Hi, Looking to get more out of my Stock 120 Stud kit. Trail riding and recreational lake drags. What is a good starting point for clutch updates.... Should I just do springs or Helix, weights and springs.
heel clicker 40-10 clutch kit, get a Dalton 48/34 or 48/36 helix. By far the most improvement for the buck you can do to a single piped viper.
Cool, I see Rich Motosports have the heel kicker 40-10 kit for 230.00 the Dalton helix thru Dalton industry, What spring should I use in the secondary???
stock Yamaha red dot sec spring, its already in your viper. when you get the kit I will give ya specs to set it up to. You need a Dalton helix also, the one in mine is the 48/34
Would these components work well in a 136" version with some "tweaks"?
sure will
Hi, I got the Heel Kicker 40-10 and Dalton 48-34... Can you help with specs for set up....
4-5 grams heel weight for engagement around 4000rpm, 3.3 (short bolt) for center, 4.3 in the tip(long bolt), red primary spring. 48/34 Dalton helix with your stock red dot Yamaha sec spring wound to 80 degrees.
you can play with the washers on heel to get it where your personal preference is, I like about 4000 engagement speed, some like lower some higher.
Awesome... This is the first clutch I've done so please excuse my ignorance.... im using both... 3.3 in center & 4.3 in tip with or W/out washer depending on engagement preference. Once I decide washers or not should I lock tite ???
Ops also I've got what looks like allen set screws for the shoulder. Do I not use them??
just follow the instructions in the kit and once you have it dialed in you can take the weights back out and put a drop of removeable thread locker on them. The set screws are if you want to use less weight then the bolt with washers in the heel, you likely wont use those. I would also suggest you go to like office max or something and buy a small little digital gram scale, so you know what weight your putting into each hole and to tune with in the future, nice tool to have!
Thx, ill get a scale today. the directions said weight center hole, nothing in tip. Your recommendation was 4-5 gram 3.3 center 4.5 tip. new to clutching was not clear if I do both or one or the other center or tip. Both add up to more than 5 gm but not clear if one offsets the other. Again thanks for your help just trying to learn.. I've read much of your stuff and you really know clutching.
use the set up I gave you in post 9 but I was referring to the instructions so you can make sure the weight swings all the way thru its travel and doesn't touch the sheave, theres a picture in the instructions.
HDYAMAHA84
Member
so thats a stock viper with just that clutch setup?? that suckers fast
yep, that's my daughters trail sled, single pipe viper. I did in the first video get the easier heat race as there was only 1 srx triple triple in it, the others were Polaris ultras or something like that. In this video is the final race and I got all the bigger hp sleds to race against, mach z 809, zrt800, Polaris pro x, another srx700 and my kids little viper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feFGlX3DOFU
HDYAMAHA84
Member
Wow that's sweet! How much you charge to build a setup?
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Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Ok,,, I got the clutching done. It's engaging @ 5200 not enough snow to see how it runs and what rmp wot is. So I started to clean power valves and the first one broke a bolt. its so small i'm not wanting to drill it. I have a snap-on extrude kit but the bit is almost the size of the bolt. Going to try some Heat Valve Lube... any suggestions ???
Got just enough snow last night but have to get power valve issue fixed...
Got just enough snow last night but have to get power valve issue fixed...
then you need to add more washers to the heel bolt, to get down to 4000rpm, you need 4-5 grams of heel weight. should be the long bolt with 4 or 5 washers on the heel.
as for the broken off powervalve housing bolt, if its broken off, get the others out, is it sticking out any from the cylinder or broken off flush? if sticking out, apply heat from a map gas torch and use vise grips on stub to work back and forth. If flush you have no choice but to dril it out with very small drill bit, and its much easier to do while off the sled so it can be done without bit getting off bolt and ruining the threads in cylinder.
as for the broken off powervalve housing bolt, if its broken off, get the others out, is it sticking out any from the cylinder or broken off flush? if sticking out, apply heat from a map gas torch and use vise grips on stub to work back and forth. If flush you have no choice but to dril it out with very small drill bit, and its much easier to do while off the sled so it can be done without bit getting off bolt and ruining the threads in cylinder.