What is better on the front suspension?

sxviper-s

sxviper-s

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Apr 4, 2016
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Buffalo, NY
What is better? Stiffer spring settings with softer shock settings? Or softer spring settings with stiffer shock settings?
Sx viper s trail riding conditions.
 
Not a expert by any means. But your springs determine your ride height. Never changed rates from stock springs but always left preload soft to keep ride height low. Now with the adjustable shocks (ohlins in my case) I still kept spring preload soft (ride height low) and shocks soft but not to the point that they would wash out in the studders. I was after good trail ride. With shocks it's always a trade off. You can't compensate for a stiff spring with soft shock settings etc. it's a game of give and take to dial in your style of riding.
 
super1c said:
Not a expert by any means. But your springs determine your ride height. Never changed rates from stock springs but always left preload soft to keep ride height low. Now with the adjustable shocks (ohlins in my case) I still kept spring preload soft (ride height low) and shocks soft but not to the point that they would wash out in the studders. I was after good trail ride. With shocks it's always a trade off. You can't compensate for a stiff spring with soft shock settings etc. it's a game of give and take to dial in your style of riding.
Click to expand...

I agree :)
 
Hi thank you for the response.
The book indicated a adjustment between 10 7/8 and 11.5" on front springs I believe. I set them at 11" but thinking I may put them at 11.25". It just seams to stiff currently.
I am looking for good trail riding as well.
After installing a track USA 136 extension and CB drop brackets in it ,I had to add more spring pressure to get the correct gap on the transfer rods.
I was thinking raising the rear was going to put more weight on the front. Not sure how much difference it actually made.
Anyone else notice they had to increase spring pressure after installing an extension??
 
stiffer spring rate will prevent body roll and have better anti bottom characteristics. softer will ride better in slow bumps and dips aswell as smaller bumps in general. Stock viper springs are a progressive rate spring and will give characteristics of both.


EDIT: your ohlins are probably fixed rate.
 
What are you trying to achieve? Do you ride agressively or moderate? You can start by clicking those ohlins?
 
I went 144" with drop brackets. Never had to touch the front to get proper gap on transfer rods. With the extension and drop brackets your going to want to run closer to a 25% top 75% bottom with weight on skid now. Left my front soft and it was money. With your mods you can throw the preload specs out the window now. Just run what works within reason.
 
super1c said:
I went 144" with drop brackets. Never had to touch the front to get proper gap on transfer rods. With the extension and drop brackets your going to want to run closer to a 25% top 75% bottom with weight on skid now. Left my front soft and it was money. With your mods you can throw the preload specs out the window now. Just run what works within reason.
Click to expand...

The adjustment I made for transfer rods was in the rear springs. I had to stiffen them up a bit.

On the front I think I will back the spring pressure down. Maybe 11.25 or so. Sled is just about complete. IMG_0129.jpg
 
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its funny reading this thread.. as new viper owner (2 red vipers) and being a big guy (360 geared) Im learning alot about suspension on these sleds.. It started off with me inquiring about doing a skid swap removing the pro action and replacing with a doo skid sc3.. Most of the answers that I received advised me to just get the shocks revalved and add heavier springs. Then I stumbled upon an ebay product (drop brackets) that are supposed to add 3 inches of travel by lowering the rear of the skid. After receiving feedback on those, it was determined that it was a gimmic and here is why from what I understand..

1. These sleds are designed to sit low in the back for weight distribution in relation to the front suspension design
2. Swapping the skid is really only beneficial if you have the Ohlins in the front

My question I guess at this point would be, what is driving the hate factor on the proaction suspension? is it the amount of travel? is it poor shock valving and spring tension from the factory? is it all of it?

Why do I ask this? because It will cost me around $250 to get the shocks revalved and new springs. For alittle bit more, it seems like I could do a swap on the skid with a doo sc2 or 3 for about the same amount but then still have to revalve and spring the shocks, plus fight with the front suspension to get the balance.

If someone would be willing to dive into explaining what the hype is on the hate against the proaction skid and what the true benefits are on skid swap vs. just revlaving the shocks, springs on proaction.?
 
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