01 SRX build

[XArmy]

cheap primary setup: 8DN 20(probably what you have), 4.5g mid, 4.5 tip with a w-w-w or g-w-g spring.
Secondary: green @ 60 or 70 with 53/43 for all around trail and decent on the big end.
If you want more top something more shallow like a 50/36 works good, might need to remove tip weight though.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like a good way to go. For now all I'm looking for is a good all around setup with a snappy start over top end. Not planning on racing it. The M10 and longer front suspension kills that.

 

[XArmy]

I wired in a shield plug. Thanks to a tip from another member here, I used the blank pigtail above the CDI box.

These are the plugs I stole the pins out of. I use these for wiring in misc things on different builds.

 

[fourbarrel]

Just an FYI,that plug you wired your shield power into is also the diagnostic plug for doing powervalve service/adjustment.You just make up a 2 wire cord,pos and neg,with a toggle switch inline and an alligator clamp on each wire end so you can clamp to a battery to power the servo.

 

[XArmy]

Just an FYI,that plug you wired your shield power into is also the diagnostic plug for doing powervalve service/adjustment.You just make up a 2 wire cord,pos and neg,with a toggle switch inline and an alligator clamp on each wire end so you can clamp to a battery to power the servo.

Good to know.

 

[XArmy]

Well, it's been a long time coming. She is "done". (For the moment. Are we ever really done tinkering, testing, or modifying?) First I'd like to thank you TY peeps for your feedback and insight. A special thank you to a couple local TY users that have helped me out with advice and parts. You know who you are, I'll spare you the fame. So a quick summary of the build. (pics soon)

-Every motor & carb gaskets, seals & O-rings replaced
-New piston rings, bearings
-Replaced one cylinder, piston & PV
-Pulled through PV's repaired
-Replaced misc crusty carb parts
-New fuel and oil lines
-New plugs
-Replaced radius and tie rods with long travel components
-Viper front shocks
-Replaced worn M10 components
-All shocks rebuilt
-New axle/ shaft bearings
-New belt
-New hyfaxs
-Some new idler wheels/ bearings
-New 1.25" Talon 32 track
-New powder pro skis w/ 6" carbides
-2" bar riser
-Heated shield port
-Blue LED gauge bulbs
-Lots of rusty, bent, or stripped hardware replaced
-Media blasted and painted/ powder coated suspension components and complete exhaust system
-etc, etc, etc...

 

[XArmy]

Hope you like. The yellow is Hi-vis. (neon yellow powder coat). The pics don't do it's brightness justice.

 

[AUGDOG]

Been following your build, Sled looks Fantastic!! and your build summary is impressive. looks like you got a little seat time on it and im guessing your Pleased?!

 

[XArmy]

Very little seat time, but yes. It was very nice. Will be playing tomorrow.

 

[XArmy]

Still have hand guards coming in the mail and some decals for the trailing arms.

Blue LED gauge bulbs.

 

[A couple of bucks]

Kiiiiiick @ss!!!!

 

[XArmy]

Made a quick shield port mount. Etched a grove in the plug and used a snap-ring to hold it in.

 

[A couple of bucks]

In you photo album your holding a beat-up piece of something in your hand. What the hoot was it?

 

[XArmy]

It was a power valve. The reason this whole build started. Found it in the middle exhaust pipe right after I bought the sled.

 

[XArmy]

Added the hand guards and trailing arm decals. They are reflective white to match the SRX hood decal. It's the little touches that complete a build.

 

[BETHEVIPER]

Your gona want to watch your tie rods. they are going to get bent with that shock setup your running. They will hit the frame everytime you unload the sled over a bump in a corner. That shock should be bolted above that upper bolt on the shock mount.

 

[BETHEVIPER]

other warnings I see in this build are the shock brackets. the way they are bolted steel clevis to steel bracket may lead to the clevises braking off the the shaft.If you want to run shocks in this configuration, your bracket needs a rubber pivoting isolator to allow the sock end to flex as the suspension pivots through it's travel. this suspension changes the angles of the shock ends alot, unlike the rx/apex/vector style front end that are on the same pivot angles throughout. if you swapped out for a set of shocks that have rubbers in both ends like fox floats or ohlins, fox shocks off many polaris will work.

The other issue I see is that you put a grease fitting in the drive bearing cover. I did this long ago and learned the hard way what a shielded bearing is. unless you change this to a shielded bearing the pressure from the grease gun will push the inner seal of the bearing out and the grease will fly out of it not long after. It does piss me off yamaha never just used the correct bearing and a grease fitting like every other sled manufacturer has.

 

[XArmy]

Thanks for the feedback! I'll take all I can get.

I know about the needed rubber bushing. The current set-up is more a temporary option to get me going for now. The military has me gone to Germany for a month mid jan-feb then deployed not long after. So I won't exactly be getting a lot of ride time until winter 2019/2020.

As far as the tie rods, I had about an inch taken out of stroke of the shocks. Still slightly more travel than a stock SRX shock and fully unloaded the rods are just shy of the frame.

Good to know on the bearing. Ill keep an eye on it. Also won't over do it on the grease. It doesn't take much in the first place.

 

[zr7cat]

Nice build, just not sold on the neon!! Plus I like the look of the srx's when there low to the ground.

 

[zr7cat]

My 98

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dturn]

Wow its come a long way! Enjoy and good luck.