primary weights and helix combos

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Jan 22, 2012
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berlin n.h.
would like to pick some of your brains on a few things about primary weights and helix angles.in a post from mr viper, he said that he likes to tell people that if you are using heavy weights that he would use smaller helix angles.lighter weights, he would use larger helix angles.one thing i would like to know is, is there a certain amount of clutch weight to helix angle?example,i am running 44 grams of weight per arm in a 2000 sx 700 engine with a 52-44 helix.if i add 3 grams per arm would this helix still work for me?or should i pick a smaller helix angle?next question,say im running 8ca weights in my clutch.would it be ok to leave the tip hole empty and run a more agressive helix like the 52-44 instead of using a rivet in the tip?or would i be better off putting in a rivet and using a less agressive helix?im running my sled in 1000 ft drag racing with my buddies,and trying to get to 1000 ft. before my buddies thundercat.i have had some help from another member with a clutch setup for next year. i was running 89-l weights, 44 grams per arm,with the 52-44 helix,and 23-39 gearing and was beating the t cat to 800 ft.my new setup is the 8ca weights at 47-48 grams per arm,www spring, and back to 23-40 gearing.what rivet placement would work the best,and what helix?right now i have a 3.1 in the first hole,and the tip is empty, and im at 47 grams per arm.i know that testing is the only way to really know what works best, but im open to suggestions from everyone.im trying to get a big jump off the line, and hold him off to 1000 ft.i know that it can be done,im just not dialed in enough yet.the thundercat is not dialed in,it is just as he bought it and will do just over 100 in 1000 ft.i need to get there quicker to hold him off.any takers?
 

i should also add that i was running bender pipes with the 89-l weights, and now im back to stock pipe with bored silencer.
 
its o.k. , ill figure it out.just gonna have to test, and test, and test.then test some more.but one thing i know for shure is,i will get that t cat in 1000 ft next year!!!with or without help, and when i do,ill be content.
 
Testing is the only way.. I have run 8CAs with single pipe. I will try and dig up my book and post what I have, it may help you for starters.
 
Basically what I found when trying to clutch something is that you load the weights as much as you can for peak rpm and get your engagement where you want it. Then play with helix's and springs. Its really a balance of acceleration, peak rpm and back shift. You may have a set up that works great on hard pack or ice then find out its a total turd in softer stuff. Its a bit of give and take. Its just like jetting in the way that if you start getting into tuning parts that make no sense you have to look at another component to change. For instance, if you were tuning a Vmax 500 and you are able to pull a 60 degree helix. Chances are you need more weight in the clutch and a smaller angle helix. Get what I'm say'n??
 
yes i do, at least i think so,lol.i have a thirst for knowledge that will probably never be quenched!!!i love working on sleds to make them faster,quicker.performance has been in my blood since i was a child.i work on everything,cars,trucks,bikes,wheelers,anything with an engine.clutching is something that takes time to perfect if you dont understand how it works.i think im finally getting it.i ask alot of questions, because many of you have good advise,and it helps me to understand what works, and what doesnt.its really awesome to have help with a specific problem from people who have done this for years and years,and know how to solve it.my sled was a pooch before i started learning about clutching,now im rippin because of the help from others, and trying things on my own.still, its not enough till i get my buddies t cat to 1000 ft.soo, load up the weights, and use a smaller helix?how much clutch weight can a stock red head pull?what helix?this is the stuff i want to know.
 
thanks for the info, this is the kind of stuff i like to hear about.i wish i could get in everyones notes, and read all the combos that they have tried.
I found one of our set up we had in a 2001 SX700. We ran 8CA weights with 2.7 in the inner hole, 2.4 in the outer, G-G-G primary srping with a 50/42 helix , older white secondary spring in 0-2... should be a really great start.
 
so, would you put a set of weights that would require the highest total force spring to keep the rpm at peak,and then use a helix that would match the primary?like a oso spring with 60 gram weights?
Basically what I found when trying to clutch something is that you load the weights as much as you can for peak rpm and get your engagement where you want it. Then play with helix's and springs. Its really a balance of acceleration, peak rpm and back shift. You may have a set up that works great on hard pack or ice then find out its a total turd in softer stuff. Its a bit of give and take. Its just like jetting in the way that if you start getting into tuning parts that make no sense you have to look at another component to change. For instance, if you were tuning a Vmax 500 and you are able to pull a 60 degree helix. Chances are you need more weight in the clutch and a smaller angle helix. Get what I'm say'n??
 
I couldnt even tell you what a starting point for a 700 would be. If it were me, I would go back to stock, then make changes from there.
 
stock didnt cut it for me,over reved badly, and didnt pull for shit.ive tried 6 different weights, and so far 89-l worked the best,now im gonna try 8ca and try a few different helix angles.i guess what im looking for as far as info goes is,what works best?heavy weights and small helix angles, or lighter weights and more aggressive helix angles?im running 1000 ft on hard pack and ice!!!im looking for very hard acceleration and 105 mph in 1000 ft.
 
I applaud you for your continuing effort. If your friend ever spends 1/4 of the time you have and starts to get his Tcat dialed in your done. Maybe he won't but when those those things get dialed in they run hard. The ones I was around were piped and well ported so maybe they were faster than most but in those days racing them with any 700 would have been like bringing a knife to a gunfight. Continue to race him soon so maybe you get some early bragging rights. Just for the record I have never owned anything but Yamaha. Just rode with some really fast people that had no brand loyalty.

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as of now, he is over reving badly, and cant get the t cat to hook up lol.he knows what he has to do, but just hasnt done anything about it yet.i tried his sled, and its definitely faster than my 700, but my sled handles 10 times better,and takes off pretty good out of the hole.next season i will be trying 8ca weights and a few different springs and helix angles.once i get him to 1000 ft, im done.pretty sure that ill have the quickest,fastest 700 in my area by the end of next season.time will tell.just have to get out there and test test test !!!im definitely a yamaha guy all the way,nothing handles like a sxr chassis im my opinion.love these old sleds!!!
I applaud you for your continuing effort. If your friend ever spends 1/4 of the time you have and starts to get his Tcat dialed in your done. Maybe he won't but when those those things get dialed in they run hard. The ones I was around were piped and well ported so maybe they were faster than most but in those days racing them with any 700 would have been like bringing a knife to a gunfight. Continue to race him soon so maybe you get some early bragging rights. Just for the record I have never owned anything but Yamaha. Just rode with some really fast people that had no brand loyalty.

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You are right , if he can't hook up you can win that battle. They do handle like tanks.

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his idea is shaving a 1/4 inch off of his track to get traction on the ice.his track is fully studded.probably smoke him in the trails after that,lol.
You are right , if he can't hook up you can win that battle. They do handle like tanks.

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