What to do?

SRXChris

SRXChris

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
198
Location
Marmora, Ontario Canada
Found my suspension has been cracked and rewelded and looks to be cracked again. I believe it's the W arm if that is the name for it. It connects to front of sled and the limiter straps go though it. SHould I try to get this piece repaired again, as it failed once now twice or look for used piece or can I buy new?

Is there aftermarket ones that are better constructed? Any advice appreciated as it's all new to me.
 
cracked w arms are common. repair and gusset the old one. If you do buy new id still add some gussets to prevent future cracking. Royal distributing has aftermarket arms for $225 with free shipping.
 
Thanks. I'll probably end up buying one as far as I can tell that part is discontinued from Yamaha. The one currently on there is just a hack job from previous owner and has failed again. I can post some pics of the cracks and the weld splatter job they applied.

Does the whole skid need to come out to change that pivot arm?
 

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The W arms are cheap, tons of good used ones around. You can use a W arm from any proaction skid 97-06. You don't need to remove the skid to change it. I would find a good used one and reinforce it.
 
shaggyzr2 said:
The W arms are cheap, tons of good used ones around. You can use a W arm from any proaction skid 97-06. You don't need to remove the skid to change it. I would find a good used one and reinforce it.
Click to expand...

So no removal of skid? Are they a pain to get out or would hanging sled from hoist help? Thanks.
 
SRXChris said:
Thanks for the help, looking for a used arm now. If not will buy the new aftermarket one and change out. I'm glad I don't have to pull that skid.
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I would suggest pulling the skid and go through it. Read "tighten yours" by BeTheViper and you'll likely find more issues than just the W arm once you tear into it. Good time to have the shocks rebuilt or upgrade to another skid or long travel it.
 
shaggyzr2 said:
it doesnt need to come out to remove the W arm.
Click to expand...

possible or not. its a pain in the *** to unbolt shock, limit srtaps, then man handle the arm out while still stuck up in the tunnel. then having to line up the front mounting bolts with the other 4 still mounted?

to get to the point of removing the arm the track is already loose and 2 of the mounting bolts already out. It will be faster and easier with it out and then skid can be installed proper way starting with the front bolts.
 
Ok thanks for the suggestions and replies. Likely just pull skid out and check other things over as well as I'm missing a white collar spacer on the rear suspension as well.
 
Having trouble fining a used one. Looking Babbits online parts it lists the 2001 8DN-47331-00-00 as unavailable.

Look at schematic for 1998 it has 2 part numbers listed for the pivot arm 11

Arm, Pivot 1 UR MSRX700PB 8CV-47331-01-00
Arm, Pivot 1 UR SRX700B/SB 8DN-47331-00-00

One is the same part number listed as 2001 and is available??? What is the difference between those 2 models listed?

I asked before but will a 98 bolt on a 2001?
 
just looked and it seems they updated the part numbers on these 3 or more times. As far as i know they should be the same.
 
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I would pull the skid as well. No telling when the last time the bushings were done and you might find a few that need to be replaced while your there. Besides during the summer would be better then just before the season and you cant find the parts or snow is falling. I did my wife's sled and it rolls much better after replacing the bushings and a few wheels that needed bearings. Not a bad idea as stated before to have your shocks done.
 
Pull it out and through it away. All the plastic bushings are tore up ( $96.00 for those), springs are bad, terrible comfort to ride on when all is working.......... Get yourself a SC10-III ski-doo suspension for have the price. Do have hole SRX skid if you want with never broken W-arm.........................
 
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