Thanks for the replies and great information, everyone. I honestly like to go fast in pretty short stretches and not really interested in doing 100. But 80-85 like it was set on fire would be awesome! I must say, when some of you guys mention the helix at 80 degrees or whatever, I AM LOST. Lol. I understand the basics of a sled and I can rebuild the motor if properly motivated. But when it comes to gearing, clutching and jetting.....I am lost. I would really like to do the upgrades myself, because I can only imagine what a mechanic would charge for this type of work. I assume I need a clutch puller at the very least, then what about the secondary? If I make modifications to the primary, will the secondary be the weakest link? Also, any recommendations for gearing would be much appreciated. Thanks!
there are # on the helix and the clutch where the tangs on the secondary spring install. when you install it you add them together to get the degrees of wrap it is at ie 0+6= 60 degrees of wrap.
yes you need a puller to remove theprimary. i reccomend filling the hole with grease witch usually helps pop the clutch off.
yes you need a puller to remove theprimary. i reccomend filling the hole with grease witch usually helps pop the clutch off.
mod-it
Member
Search function in this forum or even youtube will help you with the clutches. It sounds a bit intimidating if you've never been into them, but once you have you'll realize there's not much to pulling them and taking apart for cleaning or adjustments.
The main thing will be like Maim said, if the primary hasn't been popped off the tapered shaft for a while, then they can be a real PIA to get off. I don't remove my primary to clean it very often, I clean it without removing from the shaft, but make it a point at least every other year to pull it clear off for a thorough cleaning and just to make sure it doesn't become a problem to remove in the future. Doing it this way it has always come off without my having to resort to grease, water, or any other "tricks" to get it off. When I first got the sled I did go quite a while before actually pulling the primary clear off, around 3 or 4 years, and had to hit the removal tool bolt with an impact to get it to pop off. Knowing what I know now and that it can cause damage on occasion, I'd rather not have to hit it with an impact again.
Anyways, I'm rambling. Do some searching and I think you'll be fine with getting them off and cleaned/inspected.
The main thing will be like Maim said, if the primary hasn't been popped off the tapered shaft for a while, then they can be a real PIA to get off. I don't remove my primary to clean it very often, I clean it without removing from the shaft, but make it a point at least every other year to pull it clear off for a thorough cleaning and just to make sure it doesn't become a problem to remove in the future. Doing it this way it has always come off without my having to resort to grease, water, or any other "tricks" to get it off. When I first got the sled I did go quite a while before actually pulling the primary clear off, around 3 or 4 years, and had to hit the removal tool bolt with an impact to get it to pop off. Knowing what I know now and that it can cause damage on occasion, I'd rather not have to hit it with an impact again.
Anyways, I'm rambling. Do some searching and I think you'll be fine with getting them off and cleaned/inspected.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
On the secondary clutch, there are holes numbers 1,2 & 3. There are holes numbered 0,3,6 & 9 on the helix. The spring is made w/ a 1/2" of spring steel protruding from each end of it. In order to get to that 80 degrees that you mentioned, the numbers on each end of the spring need to add up to 8 ........ or in our case, 80*. So a wrap of 80* would need one end of the spring stuck in the 2 hole and the other end stuck in the 6 hole. 2+6=8 or in our case, 80. A wrap of 70* would require one end of the spring in the hole marked w/ a #1 and the other end stuck in the hole marked #6. 1+6=7 or in our case, 70*.
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