WinstonL
New member
Just picked up a 2001 SRX 700 with 4300 miles for $1850. This is the first snowmobile I've owned since I sold my 2003 Firecat F7 in 2008, so it definitely feels good to get back on the saddle, so to speak! It is in great condition cosmetically and from what I can tell there are no obvious problems with the engine or drivetrain. I have only been able to ride it around the yard due to lack of snow 
Things I have done:
1. Compression test - Compression was 130-130-128. Are these acceptable numbers for an engine with 4300 miles or should I consider a top-end rebuild? I usually go by the adage of "If it's don't broke, don't fix it."
2. Greased all accessible areas.
3. Replaced the drive belt with Yamaha OEM belt
4. Disassembled and cleaned the secondary clutch. I noticed quite a bit of wear on the buttons (or ramps?) and I'm thinking all parts inside the clutch are still original, they look quite worn out. I have already planned a full primary and secondary clutch rebuild/upgrade over the summer.
Question: I noticed cracks forming on the outer edge of the inside face of one of the secondary sheaves. Are these cracks normal? (I'm assuming no.) Is there are place where these two sheaves can be purchased brand new, or would I be better off purchasing a used secondary clutch on ebay that is in good condition and then upgrading the parts?
Things I plan on doing
1. Cleaning and adjusting the powervalves.
2. Cleaning and syncing the carburetors.
Any other areas of the snowmobile I should be especially cognizant of? Thank you!
Things I have done:
1. Compression test - Compression was 130-130-128. Are these acceptable numbers for an engine with 4300 miles or should I consider a top-end rebuild? I usually go by the adage of "If it's don't broke, don't fix it."
2. Greased all accessible areas.
3. Replaced the drive belt with Yamaha OEM belt
4. Disassembled and cleaned the secondary clutch. I noticed quite a bit of wear on the buttons (or ramps?) and I'm thinking all parts inside the clutch are still original, they look quite worn out. I have already planned a full primary and secondary clutch rebuild/upgrade over the summer.
Question: I noticed cracks forming on the outer edge of the inside face of one of the secondary sheaves. Are these cracks normal? (I'm assuming no.) Is there are place where these two sheaves can be purchased brand new, or would I be better off purchasing a used secondary clutch on ebay that is in good condition and then upgrading the parts?
Things I plan on doing
1. Cleaning and adjusting the powervalves.
2. Cleaning and syncing the carburetors.
Any other areas of the snowmobile I should be especially cognizant of? Thank you!
Look for
Powervalves pulled through
Cracked W-arm.
While you have the rear suspension out of the sled, do the shocks.
Powervalves pulled through
Cracked W-arm.
While you have the rear suspension out of the sled, do the shocks.
Srx007
Member
Compression Is great, with 4300 miles the jackshaft and drive shaft bearings should be fine but something to keep in mind for a later date mine went around 6500 miles. Ski carbides/runners, stay with single, don't go dual, tors switch, wire harness rub throughs which are worst under the engine dont have to pull the engine remove the recoil and bracket then pull the harness from under the engine, brake pads, chain slack in the chain case easy to do lift track spin secondary and see if track spins as soon as you turn secondary, check hyfax and wheels when you have the suspension out, track tension and alignment, limiter straps, by some new plugs, when going over carbs remember to remove the needle valve and seat out to check the inlet screens, maybe replace the fuel filter since no-one knows the last time it has been changed, the pilot air screw on the bottom carbs which is only accessible when the carbs are off (unless you modify them by following the procedure in the tech section of this forum) should be turned out 1.5-1.75 turns out to prevent an ''idle hang'', dont worry about the carb heaters ON or OFF there isnt any performance issues I have never turned mine on in 4 years have ridden in 10 celcius (about 50 F) to -25 celcius (about -13 F) without a single performance or reliability issue, good gas like 93-94 octane I run 94 in my area of Canada(southern Ontario) from a good fuel source some guys add octane booster I have added fuel stabilizer without an issue.....To name a few LoL
Kramer660r
New member
What is an "idle hang"?
Corey9965
New member
When you blip the throttle from idle and it hangs before it drops back down to idle.
Kramer660r
New member
Ok, thanks.