drew24
New member
Nice job. Its not so bad once you get into it. I would recommend next time you have them out to replace the float bowl screws with some allen head screws. I am pretty sure they are 4mm x 12mm. I hate those Philips head screws.lol
steveg_nh
New member
I agree. I was thinking just that, that the float bowl screws didn't seem like they had many more removals left in the heads. One was already replaced, I'm assuming due to a stripped head. I will match them up next time they are out and replace them. Does the material matter given the aluminum carb cases? Thinking about dissimilar metals, but don't think it would matter in this use.
drew24
New member
I used stainless screws in mine because I already had them on hand. The zinc plated screws would be fine too.
steveg_nh
New member
I'll have to see what pitch the threads are too.
merc9193
Member
You can get them at Fastenal, Item # MS2530012A20000 M4-0.7 x 12 S/S socket head cap screw. How did you get the fuel filter out of the tank?
steveg_nh
New member
Awesome, thanks!
For the fuel filter, I tried to get it out the filler first, but the hose was a bit too short, and it broke upon stretching. I read a few threads on TY, and found some tips (so I'm not taking credit for this, but it's the process I used which I found on here):
1. Drain gas from tank
2. Remove airbox
3. Remove two flange bolts on the gas tank suction fitting (left side of sled, just above fuel pump)
4. Pull hose out from bottom of tank
5. Remove hose from end of suction fitting that was inside tank.
6. Tie long string to end of hose (so you can use it to fish hose back through lower tank opening)
7. Use hanger or something to fish out the filter from tank fill hole (careful not to grab the gas level pickup wire)
8. Swap filter and drop back in tank
9. Pull string back through lower hole exposing end of hose
10. Reattach hose to suction fitting with spring clamp
11. Reattach suction fitting to tank with 2 flange bolts (my bolts had red threadlocker on it, I opted for blue on reinstall)
Most of the info I got was in this thread: http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php/102793-fuel-filter-for-dirty-pilots-jets-3-16x
For the fuel filter, I tried to get it out the filler first, but the hose was a bit too short, and it broke upon stretching. I read a few threads on TY, and found some tips (so I'm not taking credit for this, but it's the process I used which I found on here):
1. Drain gas from tank
2. Remove airbox
3. Remove two flange bolts on the gas tank suction fitting (left side of sled, just above fuel pump)
4. Pull hose out from bottom of tank
5. Remove hose from end of suction fitting that was inside tank.
6. Tie long string to end of hose (so you can use it to fish hose back through lower tank opening)
7. Use hanger or something to fish out the filter from tank fill hole (careful not to grab the gas level pickup wire)
8. Swap filter and drop back in tank
9. Pull string back through lower hole exposing end of hose
10. Reattach hose to suction fitting with spring clamp
11. Reattach suction fitting to tank with 2 flange bolts (my bolts had red threadlocker on it, I opted for blue on reinstall)
Most of the info I got was in this thread: http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php/102793-fuel-filter-for-dirty-pilots-jets-3-16x
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drew24
New member
That's the exact way I changed mine last season. My hose was not long enough to pull it up enough to do it through the fill.
steveg_nh
New member
Just grabbed some screws at fastenal for next time. Didn't want to buy 50 SS ones so I bought the black oxide. $6 for 20. 
Should be fine as the bottoms of the carbs really don't get wet.
Should be fine as the bottoms of the carbs really don't get wet.
Dab of never seize on threads...
steveg_nh
New member
Just double checked throttle play and oil cable play. throttle was perfect at about 1.8mm, and oil cable needed a small adjustment, but right on the money now at about 21mm. 