99 mm700 Trailing arm bolt

T

Tony K

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Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Oregon
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Hi all. First time posting here, and pretty new to snowmobiling.

I've got a bent trailing arm bolt on my 99 mtn max, and I *think* it's the only reason my ski is canted. Pretty sure it happened when I pulled it off the pick up bed without a ramp and it landed slightly on its side.

Do they typically have thread locker on them, and am I going to need to heat the bolt to remove it? I'm worried it's going to snap off when I go to take it off.

Thanks in advance
 
Holy crap, I think it landed a little more than slightly on its side, lol.
I am a little scared for you my friend.
Even if it bent that bolt, the front radius rods(upper and lower) would prevent that trailing arm from doing what I see in the pics.
If the radius rods are no longer doing their job and holding that trailing arm in place, your bulk head is busted.
You and the rivet gun will become close friends. lol
Look in front of the motor, under the exhaust pipe, directly under where the steering bolts onto the bulk head.
That is where the radius rods bolt to the bulkhead.
 
You are right Murder. KIMG0051.jpg
Looks like the lower radius arm (?) Is completely broken. Bulkhead looks good.
 
this is what broke:

ARM, CONTROL 2
8CS-2384F-01-00

I've never wrenched on a snowmobile. Are the nuts and bolts on the inboard side likely to have thread locker? Or should I just blast them with penetrating oil while I wait for the parts to get here?
 
That little bit is threaded onto a bolt. Try to spin it off. If not, take the bolt out that connects it to the bulkhead.
 
when i did the aluminum front end on my sx500r i did not remove the bolt through the frame. i just unthreaded it off of that lower hein joint and threaded the new one on.
 
Maim said:
when i did the aluminum front end on my sx500r i did not remove the bolt through the frame. i just unthreaded it off of that lower hein joint and threaded the new one on.
Click to expand...
Yep, that's what I was trying to say, if you can just unthread it, you will be back to factory adjustment as well, as long as you don't move the jam nut.
 
I might try that. Since the control arm is "fixed" (no heim joint) on the outboard side, the control arm can't get too far out of adjustment even if I don't get it torqued to the original specs.

I'm waiting for the new part to come in. In the meantime, I'm letting some penetrating oil work on it. I tried removing the outboard nut/ bolt with a set of 14mm open ended wrenches. Not strong enough. Going to pick up a strong box end wrench and breaker bar.

Have I mentioned this is terrible timing? Snowmobiling conditions are pretty amazing right now.
 
Well, next time skip the Hillbilly shuffle with unloading it!
Reverse at 15 mph then brake isn't so good for parts ! Lol !
If you have two guys, first pull it out just far enough so track is on the ground,
then one guy each grabs a trailing arm and sets front down. Pretty easy that way.
 
i unload it from back of truck all the time hill billy shuffle style but have learned that once you get 1/2 the track off of the tail gate you have to gun it to get it to go off evenly. always unloading by myself too so i make sure it goes right the 1st time.
 
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You guys are awesome. Thanks for the tips. Unthreading it from the heim joint was incredibly easy once I got this skid plate off.

Also wondering if this skid plate is an aftermarket add on? I can't imagine riding without it because it blocks some low vents that would quickly fill with snow when riding off of groomed trails. It's labeled "hole shot xt6"

Anyway. Now I just need to wait for the new control arm...
 
Yes, its aftermarket, and no you don't need it.
I have one on my SX, and none on my others. None of them fill up with snow.
 
Alright! New part arrived this morning, and got it all back together. We still have at least 4 feet of snow, with 6 inches fresh yesterday. Tomorrow is a great to ride!

Thanks for the help guys
 
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