Hey, I'm new to this site, looked through a lot of the other posts to find my issue but came up short. I just bought a 1997 venture 600 with smart carbs on it, bought it from an older fellow original owner and machine hadn't run in 4 years. Before I even tried it, I pulled the carbs and cleaned them, it has 157.5 main jets didnt look at the pilot size,drained all the fuel and filled it with fresh super, opened the air box and cleaned it, wen't through the clutches, seem good except it has a pink spring in the secondary and I belive it should be brown. Checked the exhaust for any animal nest,all good. Compression is about 115 both sides. Air box filter was chewed up, one is on order, so installed a temporary fix,also the filter in the cab was starting to come apart so replaced it. So started the sled, started right away, went for a test drive, up to half throttle was good but when it going to WOT it was like it was going off a Rev limiter or missing, pulled the temporary air box filter out and it's better but it's still there, ohmed all the solenoids on the carbs, all the same at 65ohms, checked them for operation , they all seem to be working. Plugs are nice and tanned, it needs a new belt which will be in this week, not sure if that could cause my issue as I noticed the peak RPM was about 8200 at WOT. So I was going to leave it alone until I got the new belt and proper filter, but it seems to me there is still an issue as it still has a miss with the filter removed. Any help would be appreciated.
Maim
Super Moderator
is this a twin or tripple sled? if it is a twin like i suspect, it is overreving as peak should be 7800rpm.
Yes it is a 600 twin, and the missing is also happening before peak RPM.
tripplec
New member
These sleds have TORS, which prevent run away or a smart kill equivalent which somehow stops the engine from running full RPMS. I would look at that just to be sure its not activating somehow when you're at above normal trottle again. Maybe a faulty switch in the bars. I am not sure. Do you have service manual? The adjustment is not difficult according to it but other than fuel flow I can't think of anything else that would cause that situation.
Edit
I believe it kicks in if the engine is above 3000RPM if it thinks there is no ride working the throttle.
Edit
I believe it kicks in if the engine is above 3000RPM if it thinks there is no ride working the throttle.
Ya, when I first bought the sled a couple weeks ago the TORS was acting up so I bypassed it temporarily until I cleaned the switch now it's ok, made sure the throttle cable was also adjusted properly. I don't have the service manual for it. Im going to change the fuel filter as well this week when I try the new belt and air box filter. One other thing I haven't done is pull the fuel pump apart, might be worth while.
tripplec
New member
I sent you a PM !!
Maim
Super Moderator
try the new belt 1st as that can affect a ovverrev. might want to clean the clutches and throw a new primary spring at it if it is still over reving.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Put the new belt and filter on had some improvement, but now that the cold weather is here the miss / hesitation is almost gone, could the 157.5 jets still be too big?
tripplec
New member
It would depend on whether the oem keys are what's in it or were these put in to bypass the smart carb control. In which case some of the cables should be disconnected.
A couple of bucks
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I can't imagine that your mains are too big. They are after all 1 size smaller than stock.the miss / hesitation is almost gone, could the 157.5 jets still be too big?
Have you notched the stopper yet. If you have not, that would more than likely clear EVERYTHING up.
What are your fuel screws at. 2 turns is stock for your sled.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-8DJ-13616-00-00.html
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I'm not familiar with nothing the stopper.
Screws are at 2 turns.
Screws are at 2 turns.
A couple of bucks
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Picture of 2 reed cages w/ the reed stopper notched.I'm not familiar with nothing the stopper.
Attachments
yamahamark
Member
The notch is easy to do but if your not comfortable doing it you can just buy the spacers.
Ok I see what you mean now, is there a certain spec on depth of the notch?
OK, found the spec, I'll try this today.
OK, found the spec, I'll try this today.
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Just did the reed stopper, made a big improvement, I'll see see how it performs through out the day.
A couple of bucks
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Just look at my picture and do the same. DO NOT make any "corners" on the notch. Make the notch with a smooth flowing line.
Think of it while it's in the cylinder. Vibrating like a son-of-a-gun. You don't want vibrations to focus its energys on the corner of a cut. Which will produce a crack.
Any more, I do this on stainless stops. Link in post #11.
Think of it while it's in the cylinder. Vibrating like a son-of-a-gun. You don't want vibrations to focus its energys on the corner of a cut. Which will produce a crack.
Any more, I do this on stainless stops. Link in post #11.
A couple of bucks
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Now that I took the time to really read this post, I now realize you've just did this to the stock galvanized ones. Do your self a favor and order stainless ones(at least 2). Once you have those notched, swap them out. The notched galvanized stops have been known to fatigue & crack. Subsequently, they get ingested and wreak havoc inside the combustion chamber.Just did the reed stopper, made a big improvement, I'll see see how it performs through out the day.
Alright I'll get some new stops. Just put 120 kms on it, tha little bit of a gurgle it has is gone but anything over 85kms hour it's still making what I can only describe as a wamp wamp wamp, sounds like it's got a Rev limiter.
Maybe I have a clutching issue?
Maybe I have a clutching issue?
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