so the heel is the same as tip ??? that is where I have the long bolt now.
I have the power valve out, there is a little of the stud sticking out. Put a small amount of heat on it as I was concerned of damage from heat. I just got a can of GM Heat Valve Lube. It has a chemical reaction to generate heat to get penetrating oil where others wont. I've had luck with this in the past where a spark plug in an aluminum head wouldn't come out, as I turned it in and out it was obvious the threads were galling. The heat valve lube got it out. Not sure it will work here but worth a try. It's a great item to have in your box of tricks.
I recently acquired this sled and guessing the power valves have never been out, feels like the bottom bolts on the other two valves don't want to come out... ugh
Thanks for all the help!!! This site is Awesome...
I have the power valve out, there is a little of the stud sticking out. Put a small amount of heat on it as I was concerned of damage from heat. I just got a can of GM Heat Valve Lube. It has a chemical reaction to generate heat to get penetrating oil where others wont. I've had luck with this in the past where a spark plug in an aluminum head wouldn't come out, as I turned it in and out it was obvious the threads were galling. The heat valve lube got it out. Not sure it will work here but worth a try. It's a great item to have in your box of tricks.
I recently acquired this sled and guessing the power valves have never been out, feels like the bottom bolts on the other two valves don't want to come out... ugh
Thanks for all the help!!! This site is Awesome...
umm no......., did you look at the instructions???
The heel controls engagement speed, so if your at 5200, you need to put the long bolt in there with 4-5 washers on it. you can change this while its on the sled don't have to remove the weights from clutch.
The center hole will be a larger diameter bolt but shorter then the other one, will be 3.3 grams , that bolt goes in middle hole, the tip should have the long 4.3 bolt in it. You cant put the bolts from the mid and tip into the heel as they wont fit because they are a larger size.
The heel controls engagement speed, so if your at 5200, you need to put the long bolt in there with 4-5 washers on it. you can change this while its on the sled don't have to remove the weights from clutch.
The center hole will be a larger diameter bolt but shorter then the other one, will be 3.3 grams , that bolt goes in middle hole, the tip should have the long 4.3 bolt in it. You cant put the bolts from the mid and tip into the heel as they wont fit because they are a larger size.
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when u say wound to 80 degrees ??? the helix has 4 holes which one should i use 0 3 6 9 thanks in advance
Vincent
New member
On the sheave side you insert the spring end in the #2 hole, and in the helix cover side ( contains the 0,3,6,9 holes) you insert the spring to #6. It's based on the simple formula of (2+6)x10 = 80. By going to 80 your clutches will backshift (downshift gears sorta speak) faster compared to the spring being wound to less tension like 70 or 60.
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thanks so much great to be able to get answers new to clutching
Ok... no luck getting broke bolt from power valve out of cylinder. I'm using a snap-on extractor heating the aluminum to 200 + deg. reading it inside valve port with laser temp reader. Drilled three 1/32 holes on outside of bolt to relive pressure and spray lube. Even tried wax. Now drilled as far as I can go. w/out hitting aluminum as pilot hole is just off center. Going to pull cylinder hope with heat exhaust manifold nuts come off with heat. When I put the cylinder back on should I use stock head gasket. any other recommendations ? The coolant drain plug will it be obvious. Is there any tricks to getting the air out of cooling system.