2001 SXR 600 Rear suspension trouble (HELP)

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NewfieBullet

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Hey everyone been lurking the forums for a few weeks trying to find out what I want to know but couldn't view attachments and nobody has the same issue I have. So here is the story, picked up a sxr 600 triple for 900 bucks, ad said extended to 136 with a 1.5 inch track. When I got there the machine ran good and wasn't in overall bad shape but the rear suspension had been replaced with a 136 out of a venture (unsure of year). So long story short, the guy put this suspension in with drop brackets but the track is too tight up by the driveshaft. He used the same front mounting hole but drilled a hole for the middle arm and put drop brackets for the rear. I have no idea what the geometry of this rear suspension is supposed to be and how I can remedy it. I have a 121 inch track lined up and might be getting a 04 viper rear skid. Anyone have any insight on putting different suspensions in the rear? If I could I would reposition the rear skid so that I can use whats there for the remainder of this winter. The adjusters for the track are backed completely off but the track is still extremely hard to turn over (barely move it). I know this is just tearing up bearings, my belt and the track itself the way it is. anyone put a 136 in a pro action chassis sled and have some pointers?? Any and all input appreciated! 20170121_110717.jpg20170123_095515.jpg20170124_145635.jpg20170124_145643.jpg
 
Yep that's missing but that isn't the issue, the tension/angle of the track coming off the driveshaft is binding the track. I'm gonna say its the way the suspension is in the sled more than anything but I'm wondering if I can fix it without drilling another 4+ holes in the tunnel when the person I bought it off already extended the rear rad and drilled the tunnel as is.
 
Have you tried putting the back 4 bolts in the original mounting holes to see how that works?
 
Personally I would pull that skid and track and inspect everything. IMO you will like the 136 skid over the 121 if you get it setup right and have good shocks and springs in it. I don't have a 136 ProAction chassis sitting here to give you measurements but several others on here do. Once you have those measurements, then with the skid and track out of the way, you can measure up the current mounting holes relative to the driveshaft and "attitude" of the sled. I wouldn't worry too much about having to make new holes if the current mount locations are not right. If the holes are too close or overlap, just use some aluminum plates to address - inside for sure and possibly also on the outside. I prefer 7075 so it doesn't egg the holes out too much. Some simply use steel to combat this.

Be sure to check your driveshaft over real well including bearings.

Also it would be good to see pictures of the rear of the skid (from several angles) as you may have other problems.
 
Ding, I really like the 136 and wouldn't mind keeping it as the 1.5 is like new. I have had the skid dropped once but took me and 2 other fella 3 hours and a lot of tipping it back and forth on its side to get it back. I can get some more pictures and update later today or tomorrow. These measurements are exactly what i'm talking about. I know the suspension that's in there has had its rails welded and is in rough shape. I think I'm going to haul it all apart over the next few days and see what i'm working with without the skid and track there. (On a side note does anyone know if there is a reverse kit for these or if the venture/vmax/MM700 chaincases can be swapped? Really want reverse on this thing.)
 
Yes there is a reverse kit for these - it consists of the chaincase cover, gears, chain and other internals, shifter and linkage, beeper, rear flap and placards. Obviously you can do without some of it, but you need most of it. It is the same kit as the Venture, and Vmax same gen sleds came with.
 
Need close up pics of drop brackets and new mounting hole for middle. The fronts stay the same for a simple 136 swap and drop brackets. At very least you could just move it back to original holes. It will work just fine and travel fine just wont have the drag car look.
 
If you need measurements for reference , just ask. I have a 2000 Venture. Looks like your track is rubbing on your tunnel protector strips, mite be worth removing them
 
Vincent said:
If you need measurements for reference , just ask. I have a 2000 Venture. Looks like your track is rubbing on your tunnel protector strips, mite be worth removing them
Click to expand...

Good point with guards. That might be your binding. That 1.5 track is to big to run with guards on. And it the tunnel protectors are on I'm sure the front heat exchanger guards are on. Remove both and that will free up that track. Or trim the lugs back where they contact protectors. If track is new it may be snug, give it time to relax. I did a 144" extensions on both my Vipers. One was fine and other was rubber and tight. Looked it over a hundred times and it was right. Track loosened up just fine with some ride time. But I'm thinking your binding is the protectors! I would just remove, no longer need.
 
remove your gaurds upper and front, never use drop brakets unless your going off trail, they do nothing positive for a trail sled. you want your mounts in stock location for a 136 sled. the stock location will take a 1.5 track with 9 tooth drivers. dont forget to reset your carbide pressure for your new ride height in the back. that suspension came with a very light spring, If you have the hardware, a viper upgrade spring works great or a stock front srx or sx ski spring is good too. you will need to grind out the inside to make it fit on stock shock hardware.
 
Thanks for the quick replys everyone! This forums seems really friendly and I will definitely share any info I come across/discover with you guys. I removed the tunnel guards the first day I had it and that took the rubbing out but there is still tension on the track with the suspension geometry. Are you guys saying that the 136 proaction will bolt in the 3 original holes of the 121 tunnel?? I honestly can't see me getting the rear two mounting points that far ahead on the tunnel unless theres a part of the suspension must be disassembled to put it in there. The measurements from the driveshaft to the mounting points from the 136 venture would be the answer here I think. Would you be able to get them for me Vincient? Do you have any more pictures Couple of Bucks? You're setup is very similar to what I would like to go with. Here are a few pictures/ can always get more of more specific things if needed guys. I appreciate all the help, I love Yamahas and really want to get my first triple working good. 20170203_091617_resized.jpg20170203_091623_resized.jpg20170203_091632_resized.jpg20170203_091641_resized.jpg20170203_091759_resized.jpg20170204_123327_resized.jpg
 
Took these measurerments from the forward suspension shaft bolts (W arm) to the back suspension shaft bolts. All measurements are center to center of bolts!
So from the front bolt to middle bolt is 19" long and from the flat horizontal surface of the tunnel to bolt center is 3 1/4" high.

From forward shaft bolt to the rear shaft bolt is 34 1/2 " long
And the shaft bolts are about 3/4" below the flat horizontal surface of the tunnel
 

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Ahh i see you have a real 136" suspension not a 121 extended which eliminates putting the skid back to the stock holes. check your measurements against vincint's and see where your at.
 
Hey everyone, little update here. Was out until 1:30 am last night and got the suspension hauled out for a checkover and also my chaincase disassembled and secondary removed. Suspension seems to be moving fine, found that there is another shock put in place for the front one with a piece welded in... not impressed by any means. Straps were set to about 8 mm. In one of the pictures you can see where the mounting point of the transfer rods was moved forward. Would this be causing my excessive tightness??? Thanks guys. This is one hell of a piece together. Probably gonna look for another 136 next season. Plan on welding the w arm up good and try to reinforce a bit. This thing has me stumped..

the rails seemed to have been welded before and definitely aren't straight. Even with suspension removed the track still seems really stiff. Anyone heard of a polaris 136 track with a different pitch?? can't find any numbers on the track but it is definitely a OEM polaris track. 20170207_010348.jpg20170207_010354.jpg20170207_010413.jpg20170207_010423.jpg
 
Seeings how it appears that Dr Frankenstein cobbled it to fit, your most logical choice would be to find another. Welding those heat treated rails has set you up for a catastrophic failure and will destroy the track in the process.
 
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