Vector88
New member
i have a venture 700 triple I recently picked up. When driving it 0-40 kph the engine purs like a kitten but between 40 to 70 kph it sputters like I have to play with the throttle to clear it up. It sounds like it comes into a deep sputter or bog. Over 70kph is clears up again. My friend who has a 600 triple mountain max told me those nine are like that and it's very common. Do anyone know what I can do to get rid of the way it's acting? Carbs were cleaned very recently and were all adjusted. I'm new to those engine I've had sxviper 700 in the past and those engines wasn't like this. Any info would be great thank you.
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Do you have Reed notch done or reed spacers ?
Vector88
New member
No everything is stock
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What have you checked?
Vector88
New member
Carbs were cleaned a couple weeks ago. Inspected the Reed pedals while carbs were off. Compression is 125 in each cylinder, spark looks good as well.
Check to make sure the choke plungers on the carbs are closing all the way when the choke is lever if off. Maybe its adjusted to tight, or not lubed.
HDYAMAHA84
Member
Is the flywheel rusty?
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Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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Blip the choke during one of its "episodes" to rule out fuel.
Vector88
New member
I'll look at the choke adjustment tonight and check if the choke clears it up. I found the proper term of what she's is doing. It burbles if that makes sense to anyone.
the needles may be too high - check the position of the clip and washers (top of carbs)
burble is usually caused by too much fuel and more commonly encountered at idle or low rpms
burble is usually caused by too much fuel and more commonly encountered at idle or low rpms
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On the flip side of this, also run it without any foam filters after you blip the choke. Either on the slush box or in the hood. That will tell us which way to go.
on a stock redhead engine, and stock I mean no airbox mods or peeled headgaskets, they had a burble and mid low speeds.You can remedy it easily by simply removing the plastic shim under the needle clip , leave metal clip in the stock 3 rd groove down from top, just put it(plastic shim) on top of the metal clip along with other plastic shim that's already on there and it will cure the burble on a STOCK sled. They were just a tad too rich on the needle settings stock.
Vector88
New member
This sounds like the route I need to go. Can I do this without removing the carbs from the sled? My sled is completely stock has nothing done to airbox and engine wasn't ever touched. 9000 km on original engine.
Vincent
New member
Yes you can adjust them without removing the carbs. I can attest, this little adjustment helps alot. When you get good at it, it takes about 10 min to adjust all three carb needles!
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yes, I can do them while on a sled, but..... if you have NEVER adjusted the needles, I would suggest to take them off and do on a bench as if you drop the little screws or the shims down into the abyss of the engine bay...... you will create cuss words that you never knew.....lol
you will need a ballend 2.5mm allen wrench to do this, along with a phillips head screw driver. I belive someone even posted pics on how to do it on here.
you will need a ballend 2.5mm allen wrench to do this, along with a phillips head screw driver. I belive someone even posted pics on how to do it on here.
Vector88
New member
It's my first time doing this. Would like a step by step procedure if you can help me out. I took the cap off the top and i see 2 small Allen bolts when I have the throttle held. Not sure how it comes apart. I'd rather wait to see what I do next before I proceed. Any instructions would be great. Thanks
Here is one of the old tech pages with pics . . .
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/carbs/Carbs.htm
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/carbs/Carbs.htm
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this is the thread I was thinking of, don't mind the settings but it has good pics so you can see what you have to do to adjust the needle. In this case, all you want to do is remove the plastic shim from UNDER the metal clip and place it on top of the other plastic shim, put back together.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php/103079-Raise-Needles-Info
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php/103079-Raise-Needles-Info
Vector88
New member
So I got 1 of 3 done. Think I have the problem. 2 washers were under the needle clip. So I put the 2 washers back but on top of the clip. Hopefully this is my problem!
having both shims under the metal clip is correct for stock. both shims under the clip in 3rd groove down is a true #3 spot setting for needles which is stock. I mistyped when I said it had 1 above and 1 below. I just removed the one shim below and put it up top, leaving the 1 shim under the metal clip, this leans it out slightly, it shouldn't be a problem if you took both out unless you ride in very cold temps, where if so put one back under clip.