Labrador-Ronin
Member
Hello all I think I have issues with my the power valves, it Boggs when I'm slowing down it goes at 2500 rpm and Boggs when I give throttle and it has to be stopped and let the rooms drop down to idle, and then I can go again, I'm guessing the valves were sticking.
I pulled two, and they had some build up, bit of pitting, they are a bit sticky, would brake cleaner be suitable to clean with and anyone have ideas on how to get a stripped bolt out lol, I'm at a loss at it, and anyone got 2 of them they would sell or give lol
I pulled two, and they had some build up, bit of pitting, they are a bit sticky, would brake cleaner be suitable to clean with and anyone have ideas on how to get a stripped bolt out lol, I'm at a loss at it, and anyone got 2 of them they would sell or give lol
So you are certain that the PVS is not working? with the valve closed I dont think it would bog that low on RPM.
Labrador-Ronin
Member
To be honest I'm not sure I've got a couple post about the tors system I'm going to check that but I got a head bolt that stuck so I need to get that at the helping me work on it stripped it but I'm going to need to clean the valves there sticky there gunky and I don't think I've ever been clean them been Queen by me what do you think it could be I change the stator I change the flywheel new plugs fresh gas new oil I clean the carbs I checked all the electrical components it runs perfect except for it starts to bog down won't let me use the gas after a while when slowing down I think I should check the tors.
Any thoughts on what else? And and advise on the stripped Allen head bolt? I've tried all I could think of
Any thoughts on what else? And and advise on the stripped Allen head bolt? I've tried all I could think of
Check TORS and try some heat on the bolt and u can always weld a nut to the broken part.. I have done that and slowly worked it out.
Labrador-Ronin
Member
Ok thanks, the thing is round inside sadly, there's a leak on the valve right at the outer 2 bolt nose of the clutch side one, would you suggest I replace the o rings, first time doing anything but building the motor haha
post some pictures.. that would help a ton.
Labrador-Ronin
Member
I cleaned it off but I'll do my best to get some on my Imgur page , I'm going back out to try my best at getting the bolt out lol
Labrador-Ronin
Member
I got it out I had to literally destroy the bolt and yeah I think I'm going to need a rebuild kit for the exhaust valves crap what's the best way to clean them I'm using a brush above zero Celsius up to buy the weekend and I definitely got to get out on her
drew24
New member
It sounds like you have a tors issue. When I have my kid with me on mine she will get her hand in position to not let the throttle lever go back and it will activate the tors and I have to let it idle for a few seconds before it will rev up again. The valves only affect the higher rpms.
Yeah, when my TORS acted up the biggest tell was having to stop completely and wait for the RPM's to come down. A simple continuity test will work. You could try this https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/TORS_Cleaning/How_to_Clean_TORS.htm Though it didnt work for me.
Labrador-Ronin
Member
I'm going to try cleaning the tors next, I am waiting on parts, gaskets and screws, but I have to adjust the valves don't I? Only issue I don't have electric start, how do I do that?
drew24
New member
Take the cover off the servo motor and idle the sled down to 900 rpms. You can do it with either the idle screw or use the choke. https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobile...ng Power Valves/Setting Your Power Valves.htm
Labrador-Ronin
Member
drew24
New member
Labrador-Ronin
Member
Labrador-Ronin
Member
I pulled the tors off the carb rack the spring from inside disappeared it wasn't together right I'm guessing it's a bad switch down there or at least I'm hoping anyone know where to get a switch from the carb rack cuz no spring on inside no more
Labrador-Ronin
Member
Here's the carb rack terminals inside
drew24
New member
I think I would get the tors switch replaced or cleaned good. You will have to get a spring also or find the other one. There is a good chance it is in the bottom of the engine compartment. I would do that and put it back together and see if it is still acting up. Double check that the kill switch is plugged in because if it isn't the tors will activate. The air box has no effect on the tors. When the tors activates it will be like a rev limiter and only lets it rev to a little over 3000 rpms. You can bypass the switch at the carb by plugging the 2 wires in the harness into each other. If you do that and it is that switch I would recommend getting it working again because the tors is a good safety feature to have.
Labrador-Ronin
Member
Okay I'm going to clean it up there tomorrow look for the spring it bounced out and hit the concrete for I know that so could be pretty much anywhere in my shed in the in the room I'm just going to move the Viper Overlook underneath my toolbox everywhere that I can get to I think I'm going to have to replace the switch anyway I'm going to put it back in and try it but what's the idling RPMs supposed to be at I still can't find that anywhere I check the owner's manual and nothing
drew24
New member
Lol. I hate it when a spring pops off and goes flying. At least you know it hit the concrete and isn't under the motor in the sled. You can probably clean that switch no problem. In your picture if you look at the little dark spots, that's what needs cleaned. Clean those contact areas up and it should be good to go. I run my viper and srx at 1500 rpm idle when good and warmed up. They usually run lower than that when cold but are fine after warmed up. The "normal" rpm is about 1800 but if it is at 1500 it has less of an idle hang when coming to a stop.