Studding 1.25 Tracks

o.k.

I 've been searching for this thread for like an hour now, finally found it. I couldn't remember who started it. Anyway, here's my situation. I'm replacing the track in my 2002 Viper. My buddy has a new camo 9860 1.25 snowcross track. It looks like an awsome track. He wants to give it to me, but I'm gonna give him a couple hundred bucks for it if he'll take it. I definately want to stud it. All I'm worried about is the studs hitting the tunnel and going through the gas tank. I am going to put on 8 tooth drivers just because I'm nuts about things being EXACTLY the way they should be. I just want the piece of mind about the front heat exchanger. Plus a little better holeshot would be cool too with the lower gear ratio. I think this track is factory notched for heat exchanger protectors.


1) Will 96 studs be enough?
2) Can I feel safe that the studs(1.375") won't destroy the gas tank with 8 tooth drivers?
 
PHOTO'sPLEASE

Please post some photo's for us. I'd like to see up front how close the track is to the protectors and also how close the studs are to the exchanger. On the top side I always take out the crappy Yamaha protectors and use 1" square aluminum tubing and havn't had any problems since. Post those photos!!!

Madmatt
 
Yea, I would like to see some pictures too on the ripsaw with studs on a viper with all stock setup. thanks. what size studs work the best for the 1.25 ripsaw? ;)!
 
That track should be just what the doctor ordered for the viper.. THose sleds are pretty fast but really needed a 1.25 track from the factory.. I got holeshotted several times agains XCSP 600s with M-10s.. but luckly the viper has longer legs!
 
how tight

deekersrx700 said:
I think I just figured out what I'm gonna put on too! How tight should the 1.25 studded track be?
Click to expand...
no tighter than normal just check it everyday because when it gets loose from hooking up on ice in the middle of a lake someware there going to be a lot of rubbing going on.been there scratched that :EXER:
 
Misleading info 1.25 track

I have been reading this post and can't contain myself any longer. I think alot of guys are sharing bad info. Others are just plain wrong! When installing an 1.25 track you must use longer studs than most guys are used to. If you are looking for penetration into hardpack when trail riding your studs must be a 1/4 of an inch minimum longer than the lug to do any good. If you install 1.375 long studs you will obtain little benifit. The stud will be roughly the same height as the lug. The pics enclosed are 1.625 long from extream max. You cannot run the 9 tooth driver with 1.625 long studs. Eight tooth drivers required for clearance. Guys who run the 1.250 track unstudded can run the 9 tooth drivers. As far as track tension. Start the first season ride with tools in the trunk and adjust slowly until the track stops ratcheting. This way the track is as free as possible yielding max power.
 

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1.325 and 1.375 stud are from the top of the backer NOT from the track. So you get a 5/16 to 3/8 above the 1.250 track. Wood's and Stud Boy make there stud this way. The overall height of the Stud Boy is 1.675.
-Bruce-
 
;)! have a 2000 srx and installed a 1.25" camoplast w/1.325 Woody's signature series studs. To do this, 8 tooth drivers are a must. I have protectors for tunnel and front and rear exchangers. No problems w/ 192 studs. Your top end will suffer a little because of 8 drivers. I suggest a 25 top and 35 bottom gear ratio. 35/25x1.13 gives a 1.58 gear ratio. This 1.13 comes from Maxx Perf gearing w/8 drivers. These might be tall gears but w/ proper clutching it'll run on trails and lakes. I'm going w/ a 26 top this year. I also have my heads shaved .010 for a little extra hp. Hope this helps. ;)!
 
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