I'm not a gearing expert, but the gearing sounds kind of tall for that track. Stock track has a much lower lug height if I remember right. I had stock weights in my 600, but with a spring with a total force of 114 kg, don't remember the colors right now. And a 50/38 helix and a green spring wrapped at 70 deg. With the stock helix it would overrev like crazy. My sled is also the european version, which is red, and has a different clutching. (Had to change that). My run was on river ice, with just a hint of water on it and several plus degrees, maybe 6C. If you want to go crazy with it, get ahlod of a set of 8bu weights, hauck orange spring, 20/40 gears and a 45 deg helix and a hauck silver spring, and then go and drag. I tried that set up on my MM, and I had to let go before it flipped over me. Engages at 5500 rpm.
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A gearing combination w/ a total tooth count of 61 is perfect for non-power valved 500 or 600 Yamaha. This is providing that he has room to lightly stretch its legs. A total tooth count of 60 is for corner to corner w/ zero expectations of having much if any top end. But fence line to fence line is a blast ..... assuming you have the track to get the power to the ground.
My 15x144x1.5 has 20/40. It is a friggin BLAST to drive but my thumb is rarely against the grips for longer than a few seconds. It's rougher than a cob around here and speed runs are non existent. That is unless you want to end up a cripple like myself..... which was the result of my last speed run in December of 2010.
Now total tooth counts can have different results. Take Vince's 61 teeth. He can do 61 by having a 39/22 or lets say 40/21. Going from a 39/22 to a 40/21 will take load off of the motor..... even though the tooth count is the same. In this case rivets will need to be increased on the clutch weights to drop the RPMs back down. The RPMs went up simply by unloading the motor.
A 1 tooth adjustment on top has a similar(but not exact) effect of three teeth down low. Much like comparing an orange to a tangerine.
JM .02
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He is running a 700. I am the one with the 600, if that has anything to say.
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I should have clarified that his 700 could pull off a slightly higher tooth count. But certainly not a requirement dependent on what the owner is looking for. He simply has the CCs to pull it off should he want to.
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Vincent
New member
Not sure where your getting this near 1:3 ratio idea. My gearing is 22 - 39 , you'd need 22 -66 gears. To achieve your numbers
22/39 gives you a theoretical top speed of 165 km/h. Me, I don't need that kind of speeds from a touring sled. The 600s 18/38 gave a theoretical top speed of 139 km/h and that's how fast it was. If I had heelclickers in that thing, I could maybe have achieved closer to 145 on radar.
Vincent
New member
My sled tops out at about 148 km/h at the moment on gps. I would need to change my weights to something more top end aggressive. But realisticly the vast majority of my riding is done under 125kms. From 0 to 125kms it just freaken rips, and doesn't give a shit about my 136" Cobra! Past 125 acceleration slows down a fare bit
I'm currently helping my brother build a 600 triple 136" track Franken sled from last year's phazer, a junk Venture, and a Vmax we picked up for 450$. We ll starting him with the stock 20 - 39 gears ( reverse model)
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How tall are the lugs on that track? 20/39 seems fair.
