A few 02 vmax 600 questions

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mnsrx01

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Hello fellas, picked up a 02 vmax 600 with 3500mi for my kid this week and have a few questions for you guys. It is a electric start reverse rig and I haven’t had those luxury's before. So first off it has a 89l belt and calls for a 8dn with the same numbers following, what’s the difference in the belts besides the little back ribs on the 8dn? Second is the previous owner had the ring gear screws come loose on the primary so removed the ring and made it so the starter doesn’t turn over anymore so it has a battery that I haven’t tested yet. I know it needs a battery for a smoothing condenser and read for tach to work which it does work but does it need a good battery in it or will it wreck the charging system running with a crap battery? Again it won’t need to start the sled. Third does anyone have a pic of the routing for the pull cord, seems to rub on parts, maybe the way it’s supposed to be but wanted to make sure. The rest of the sled appears good to go but I’ll comb through it before I let him ride. Thanks for any input
 
Not sure on difference on belts but I would run Correct belt. 8dn’s are cheap enough and easy to find. Your battery will act as a smoothing condenser just fine being dead or good, Won’t hurt a thing. And as far as charging system that will be fine. The system charges the battery at the same rate no matter what the battery status is.
 
Good to hear thanks so much. I have a new 8dn belt here I’ll just throw on. Thanks again
 
8DN belt is much harder, for higher hp applications.(700’s)
89L was used on 600 twins, 8CJ on 500 twins.
 
Ok thanks. Just need to look at some under hood pics at pull rope routing yet. Also is a drilled stock exhaust quite a bit louder than stock? I’m not looking for obnoxious loud or I wouldn’t consider it.Also is jetting changes required if drilled?
 
Little louder, not a ton.
No jetting changes needed.
Guessing the missing spot your not going through is at the top of the chaincase.
There is a bracket with a 10mm bolt that holds it on. Must take bolt out and remove bracket, put rope in bracket, reinstall bolt.
 
Just have to clean carbs and change the chain case fluid then this should be trail ready. Does the finger tighten technique for chain tension still apply for a sled with reverse?
 
A couple of bucks I’ll try to load some pics. Got carbs off and noticed the bowl was rubbed on the corner. Guessing motor mount bolt? No reed spacers on it and carb boots are good. Not through but wore down. Was this an issue on redhead motors? I thought it was with spacers I remember reading before
 
I Test fit carbs back in and it must have rubbed steering post. With carbs properly installed there in about 1/4in clearance. I can see evidence on post where it was rubbing. I’m wondering if previous owner didn’t have carb boot clamps tight or airbox properly installed? Or it did have spacers on it at one time. Sled appears all stock
 
I have come to the conclusion it must have had reed spacers at one point. I found the old post I remember reading where someone had same problem. I’ll put a smear of jb weld over the wear spots for a piece of mind even tho not necessary and continue on.
 
Well I’m so close to having this thing ironed out. So I know I have a bad rt side hand warmer grip.can I bypass this grip temporarily until I get one by unplugging it and connecting the sled harness ends together to complete the circuit with out it?Temp light is flashing a code and I want that to go away Incase of actual overheat event happening
 
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A couple of bucks here’s your pics.When we got it and today a first test ride after A good once over.
 
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