02 Sx viper runs fine then bogs

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yamahakid88

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Joined
Feb 2, 2015
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25
Location
Illinois
Hey guyys, just picked up an 02 viper a couple weeks ago. We finally got enough snow up in northern Illinois so I could try it out, rode it around the corn fields for about 5 min and i was gassing it hard and all the sudden it bogged when i went to give it more gas and it sounded like it was about to die and it caught itself again and idled normally. However right after this I gave it gas to get going again and it bogged. I let it run for a couple minutes and it finally was back to normal and I was able to get going again. Couple minutes later the same thing happens. I gave it half choke and it will die if I keep it at half. Sled has 9100 miles on it, previous owner said he put new pistons in 1000 miles ago, it also has triple pipes which he says are jetted for. Please help guys! Sounds like maybe a fuel pump to me
 
Clean your carbs. Then check and adjust your power valves. Because of bad gas and ethanol, most people clean their carbs annually. It's a good practice for many reasons. At the very least, it allows you to catch problems before they become serious. There are some good articles in the "TY Tech" section explaining how to do this. This is something you shouldn't rush, especially the first time. Take your time and do it right.

A maintenance manual is extremely helpful and is really a must imo.

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php/103026-Carb-Cleaning?highlight=Carb+Cleaning
 
clean your carbs and adjust/clean your power valves, only run super through it for gas. Regular gas these days makes those sleds run like crap
 
Ya Im trying to pull the carbs off right now to clean them, accidentally messed with the oil cable adjustment so now I have to work on that aswell :S How does the choke cable come off the rack? cant seem to get enough slack to pull the cable end off the arm
 
Good practice to clean carbs and power valves anyways, but I also wonder if what you were experiencing was the TORS activating.
For the choke, make sure the lever is fully closed. I then usually resort to removing the adjuster completely and then removing the cable. It's tight for sure.
 
I usually remove the choke cable and everything by taking the nut off by the dash and leaving choke hooked to carbs a lot easier I think
 
That oil cable is very important like YAMMIEGOD said. Make sure you adjust it back to specs before you start it up.

Once you start is up, adjust the idle (1800+-100rpm) and shut it down. Then re-adjust the throttle free play (1-2mm), and oil cable (20.5+-1mm) in that order.
 
is that oil spec always a hard number or can sleds differ? Adjusted cable per service manual but it smokes a lot and fouls plugs if I do trail riding. How does one tell if its where it should be?
 
That spec just gets you in range. To dial it in you need to fill your gas tank. Mark your oil level. Ride the sled as you normally would. Refill Gas tank and oil tank to your Mark. Note how much of each and do the math to get the ratio you're using. Adjust from there. I shoot for 50:1. A quart of oil per tank of gas is in the ballpark.

There are a number of reasons besides oil that could be causing you to foul plugs.
Running rich (fuel not oil)
Bad plug caps
Weak stator
Low compression
Bad reeds
Just to name a few
 
Ok ill do that guys, for adjusting the oil cable, i pull the one wnd out of the adjuster and measure how much cable I can see correct?
 
For throttle free play, the gap between the throttle base and the throttle need to be adjusted so that the throttle is not tight up against the throttle base. If it is, your TORS (Throttle Over Ride System) will kick in. This retards the ignition timing so the engine won't develop rpm. If you ever test it, the engine will run rough and won't develop RPM. It's purpose is to guard against a stuck/frozen throttle.

Adjust 1 to 2mm of gap between the throttle and throttle base. When you push the throttle, you should feel that 1-2 mm slop before the throttle starts to pull on the throttle cable.

http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/O...2016-12-15 at 9.38.29 PM_zpsdr2r3io1.png.html

The above link shows only where the free play is measured. Unfortunately, I didn't have a picture showing the free play. If you were to push on the throttle slightly, you would see the free play.
 
Last edited:
OldIron said:
For throttle free play, the gap between the throttle base and the throttle need to be adjusted so that the throttle is not tight up against the throttle base. If it is, your TORS (Throttle Over Ride System) will kick in. This retards the ignition timing so the engine won't develop rpm. If you ever test it, the engine will run rough and won't develop RPM. It's purpose is to guard against a stuck/frozen throttle.

Adjust 1 to 2mm of gap between the throttle and throttle base. When you push the throttle, you should feel that 1-2 mm slop before the throttle starts to pull on the throttle cable.

http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/O...2016-12-15 at 9.38.29 PM_zpsdr2r3io1.png.html

The above link shows only where the free play is measured. Unfortunately, I didn't have a picture showing the free play. If you were to push on the throttle slightly, you would see the free play.
Click to expand...

Ok cool, thanks for the info! Pretty sure ai have everything adjusted right so ill try it out tommorrow morning, fingers crossed
 
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