Q&A 97 Vmax sx700 9 tooth to a 8 tooth?

VMAXSX700

VMAXSX700

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Hi I'm rebuilding my susption and have a new track a cross country talon 38 (136" 15" 1.5" pitch 2.52) to go with as well and I was wondering if switching to a smaller drive tooth what are the pros and cons and witch one should I switch out for? And when I buy a new limiter strap should I go for a OEM or aftermarket if there is one? Thanks!
1997 Yamaha Vmax SX 700 triple red head
 
you will need 8 tooth drivers to let the paddles clear the front heat exchanger. speedo will read 10kph faster than your actual speed. i reccomend extroverts as they help prevent driver slippage and let you run the track looser.

as to the limiter strap, never had one fail on a pro action so i would try the aftermarket one myself.
 
Sorry to counterdic Maim on this, but

A 1.5" paddle should clear your front heat exchanger with 9 tooth drivers with out issue as long as you don't have protectors over your heat exchanger. I run a 1.35" x136 Cobra on my 2000 700 triple Venture and I have 3/4 inch clearance. I've racked up 7000 kms on this set up. Many people on this site have run 1.5" paddle tracks on Vmaxs, and Vipers without issues.
 
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Thank you (Maim) I know it will clear with a 9 tooth and for the 8 tooth. What will I gain any torque? Or top speed or loose some? and to the question of what 8 tooth can (will) Fit on it from what sled as well! P.S. what would be the difference from a ratcheting and a fix driver? I'll be trying out the pro action limit or strap for sure thank you!

Vincent i'm pretty sure I don't have heat exchanger protectors on I'll have to take a look to make sure and I never gone with studs before as I never seen the need for what trails I ride.
 
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8 tooth sprocket will gear you down 12.5%. So you will gain torque and loose top speed. You may also need to reclutch because the engine won't "sense" as much load witch can cause your max rpms to go up a bit.
 
meh its all good. been awhile since i put the 1-1/4 track in my sx chassis and i remeber it being tight to go in but not why. never ran studs so i could have pulled the protectors but i just left them in.

was it 136" when you started or are you converting to? if going to 136", it will save you some coin on chain and gears as it drops the ratio pretty close for most applications.

i just use the ones from royal distributing and if you are going 9 tooth, they need to be turned down 1/4" or so as they will contact the rail tips.
 
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Thanks Vincent for the sheet and pros and cons.
Maim it's a 9 tooth to begin with and yes im replacing the worn down stock track with a new one. And yes started as a 136 and still is.
 
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Maim said:
meh its all good. been awhile since i put the 1-1/4 track in my sx chassis and i remeber it being tight to go in but not why. never ran studs so i could have pulled the protectors but i just left them in.

was it 136" when you started or are you converting to? if going to 136", it will save you some coin on chain and gears as it drops the ratio pretty close for most applications.


i just use the ones from royal distributing and if you are going 9 tooth, they need to be turned down 1/4" or so as they will contact the rail tips.
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May I ask how the track length affects the gearing? I assumed that if only difference is track length there would be no change to over all drive? I thought Maybe in clutching needs, but I was un aware of anything else.
 
sxviper-s said:
May I ask how the track length affects the gearing? I assumed that if only difference is track length there would be no change to over all drive? I thought Maybe in clutching needs, but I was un aware of anything else.
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I think he's just referring to the fact that going to a longer track will increase the rotating weight and probably the traction which will somewhat counteract the smaller drivers.

BTW I believe I have both 8 tooth and 9 tooth extros here on the shaft for a good deal if OP is looking for some.
 
Honestly you probably don't need 8 tooth drivers. I did a bunch of simple mods to my 700 redhead Venture and it surprised the heck out of my buddy who rides an Ski-doo 800 E-teck Renegade and another who drives an Artic Cat 800 Crossfire. The response of my sled is awsome, and I run stock gearing, 9 tooth drivers with an aggressive 136" Cobra track.

Simple mods and basic maintenance that add up to alot,

- Apex or Rx-1 Helix , stock secondary green dot spring set to 80 rap on hardpack and 70 for soft fluff, or slushy stuff.
-One layer of headgasket removed for slightly higher compression ratio
-Reed stopper notches on stainless stoppers, ( or reed spacers)
-Home made transfer rods ( or baught ones) way better traction
- Rebuild and calibrated my clutchs to run proper WOT Rpms ( 8500 rpms)
- Properly, cleaned, and tuned carbs
-I removed my starter ( it failed), battery and ring gear
Removing the heavy ring gear reduces rotating mass and helps the motor spool up faster for better response
 
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Here's some additional info pulled right from the TotallyYamaha.com tech pages for ya,

97-99 SX700 Trail

51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 or 2 layers removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains
 
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vmaxsx700, you should be fine then as all the gearing is already done.

depends on motor stregnth/clutching sxviper-s. my brother got away with it on his 2002 sx viper as he had clutched for low end power/corner to corner snap. it got even better on belt life once i put the reverse kit on it and added 1 tooth on the bottom gear. on my old 01 sx500r that was clutched for corner to corner and geared to the old ratio for fuel economy/speed, it would over heat the belt and destroy it in less than 200km once extended to 136" by another brother that bought it. it would get longer on an 8dn belt but would eventually do it again. we had to gear it back to the 2001 specs to get the belt to live.
 
With all due respect, I don't understand your logic behind wrapping the sec spring looser on soft fluff or slushy stuff, that's when you need more wrap in order to not let it sink into the secondary too fast.
 
norwegian said:
With all due respect, I don't understand your logic behind wrapping the sec spring looser on soft fluff or slushy stuff, that's when you need more wrap in order to not let it sink into the secondary too fast.
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-Less secondary spring tension = more up shift

In loose fluffy stuff I have less traction so I allow my clutches shift up a bit fast with a less secondary spring tension witch reduces torque but permits more track speed and I get more thrust.

-More secondary spring tension = less up shift.

On hardpack I have excellent traction and I add secondary spring tension to slow down the up shift and get more torque to the track, and I get more responsive, harder hitting acceleration

I came upon this information from MrViper700 as a quick and easy way to tune my clutches to compensate from day to day changes in snow conditions and it works great.
 
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Stock gearing for that sled is 23/40. W/O changing the gearing and going to 8 toothers, that’ll put you at 1.96:1. That’s much better that the 1.76:1 that you are at now.
Extros??? I hope.
 
Hey guys thank you for the past advice and I have questions about the inside of my tunnel as I have some damage from stud contact (from previous owner) and if it’s something to worry about or not as I did not have any problem last year ridding.
And back to my new track (talon 38 with 1.5” lug) so it will clear with a 9 tooth drive and you guys where saying about removing the heat exchanger protector as what is and does it look like? As idk if it’s already removed or not. (First time sled owner and I’m very mechanically inclined) and I have some slight surface scrapeimg on both rails any concerns about it? As I have new graphite sliders for her. (I’m having problems adding my photos)
 
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There are two protectors approx 1" x 1" square tubing. Both cover/protect the front h/e.
The slight scraping .... as long as it's slight, don't worry about it. It'll wear in to the perfect height.
 
Hey Vincent and A couple of bucks just wondering as you say my 1.5 will clear no problem with no protectors over my heat exchanger as what does one look like befor I throw my skid back in? Thank you again!
 
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