I was riding the other week and you could hear loud squealing coming from the clutch area. Also occasionally I would lose power and the tach would be up around 8000. Needless to say it ate 2 quarts of oil and 6 gallons of gas on a 50 mile ride. I just tore the clutch apart and found severely worn weights and rollers. While I had it apart I noticed it has a 8BW spider with 8CR-00 weights. The outer rivet is 13.9 and the inner is 17.2. It also has a blue spring with 3 green lines. In my research I found that the original sled should have a CA spider in the clutch and 8 ab weights with 13.9 rivets in inner and outer holes with a white-silver-white Spring. My question is are the parts interchangeable between these 2 and which setup do you recommend. When ordering parts can I still use the part number from yamaha oem for the year make and model for my sled. This is my first sled which I just purchased a few months ago and have no experience with these clutches. I am very mechanical but finding info on this year has been hard. Any help would be appreciated
yamahamark
Member
Welcome to the site.
Finding info on these 600 twins is kinda hard.
1) theses sleds are a little hard on gas don't know why and they tend to wear clutch parts faster do to bad harmonics.
2) sounds like someone did their own clutch kit. I would recommend this setup. turk set up for 600 twins. A 50/44 helix (micro belmont) green secondary spring at 60deg, and 8AB weights with 2.4g rivets in all holes. It's a good setup. Or you could use the setup you have or go back to stock. It's all up to you.
What is your engagement with current setup?
Finding info on these 600 twins is kinda hard.
1) theses sleds are a little hard on gas don't know why and they tend to wear clutch parts faster do to bad harmonics.
2) sounds like someone did their own clutch kit. I would recommend this setup. turk set up for 600 twins. A 50/44 helix (micro belmont) green secondary spring at 60deg, and 8AB weights with 2.4g rivets in all holes. It's a good setup. Or you could use the setup you have or go back to stock. It's all up to you.
What is your engagement with current setup?
yamahamark
Member
I would also recommend reed spacers or stopper notch and then head gasket or peel 1 or 2 layers from head gasket if theses things are not already done.
Are the diameters and specs the same between the weights and rollers for the BW and CA spider part in the clutch. I don't want to order something that won't work
yamahamark
Member
Order the parts for the 98 sx 600 to get you back on track with for clutching.
That 8bw spider is for a vk540 and 8cr weights are for 700mm and 600 xt and xtc witch is different from the sx clutching.
That 8bw spider is for a vk540 and 8cr weights are for 700mm and 600 xt and xtc witch is different from the sx clutching.
How is it that the 8BW spider is for a VK540? I have probably 8 clutches with 8BW spiders and I have never owned a vk540.
I had it in my mind that the 8BW spider was used after 98, save the SRX, and utilized the better roller pins. Curious.
Yamaha used 2 different roller pin (axle) diameters for these clutches, and thus 2 different roller bushing ID's. I've never directly compared the 8BW & 8CA spiders to each other, but:
The 8BW spider likely has the smaller version, 8mm dia.
The 8CA spider likely has the larger version, 9mm dia.
Do you have a way to accurately measure your pin OD in a location where hasn't worn at all? You may be able to reuse your pin if it does not show any measurable wear where the roller rides (measure with micrometer or caliper), it is usually the roller bushing that takes the brunt of the wear.
The 8BW spider dates back to the 1994 Vmax 500-600-750 product lines, and it just so happens that 8BW is the prefix of the 1994 Vmax4 snowmobile model number. This spider was used well into the 2000's, just not on all of the sleds that used this type of clutch.
What you can do for your new rollers is to find the 98 Vmax 600SX roller OD spec, and order new rollers with that OD and in the pin size you just measured above (likely 8mm). If you need pins, order those to match as well. Here are 2 pages to help:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/AAATuning Chart/Specs.htm
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/drivespecs/Rivets_Rollers.htm
Weights all take the same pin diameter, and are thus interchangeable over a very wide range of years and updates of these clutches, from the early 90's well into the 2000's. Source the weights and rivets for your model and you'll be well on your way, you may want to pick up a new spring as well, especially if yours is not the same color code as spec for your sled. And a new Yamaha belt if yours is worn.
Also note that Yamaha has 2 different spring lengths for this style clutch, and these correspond with the cap/cover style, either SHORT or TALL. Your sled would have a short cover originally, and likely still does based on the spider application, unless the cover has been changed (the covers do interchange in combination with the proper spring). Post up a pic of your cover if the style is in question.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/drivespecs/primary_springs.htm
As long as your clutch is sound, with no cracks or damage, there is no reason you can't use it by giving it a good cleaning, inspection, and replacing any worn out moving parts. Clean it (and the secondary) in the dishwasher or in a bath of solvent/mineral spirits, check & clean all the nooks and crannies especially where bushings and moving parts are located. Make sure the plastic slider bushings inside the towers are not too worn or cracked, slide the moveable sheave up and down and rock it back and forth. It should slide smoothly without hangups or drag, and with it's age it will likely rock a little but you don't want it sloppy like the center bushing is worn out or missing. Put the spring cap/cover back on without the spring and do the same checks as above, it should still slide smoothly but the rocking should be noticeably reduced, if it is sloppy at all you need to look closely at all of the bushings.
Lastly, use only Yamaha replacement parts even if they cost more, the aftermarket stuff is low quality and you will regret using it, clutching is not a good place to try to save a few bucks on inferior components.
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yamahamark
Member
Disregard post #6 I had a long day yesterday and was quite thinking. Lol.
Thanks for the starting points. I'll measure the roller collar today
Clutch parts should be in Thursday. I'm going with an all stock setup. Planning on cleaning clutch in a parts washer. When putting it back together should any parts be oil or lubed and with what. Is using never seize on the collars of rollers,weights and shaft alright.
My parts and clutch remover tool were delivered today.
Bad news, while removing the clutch the end of the tool bent like an S and screwed up the threads. I can get the clutch bolt to start by about a 1/4 to half a turn. My question is, is it as simple as cleaning the threads with a tap or is there something else I need to be concerned about.
Bad news, while removing the clutch the end of the tool bent like an S and screwed up the threads. I can get the clutch bolt to start by about a 1/4 to half a turn. My question is, is it as simple as cleaning the threads with a tap or is there something else I need to be concerned about.
Try to clean the threads with a tap first and see how it goes. If you don't remove too much material from the threads in the crank (chips coming from the tapping process), you may be ok. Clean all of the chips out of the crank, use a small magnet that fits in the hole or a magnetized screwdriver, blow out with compressed air, maybe even spray it down in there with cleaner/solvent before blowing to get everything out. Try the bolt in the "new" threads and see how sloppy it is, if you thread it in about an inch+ and the bolt is sloppy/wobbly you may have a problem, if the bolt is held firm you'll probably be ok.
Did you buy one of the cheap import pullers, or a Yamaha or USA manufactured puller? Return it and get your money back if it's the cheapy, else cut it off below the threads and use it to remove clutches with the water/oil/grease method (search here on TY if needed).
These clutches run dry on all moving parts. Any oil or lube with just attract dirt and belt dust. The only things to lube are the splined end of the jackshaft (lightly coat it with grease), and the attaching bolt threads for both clutches (the bolt discussed above that goes into the crank, and the aluminum bolt that threads into the jackshaft, barely coat the threads with oil, you don't need much).
Did you buy one of the cheap import pullers, or a Yamaha or USA manufactured puller? Return it and get your money back if it's the cheapy, else cut it off below the threads and use it to remove clutches with the water/oil/grease method (search here on TY if needed).
These clutches run dry on all moving parts. Any oil or lube with just attract dirt and belt dust. The only things to lube are the splined end of the jackshaft (lightly coat it with grease), and the attaching bolt threads for both clutches (the bolt discussed above that goes into the crank, and the aluminum bolt that threads into the jackshaft, barely coat the threads with oil, you don't need much).
I'd like to thank everyone who gave advice. My parts are on and sled runs great. Primary is engaging at 3300-3400 rpms what a difference this made. Every ounce in awhile when slowing down it loses power/throttle response, if you let it come to a idle then get back into it it runs fine. Would that be the secondary clutch sticking?
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
It sounds like a dirty secondary & weak secondary spring.