01 handling issue

[Hammer Down]

So i put 500 miles on the 01 at Grand Marais. Sled ran awesome. Only issue is gas gauge does not read off full until about 40 miles. Anyway, the only thing that bugged me is the sled seemed to drop to the left on the whoops. I'm running an m10 and a widened/extended front suspension.

 

[SWEDE]

Check your ski alignment and make sure there's no excessive play in your front end. It'll do all kinds of weird things if things are loose. I like to be toed out around 1/4" or so

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[Hammer Down]

1/8" of play up/down on spindle. Is there a spacer or washer missing? That looks like too much slop to me.

 

[srx700c]

So i put 500 miles on the 01 at Grand Marais. Sled ran awesome. Only issue is gas gauge does not read off full until about 40 miles...

Best way to get the gas gauge off of full quickly is to get an 835 kit, cylinder & case porting, big-a$$ carbs, and big bore pipes. That gauge needle will for sure drop off of full well before 40 miles! And you'll love every second of it, just don't pass a gas station!

... Anyway, the only thing that bugged me is the sled seemed to drop to the left on the whoops. I'm running an m10 and a widened/extended front suspension.

I'm not exactly sure what you're saying by drop to the left, is it just an uneven up and down thing, or is it trying to skate out to the left? Is it in the rear or front?
If it's a situation where you hit whoop and the front end drops more on the left side than the right side, I'd suspect the shock and/or spring is sacked on that side to some extent compared to the right. If the spring rate and internal shock condition/calibration is not the same on both sides all thru the suspension travel, I would expect one side to act differently than the other, either by a little or a lot depending on condition.

 

[Hammer Down]

The left handlebar drops down first. A bad spring makes sense. I'll just drive faster and skip over em from now on. Hammer @&!"?$&@ Down

 

[srx700c]

1/8" of play up/down on spindle. Is there a spacer or washer missing? That looks like too much slop to me.

The black "spacer" you see in the pic is the shoulder of the plastic bushing that is inserted into the spindle tube, and the steering arm rests on top of the bushing, no gap just grease. I'd check the bottom of the spindle too since it has a bushing as well, it should look like the top except with the addition of a thin steel spacer between the plastic bushing and the steel spindle tube. It may be that the shoulder of the bottom bushing has worn away or broken apart, thus allowing the gap you see at the top. Might be a good idea to take the weight off the ski, and see if there's lateral play between the spindle and the spindle tube, there should be very little to none if the bushings are good.

Hopefully this is as simple as the steering arm has slid up the splines. If all looks good, loosen that steering arm bolt in the pic a little and Hammer Down the steering arm, easy on it though, shouldn't take much. Tighten the bolt up good and snug to prevent the arm slipping up, or off.

 

[Hammer Down]

I was hoping there was a spacer missing on top because if I pick up the sled by front bumper the tie rod bolt rubs the top of the trailing arm. I'll probably rebuild this front end with new trailing arms. I'm thinking it's just worn out.

 

[super1c]

I was hoping there was a spacer missing on top because if I pick up the sled by front bumper the tie rod bolt rubs the top of the trailing arm. I'll probably rebuild this front end with new trailing arms. I'm thinking it's just worn out.

Most of these Sleds were sloppy right from the factory new. As long as your bushings are good your fine. That slop was normal.

 

[Hammer Down]

Ok. Thanks. I believe the tie rod end is installed upside down? The front end is aftermarket long travel. Maybe snotek, the radius rods and tie rods are aluminum. Not sure if that makes a difference

 

[srx700c]

Stock the tie rod end is on top of the steering arm, and the bolt sticks thru the nut enough for a cotter pin to be installed thru a hole in the end of the bolt. You don't have much bolt sticking thru the nylock, I'd keep a close eye on it, better yet get a longer bolt and drill it for cotter pin. Maybe a stock bolt/nut would work?

With only the head of the tie rod bolt underneath the steering arm, it clears the trailing arm enough that you can drop the steering arm on the spindle. That much space is definitely not normal, and can allow the bushings to slide up and down in the spindle tube as the ski is loaded and unloaded, might cause some wear over time with the sharper edge of the steel tube rubbing on the plastic bushing, although grease keeps is slippery. There is normally a space between the top of the steering arm and the bottom of the black plastic cap on top of the spindle, yours looks tight.

 

[Whammy]

I consider those first fifty miles toward my overall mileage,,, gives you a good start ,,, then will read the rest of way down,,,,,.... Id advise all too know how far there sled can go on a full tank of gas.......... Peace of mind ,,,, with clutching and riding style I can get almost 15 miles to a gal......................srx 700...

 

[YamiSwami]

best way to check is to pull a microfilm and look at the parts. go to babbats and pull the film.

 

[Whammy]

Best way is to fill your tank & use your mileage from sled odometer ,,,, fill up again and divide gallons used in too miles run......=.... mpg...

 

[Hammer Down]

Finally got the sled in the garage for maintenance. Both sway bar links were loose. That could of been some of the problem.