2004 Yamaha SXvenom ER engine not runing right help!! Hi mileage Owners


Have you cleaned the carbs? Sounds like you Cant get past the pilot circuit without the choke on. And by cleaning carbs I mean completely tore down. Every jet removed and circuit clean. Much better job second time around! Thank you. LOL! All good.
 
I would be very surprised if you could get that engine to hit 10,000 rpms in stock form. I know I would not want to be anywhere near it if it did. Did I miss a post where he mentioned 10K rpms?

That said - I agree that you seem to have clutch issues, but I think there are more issues at play then the clutches. I would go through it - if it seems overwhelming try to find someone close to you with experience.
 
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Yea the clutches are all but brand new i will have to clean the carbs and draine the fule it acts like a lack of fule issue so I'm hoping that's all it is and should this sled be tacking 10.000 rpms that is crazy!!! and is it ok to run 87 octane fuel in the red head it seemed to be ruining awesome up until it when into bog mode I put the ISO heat to it today is that not good to use it says safe for two strokes draining the gas any way but for future reference thanks for your advice man I appreciate it.... ps I will be pressure testing the heat exchanger s and hoes also I m going say it is coming from the heat exchanger or a hoes near the bumper because that is where the leek is I must be a very small hole because my coolent is only halfe a quart low I have a spool gun I will find it and weld it up



I think thats what he said???
 
You can replace the in-tank filter, clean out your fuel pump, and check your carb inlets carefully. If you don't find any evidence of debris (even very small stuff or goo) then check your pulse line.

I wouldn't assume that the clutches are working right just because they are "all but new". I would check them out anyway.
 
Does anyone have problems with snow getting on the air box pre filter? It is a mostly on the clutch side. It is enough to restrict air flow, up to 1/4 inch. i clean it out every time I stop but this could be a problem . It could have sucked enough water to damage a piston or stick a ring !! And the sled ran awsom the the whole sled trip to my frends house. Then i began playing cat and mouse with his 09 dragon 800 . The first time I road i was tailing a 15 pro s axis 800 but snow conditions where hard packed, and I didn't notice the snow on the filter?
 
Ding said:
I would be very surprised if you could get that engine to hit 10,000 rpms in stock form. I know I would not want to be anywhere near it if it did. Did I miss a post where he mentioned 10K rpms?

That said - I agree that you seem to have clutch issues, but I think there are more issues at play then the clutches. I would go through it - if it seems overwhelming try to find someone close to you with experience.
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Well I couldn't believe it my self man but I v don it before with a stock 98 zrt 800 testing clutch set ups that where incorrect . Did it set of a red flag ? yes did I hold it to the bar until it popped ? No it gave me chills. At one point it hit 10500rpms when I was not paying attention. I m telling you this because I m baffled and I need help. Lol
 
I know the secondary has a black spring and so does my primary clutch , but I believe the primary clutch has a white stripe? The bushings and rollers are new and the shift weights are as well. The helix is new and the buttons . I m wiling to bet it has viper clutching , o and it engages at 4300. I m throwing to much on this page I m just over run with all these problems sorry . I need to remember the old process of elimination. But I m working in CT and it is out of my hands until I get home . ��
 
super1c said:
Have you cleaned the carbs? Sounds like you Cant get past the pilot circuit without the choke on. And by cleaning carbs I mean completely tore down. Every jet removed and circuit clean. Much better job second time around! Thank you. LOL! All good.
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No I have not done that yet and I have a gut felling your right. Except the sled runs decent, then it just hits a wall at 6000rpm then when I hit the choke it pulls the engine down I believe it is a maine jet . The Maine jet sits in in it own space in the bottom of the carb bowl right , and below that space is the water trap .when fuel mixed with water enters the carb , the water sinks to the bottom. This can block the Maine jet because 1 it can freeze and for some reason jets don't like to pass water. I had this problem with my 19 89 Indy 400 as a kid. It often happens because your a broke kid, and you siphon gas out of everything in the your father's garage with old to go riding with your buddy's lol. I eventually solved this problem by hooking a quick drain set up to The bottom of my float bowls that connected both the carburetor water traps together with a drain plug at the end. After that I could pull the drain plug Trailside and drain my carbs . It would run 100% better every time. lol
 
Martin Hall said:
Well I couldn't believe it my self man but I v don it before with a stock 98 zrt 800 testing clutch set ups that where incorrect . Did it set of a red flag ? yes did I hold it to the bar until it popped ? No it gave me chills. At one point it hit 10500rpms when I was not paying attention. I m telling you this because I m baffled and I need help. Lol
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I believe this over rev probably is the result of another bolt missing from the clutch side engine mount. It broke off and i was unable to extract it , beause I would have to pull the engine. So the engine still gets twist under heavy acceleration . maby enough to pull the clutch out of alignment in full shift out. That causing the belt to slip and the engine free to rev to the moon, sounds about right. a open heart sugary is in the verry near future , and new engine mounts idea::idea::idea::idea:
 
Here is your stock settings for your clutch. http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/AAATuning Chart/Specs.htm Those springs will be black with some colors painted in a small stripe. They should still be there, sleds not that old. Also that broken motor mount is not good. If you cant get bolt out of bulk head i have drilled them out before and just ran a longer bolt with a nylon locking nut and green lock tight. Still holding fine to this day. I did not pull engine just removed mount then drilled out bolt left in bulk head. http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmob...Carb Cleaning/Carb cleaning 101 with pics.htm This will help you with cleaning those carbs. It could be water in carb which is not good so a clean is in order. And your not asking to many questions. Just fix one and move on to next.
 
Well the whole enging is getting a rebuild. The comp test is , pto Side 120psi , center 120psi, mag side will not hold 120 psi.

The mag side has bad head gasket, because one of the head studs on the mag side is leaking oil gunk!! So complete rebuild. Should I go with factory or wisco pistons and gaskets???? I m doing crank seals as well. I believe the bog at 6000 is a bad head gasket, or crank seal on the mag side
 
OEM pistons, ring and circlips. Should be able to reuse gaskets. Wiseco makes a great forged piston, they just aren't very forgiving if you don't have very good warmup procedures and run in a controlled environment (like racing). Just get a parts list and then check some of the sponsors on here as some have good discounts. There are other online options as well. Of course it never hurts to support your local dealer if you have a favorite and don't mind paying a little more.
 
Hey Ding I looked it up and I can get a complete wisco top end rebuild kit for 326$. Your saying the Yamaha pistons are better? I believe that but I m verry good about warming my sled up , and should I replace my reeds ? I was thinking of going with boysen rage cages , is there any benefit to that for the red head 600? I m also doing a water pump impeller and seals + crank seals. I would love To go Yamaha parts all the way if they can make 10,500 miles on factory parts they must be good!! . And my local Yamaha dealer when out of business this fall. So I m going to order online parts.
 
Martin Hall said:
Hey Ding I looked it up and I can get a complete wisco top end rebuild kit for 326$. Your saying the Yamaha pistons are better? I believe that but I m verry good about warming my sled up , and should I replace my reeds ? I was thinking of going with boysen rage cages , is there any benefit to that for the red head 600? I m also doing a water pump impeller and seals + crank seals. I would love To go Yamaha parts all the way if they can make 10,500 miles on factory parts they must be good!! . And my local Yamaha dealer when out of business this fall. So I m going to order online parts.
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OEM pistons for the redhead are actually pretty cheap, most places sell them for less than $50, for that price I'd stick with OEM. I wouldn't waste money on the rage cage, just notch your stock reed stoppers for better throttle response.
 
I know ding mentioned venders on this site, but I can't find any . Do you know of a good one ? I need 3 pistons ,3 sets of piston rings , 3 wrist pins , and 3 wrist pin bearings and a complete gasket kit from the crank seals up . I whant to make shure this engine is tight and right.
 
Port Yamaha is a main sponsor I believe. They are actually my local dealer too.
 
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