daddy scored a deal on 2 mountain max sleds! stoked!

trailer tire question
I have a 3-place sled bed (drive on/drive off) its a large trailer (dual axle)
I am looking at the Kenda Loadstar 205/65-10's at walmart

what load range should I pay for? C, D, or E ?

walmart seems to only carry 4-ply, 6-ply and 10-ply

I have had a good experience with loadstar on a dirtbike trailer

2nd question is that the trailer seems to sit high on these tires currently
is there any advantage to going with a lower height tire?
the ramp angles would be better, but snow clearance becomes a problem?
 
I'd go w/ the D load rating based on your requirements. They are 8 ply rated, but do not necessarily have 8 plys dependent on construction and material ..... IE, strap bead or apex bead, nylon or poly, nolo or synthetic.... Etc etc.
 
thanks guys for all the help

I measured the wheel hole pattern at 4" with 5 lugs (more difficult to find than 4.5")
so it looks like I'll be using the old rims
 
I think that measurement is center lug to center lug so that may be the difference when you measured it.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
I drilled the can on the 600
starts first pull now
and idles like a champ
I still have oil light on

any suggestions on helmets?
I see a Bell SX-1 with ability to add a breath box....do these work?

I also see a Scorpion VX-34 "snow", but I don't see any "snow" features like a breath box
 
I have a water/temp light flashing on the 700 MM
I took a chance and swapped in a brand new water temp sender unit
but the light is still slow blinking

any ideas?
 
My son sx 600 had a broken wire that ran under the handle bar pad down the volume. Just an idea.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Most likely the the wires at the plug on top of the sensor. They will look intact, but are actually broken. Yamaha had a fix kit for these a few years back but I am sure the parts are now obsolete. You can mend what you have with some patience and diligence and some weatherpak parts.

All this only if your throwing the temp sensor code.
 
huh, is it safe to run with light blinking?

2 wires and some shrink tape shouldn't be a big deal at all

the 600 sled has the oil light on....any ideas there? I was going to check the oil cable free play?

thanks guys!
 
I don't see a part # for those wires
are they just part of the main wire harness system?

are they just brittle and cracked? and sending a fault code?
 
Most likely broken where the wires enter the connector. They seemed to bend/fatigue at that connection. You wont find the part number on any microfische, it was a dealer service bulletin dealing with the issue. Part#8EK-TSCON-KT-00.

Either way, you need to address this if the code your throwing is the temp sensor code because if the temp sensor isnt working properly, when will you know if the overheat code is correct?

As for the oil light, most likely the sensor in the tank is stuck or bad. Simple ohm tests to troubleshoot, but most likely your needing a replacement.
 
I love you man - thanks for all the help

I've looked at the oil tank briefly , it did not seem obvious how to access the oil level sensor
I thought I'd be able to see it ? full of oil right now!
 
Oil level sensor is a friction fit rubber plug ribbed for the tank's pleasure. Grip it, twist up and pull, and your there. But, before you do that, just unplug the electrical connector and check continuity. If there is no continuity with the tank full, the sensor is bad. Dont think that ones a floater, it works on resistance between the two metal bars based on electrical currents.
 
looks like I have to remove the air box and then the oil tank to access the sensor?

I checked continuity on the thermosensor plug and wires, got a low ohm reading but not 0
the new sensor tested at higher ohms than the old one
but I did not check them in boiling water
 
Just remove the airbox to access the oillevel sensor. Its there on the left as your standing on the sled near the steering stem. Your beatin your meat if your testing the coolant sensor on the sled, you need something a bit warmer. But, you can test the continuity of the connector's wires. If you dont have a sharp probe, dont bother, but you can easily probe the wire prior to the connector and continuity check it with the plug while wiggling the wires.
 
I got it!

snowdad - I think it was your post on another forum about the radiator cap?
so I swapped the caps on the 2 machines and the red light is GONE!!! (blinked twice on startup and never came back on)
the other sled with the "bad cap" did not throw a fault / light code

also - swapped out the oil level sender and fixed that fault code too - happy! $23 fix

so now I want to buy 2 brand new radiator caps....is there a part reference number for an auto part application that works?
should I just bring one over to Advanced Auto?

I drilled the air boxes on both machines while I had the top of the airbox off
the 600 seems to respond better to that than the 700
700 now has a little stumble off idle
600 revves out very smooth

thanks guys!

Oliver in Lakewood Colorado
 
Likely seeing a lean bog due to the extra air. Might be able to turn out the fuel screws a touch to tune it out. I had to go to slightly smaller air jets in one to tune the bog out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top