helix/backshift/clutch?

you gave a part # for a short cover clutch,you said 90501-555j9-00 correct?are you running a short cover clutch on that sled?if not, you want a tall cover spring.that could be the problem right there!!!
 

I left the primary alone for now. Only changed the secondary spring and helix. 45 degree set at 60. Something is not right I can smell burnt rubber I am guessing the belt is slipping. The belt only has 300 miles on it or so. But I did change it for a new one. You could see spot on it where it did get hot.

I had some new problems last night with it over heating I started a new post for that. I might just take it in and say fix it. Since I do not have a lot of time right now.
 
is the track too tight?i like to run mine a little loose.as long as it doesnt ratchet, youll be fine.that could make it run hot too.
 
A couple of bucks said:
I know this might sound trivial, grab the Dremel w/ a polishing bonnet and some red Tripoli. Those ramps can easily be polished to mirror finish. You can get the finish pretty good with a polishing wheel attachment for the bench grinder. But it's the speed of the Dremel (35,000) that'll make it a "slippery slope".
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When I have done this, back shift improves. Doesn't seem to do anything for upshift.
 
My riding season is pretty much over since it is going to be 50 here on Friday. Snow is already melting. I am going to take it to a shop and let them check it out for the over heating issue and clutching while we still have some snow. During the summer I will get those ramps polished up when I find some time. Working 55-60 hours a week right now. I am thinking since it will already be there have them slap in the 4.5g rivets in both holes so that's done. I am also thinking I might try that 47 degree helix set at 80. Maybe I will get lucky and have a big late snow fall yet.
 
Explain the overheating issue. Is the coolant system filled up and free of air? You really shouldn't be overheating if you are riding on snow.
 
Sorry no I never use my brakes it is pretty seldom. I did however grab the lever once or twice on my last ride missed a few turns. Us Iowans need to learn how to mark some trails better. With that being said I did wonder if the caliper was hanging up for a moment or two.

I did start another post on the over heating thing. I went about 23 miles to the next town by where I live. I was following the trail in that town in about 6 blocks the temp light came on. It was on snow but slow going. I road the same trail the week before and no issue. So I shut the sled down and got my trailer. While waiting for my ride. I checked the coolant in the overflow it was right at top but not over flowing. I pulled all 3 plugs. 2 plugs looked ok maybe a little lean. I have stock jetting and stock exhaust. The other plug was black and starting to foul out. When the sled cooled off the overflow was right where it should be. I started the sled took the radiator cap off and I cant tell if anything is flowing and I did not see any air bubbles.
 
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The first pic is clutch side. The next 2 pics are the same plug. Both plugs look this way. It is black on one side. and a brownish on the other side. Could that be from burning a little coolant??

IMG_0149.JPGIMG_0150.JPGIMG_0151.JPG
 
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Next time the overheat indicator comes on, check the temp with your hand at all accessible points in the heat exchangers and hoses. If you can keep your hand on the exchanger and hoses it is likely not overheating. It may simply be a wiring or a sensor issue. It doesn't sound like it really overheated. I don't think you are burning any coolant, does something make you suspect that? That plug just looks rich to me. Is it wet at all, or just dry sooty stuff?
 
No the plug are not wet at all. I have wondered about the wiring/sensor. I just don't get why one plug would be black and sooty. Then the other 2 be black on half of the plug then brownish on the other half. I just think that's weird. Thought maybe those 2 cylinders might be getting a little coolant in there. The sled just seemed like it was struggling a little bit. Something is off just don't know what.

My other sx 700 all 3 plugs look identical. Both sleds are set up the same.
 
next time you have the carbs off, check to see what jets are in each carb.the factory ran a bigger jet on the clutch side.the other two were the same size.as far as the plugs being black on one side, and brown on the other is because they are turned in the cylinder where the transfer ports take in fuel and air.if you indicate your plugs, meaning you mark them with a sharpie where the plug should be in a straight line in the cylinder and tighten them then you will see what i mean.most plugs do not line up perfect in the cylinder, they are at an angle with the transfer ports, and thats why they are darker on one side than the other.not a big deal.but the best thing ive tried in the sx engines is what mr viper told me to do.142.5 mains in all three cylinders and a set of reed spacers, and drop the needles by putting the washer on top with the other one.made a huge difference in performance.you said you did the reed stopper notch correct?i would take the carbs off and take a look at the reeds.im leary of the reed stopper notch, because it weakens the stoppers and could end up breaking, and going into the reeds from what i have heard.just my opinion,id give it a shot,you have nothing to loose but performance!!!
 
i learned this when i started to clutch my sled to bring the rpm down also.i was over reving, and when i started putting power to the ground by getting the right rpm, i had a bog at about 7000 rpm.thats when mr viper gave me the awesome advise that solved the problem!!!
 
Black rouge on the bench buffer then red rouge w/ the Dremel. In the second picture you can see a thumb print.
I got out the Finish Comparator after it was done. It was at a 63 and it is now easily a 4. Very close to a 2L.
 

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A couple of bucks said:
When I have done this, back shift improves. Doesn't seem to do anything for upshift.
Click to expand...
Mabey someone w/ more clutch experience can chime in.
If doing this helps somewhat w/ back shift , is it because when secondary spring is unloading, there isn't resistance on the the polished ramps? Heck that's about the only plausible thing that I've thought of.
 
Wow they shine like chrome. I might have to try that stuff on the motorcycle too. NICE
 
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