner as a cleaner. Whats going on and why am I not getting back shift?! About ready to pin this thing into the next culvert and jump off it Ive had the clutch off so many times.

Forgot to add , have played with Belt deflection got it about dead level with the top of the secondary. Tried it above and below secondary also no luck

yamiclutch.PNG
 
Have you cleaned the carbs? It sorta sounds like a carb issue like something is partially clogged. Also check the reeds as they can be cracked, broke, or even have trash in them causing it to bog. Another thing to check is compression. Low compression will cause this as well.
 
I haven't cleaned the carbs -- it runs great through all rpms ranges . But you can see the belt stuck down in the secondary when hitting the breaks after a short burst .
 
phazerBILL said:
I haven't cleaned the carbs -- it runs great through all rpms ranges . But you can see the belt stuck down in the secondary when hitting the breaks after a short burst .
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anyone ? About to throw some graphite on it or something .i just don't get how it's sticking ..
 
Pull the weights and rollers on your primary, You are going to find them worn, the weights will wear dents in them. This wont let the primary shift back. The secondary is only one part of the back shift of your system. The rollers will also be worn, if the weights are worn. the twins eat weights and rollers. The motor is not balanced close enough. Tripples and 4 strokes can go for 10000 plus miles and not wear out a roller or weight. Twins are lucky to make 6000.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
Pull the weights and rollers on your primary, You are going to find them worn, the weights will wear dents in them. This wont let the primary shift back. The secondary is only one part of the back shift of your system. The rollers will also be worn, if the weights are worn. the twins eat weights and rollers. The motor is not balanced close enough. Tripples and 4 strokes can go for 10000 plus miles and not wear out a roller or weight. Twins are lucky to make 6000.
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This may be it, as I noticed engagement was at 3000 instead of 4000 and peak RPMs is 8400 when it should be 8200. I guess I had no idea it affected backshift in the secondary. Where is the best place to get a rebuild kit for this or what part numbers do I need to tell the local hammerheads at the yamaha dealer ?
 
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From what I've been told. Alot of the aftermarket rebuild kits are of poor quality. The safest bet for quality and long term durability seems to be genuine yamaha parts. But you need to order everything by part numbers. No kits. You can find all these part numbers using the yamaha parts finder icon up top there.
 
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caravanman said:
You never mentioned the condition of your primary.
Whats the state of things there?
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I had to rebuild my primary' s at about 5k.

I figure out what part #'s I need online and have my local dealer order them.
I don't have to trust them to look up the right #'s and its normally cheaper than having to pay the online shipping.
 
Can you just do it on the sled or is it pretty much impossible. Looks like you could do the rollers real easy. I have one that isnt rolling at all...
 
You can do weights and rollers while it is on the machine but its easier to pull the clutch.
 
Doing a spring change and new buttons on the secondary is an easy job, as for the primary, the rollers and weights are easy to change (look for loose rollers or wear spots on the weights) If you need new bushings in your primary best to bring it to someone with proper spider tools and press.
But from what your describing Id check the TORS before I started ripping everything apart. This is your throttle override system and after long runs at constant throttle (lake running especially) it thinks the throttle is stuck and will retard timing to the engine until you have slowed down enough then it will let you go again. Check that your throttle cable has play, if its too tight this could be your issue, it is possible to bypass the TORS system to check if this is your issue, but I do not recommend leaving it bypassed. (unless you want a run away sled)
 
brade07 said:
Doing a spring change and new buttons on the secondary is an easy job, as for the primary, the rollers and weights are easy to change (look for loose rollers or wear spots on the weights) If you need new bushings in your primary best to bring it to someone with proper spider tools and press.
But from what your describing Id check the TORS before I started ripping everything apart. This is your throttle override system and after long runs at constant throttle (lake running especially) it thinks the throttle is stuck and will retard timing to the engine until you have slowed down enough then it will let you go again. Check that your throttle cable has play, if its too tight this could be your issue, it is possible to bypass the TORS system to check if this is your issue, but I do not recommend leaving it bypassed. (unless you want a run away sled)
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TORS is bypassed. What do you mean by loose rollers ? The bolts are tight but the rollers roll freely after I break parts cleaned the piss out of the whole clutch and emery clothed up the rollers weights ect. Thanks for the continued help fellas, really appreciate it!
 
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