SRX-possible clutch/springs/belt issues? HELP!

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nick5oh

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Messages
359
Location
Hunstville, Ontario
Took the sled out, 99SRX with m10, all stock except bender can, 1.25" hacksaw with 96 studs. Could not go faster than 74mph (gps and speedo). Sled not hitting peak rpm. On a stand it went up over 8000, shifted down and started climbing, went up to 180kmh. Marked the primary sheave with a marker and the belt wore the line off pretty good, pic below. Went out on the lake and only got 75mph, felt like im hitting a wall, no track spin, heavy wet snow (not sure if that will kill the speed), it went up 8k rpm ish, shifted but would not climb back very quick at all, and just didn't feel right. On a snow covered icy road I have been 85mph ish on speedo wasn't spinning but no god reading that pull.
Sooooo.......could my clutches have an issue?
The belt is not new and looks to me a bit worn on the edges. I can post a pic of it later tonight.
Possible my springs are weak? 4000kms original springs y-w-y primary and red secondary. Clutches are bone stock.
Track tension is way looser than m10 suggests, followed a hyfax saver write up I found on this site.
Sled engine and drive wise is all stock from clutching to gearing to drivers everything stock but just the m10 skid. image.jpg
Thanks guys!
 
What kind of weird felling. Shaking? Bucking? When were the clutches cleaned? Moving freely? Did it feel like you were running out of fuel? Carbs cleaned power valves adjusted? Not broken cables? Servo moving? Easy to test on stand. Pull servo cover, start sled, let idle and then choke out. When the idle drops to 900 and below servo should open up. If there is any twitching to the servo it could be a cables to tight.
 
RB2001SRX700 said:
What kind of weird felling. Shaking? Bucking? When were the clutches cleaned? Moving freely? Did it feel like you were running out of fuel? Carbs cleaned power valves adjusted? Not broken cables? Servo moving? Easy to test on stand. Pull servo cover, start sled, let idle and then choke out. When the idle drops to 900 and below servo should open up. If there is any twitching to the servo it could be a cables to tight.
Click to expand...

No bucking or shaking. Just no rpm nor speed increase. At least not like it should.
Clutches cleaned start of this season, only 800 kms so far.
Doesn't feel like fuel issue.
Power valves cleaned. Haven't checked adjustment yet but no slop in cables, not too tight either. Cables not broken no pull through on power valves.
Carbs not cleaned yet. Sled runs amazing except this wot on the lake thing.
I will check for cable twitch tonight and possibly adjust if time permits. If I choke it to 900rpm, servo opens and if I shut engine down servo will stay open correct? I will of course mark open on the servo that way if it moves I can turn it to open position by hand. I've heard a lot of stuff about doing it the jumper wire way and by the sounds of it I prefer that way. but whatever works I guess
 
nick5oh said:
No bucking or shaking. Just no rpm nor speed increase. At least not like it should.
Clutches cleaned start of this season, only 800 kms so far.
Doesn't feel like fuel issue.
Power valves cleaned. Haven't checked adjustment yet but no slop in cables, not too tight either. Cables not broken no pull through on power valves.
Carbs not cleaned yet. Sled runs amazing except this wot on the lake thing.
I will check for cable twitch tonight and possibly adjust if time permits. If I choke it to 900rpm, servo opens and if I shut engine down servo will stay open correct? I will of course mark open on the servo that way if it moves I can turn it to open position by hand. I've heard a lot of stuff about doing it the jumper wire way and by the sounds of it I prefer that way. but whatever works I guess
Click to expand...


Yes servo will stay open. While your in the carbs check for float adjustment. Also sound silly but make sure your carbs are opening all the way. Sleds run different on the stand vs the ground. Also check the routing of the throttle cable. Some go over the carbs not around. Found that out the hard way. Kind of the same issues with wot issue. Found out on a 02 vmax the cable runs over the air box in that channel.
 
So to update this a bit.
Measured belt and found it was pooched from what I've read on this forum. It measured at 32.7mm. New is 34.5mm and I believe wear limit is 32.5mm. Track/belt would not creep at all. The belt was sitting too low in the secondary sheave as well. Put new belt on and the track/belt now creep. Also the belt is in the sheave 2.5mm higher than the sheave. I know it's a bit higher than the ideal 1.5mm but I haven't revved up the sled too hard yet just a couple throttle blips to get things moving and seated. Hopefully my issues are fixed!
Still wondering about the springs both pri and sec? Are mine worn? When are they dead. I've got 4000kms and it's a 99. Original springs still on it. Should I change em for what it's worth?
 
New springs won't hurt that's for sure but, take a look at your tunnel, see if track/studs are rubbing against tunnel/protectors slowing you down and creating your weird noise! You may have to dial in the track tension while working with the M-10...
 
Your springs are 17 years old and have been compressed 99.9% of there life. While they are performing the function as intended, they have lost their "snap" and are hurting performance.
 
Sounds good guys. I'll replace the springs and I will also take a look at the tunnel protectors. I did see black rubber marks on them while I was under there. I will clean them off and see if they run again once I ride.
If they are rubbing are there different ones I should get or is there a modification I can do to mine? Are they riveted or bolted on? Thanks guys.
Oh....also to add. I had a nasty crack in one part of my belt as well. Glad I swapped it out before explosion :)
 
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