R/t Performance
New member
Seats been ridden 60 miles today wow much better nearly a rider fiward feel.
R/t Performance
New member
Sorry some these are sidways hard to edit on my phone.
This seat is fantastic!!!
R/t Performance
New member
Another from today
Matt Ridesred
New member
Nice!
snotwister
VIP Gold
late on the reply lol, but I too have the boss seat and it makes a huge difference I agree. also have 8" risers, gear change.. clutch spring .. etc
Having the sled since new in 2004, Ive played with the suspension throughout the years.
My body weight it 150. Add the riding gear, tools, extra oil.. first aid.. backpack and I wouldn't be surprised if Its close to 200 lbs.
That being said, I try everything to get the sled to handle as best it can for what it is.. a 15yo sled. And I think Ive pretty much nailed it. If you put the body into it, you can keep it flat and rip the corners pretty fast depending on the trails of course. It does not dart, and the bump absorption is pretty good, again, for what it is. a Proaction.
The front skis are set to show 118mm of 'exposed thread' from the spring bottom to the end of threads on the shock. 110mm, it will push too much for my liking , 115mm is much better and 118 is perfect on a softer trail. But on really stiff hard pack condition, I can get away with 115, though do have to be leaning on it to keep inside ski planted to control ski lift
Ive got the long track 136 kit, so my exposed strap threads are 28mm. stock is 25. This reduces the approach angle at the front of the skd and quiets the clack on the tips, and clips.
I set the control rod nuts open all the way to the last ring
The FRA is set in the middle
The rear shock preload is 55mm of exposed thread from spring bottom to last thread on shock body (or 80.3mm [which is max per manual] if measured my method per manual - to bolt center)
This rear shock preload allows me to keep FRA in the middle (position b) and sitting loaded ready to ride, on a trail, it keeps control rod gaps equal top and bottom
the front shock preload is slightly stiffer than factory default, sorry I cannot recall the exposed thread mm, but I have it written down.
carbides are 6" under the upgraded tuner ski, with slight tow out.
Don't waste your money on the tuner skis.. Im not a fan of them. But I sold my stock skis and can't go back. May get another set of center keel ski to go back to
KYB shocks and they are rebuilt
hope this helps
Having the sled since new in 2004, Ive played with the suspension throughout the years.
My body weight it 150. Add the riding gear, tools, extra oil.. first aid.. backpack and I wouldn't be surprised if Its close to 200 lbs.
That being said, I try everything to get the sled to handle as best it can for what it is.. a 15yo sled. And I think Ive pretty much nailed it. If you put the body into it, you can keep it flat and rip the corners pretty fast depending on the trails of course. It does not dart, and the bump absorption is pretty good, again, for what it is. a Proaction.
The front skis are set to show 118mm of 'exposed thread' from the spring bottom to the end of threads on the shock. 110mm, it will push too much for my liking , 115mm is much better and 118 is perfect on a softer trail. But on really stiff hard pack condition, I can get away with 115, though do have to be leaning on it to keep inside ski planted to control ski lift
Ive got the long track 136 kit, so my exposed strap threads are 28mm. stock is 25. This reduces the approach angle at the front of the skd and quiets the clack on the tips, and clips.
I set the control rod nuts open all the way to the last ring
The FRA is set in the middle
The rear shock preload is 55mm of exposed thread from spring bottom to last thread on shock body (or 80.3mm [which is max per manual] if measured my method per manual - to bolt center)
This rear shock preload allows me to keep FRA in the middle (position b) and sitting loaded ready to ride, on a trail, it keeps control rod gaps equal top and bottom
the front shock preload is slightly stiffer than factory default, sorry I cannot recall the exposed thread mm, but I have it written down.
carbides are 6" under the upgraded tuner ski, with slight tow out.
Don't waste your money on the tuner skis.. Im not a fan of them. But I sold my stock skis and can't go back. May get another set of center keel ski to go back to
KYB shocks and they are rebuilt
hope this helps
Last edited:
SWEDE
New member
I find the seat being narrower makes it much easier to shift my weight and keep the skis planted. It corners good for me, but i also have simmons skis and they help with stability for sure
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk