2000 srx vent on gas tank?

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if this is clogged will it cause high rpm bog? also what is best way to get off, there is no room to work with the thick wire in the way
 

I'm not positive where the vent is you are speaking of however if you take the gas cap off and rubber band a rag around the opening, see if it goes away.
I thought the gas cap had the vent in it.
 
cool ill try that. wasnt sure if the purpose of vent was to create some pressure on the gas tank for fuel delivery purposes.
 
A little more detailed info may help us to diagnose your issue to help make sure you are looking in the right direction.
High rpm bog can be caused by the power valves not opening, usually only able to attain about 7000 rpm when not opening. Have they been cleaned and adjusted? Stuck power valves, pull throughs from the cable disconnecting from the valve, or a bad servo can cause this.
I've also seen a simple thing like a spark plug starting to foul cause peak rpm issues, it ignites fuel fine at lower rpm's but just can't cut it when at WOT (wide open throttle).
There are several other things that could be a culprit. Please give more detailed info and we'll help as best we can.
 
power valves have been cleaned, servo is working and have been adjusted. dont believe its clutch , i went wot for over a mile and consistant bog entire time. i replaces tors switches. replaced clutch springs, pulled motor to look for shafed wires and there was none. carbs cleaned and set properly, new fuel filter and hose, impulse line is good. i put new plugs on, new oem air filter. i ran hard 2 years ago in 2 feet of fresh snow for hours and hasnt ran right since. low miles on sled . i have not checked oil seals on motor . any other ideas is much appreciated. no joke i have searching for problem for 2 years. also a brand new fuel pump has been put on
 
any rust on the outside of the flywheel magnets ?
you checked those little screens in the carbs ?
 
Agree with Murder Yamaha, the "top hat" filter screens would be the next thing I'd check.
 
Screen hats are clean in carbs. Gas is drained end of every year. Flywheel looked like new. I was gonna replace stator so I bought an aftermarket one and I pulled flywheel and everything looked great even though u cant tell a bad stator by looking at it but with the low miles on it I left it alone.
 
At this point I'd probably do a compression check to see what it shows. Especially after re-reading and seeing that this problem showed up after running it hard for hours in deep powder.
 
I think the era of the 2 stroke is coming to an end. Considering the Yamaha's are basically all 4 strokes now and local Yamaha dealership answer is always "clean the carbs" . It's a shame you cant get answers from a local shop but I suppose they dont have the answers. I appreciate the help on this site. I'm narrowing down to electrical or oil seals. I just figured oil seals would show symptoms when starting or idling. It starts like a charm and idles great once warmed up.
 
It still could be that stator. Remember at this point we’re not really dealing with miles as much as how old it is. A stator can fail at anytime without warning.
 
I read through this again did we talk about the dreaded harness rub through? Also I’ve seen some TPS issues with The SRX. Do a search on TPS a few good write ups on this issue.
 
super1c said:
I read through this again did we talk about the dreaded harness rub through? Also I’ve seen some TPS issues with The SRX. Do a search on TPS a few good write ups on this issue.
Click to expand...

Chris might have a point although your symptom isn't typical. You mention pulling the motor to look for chafing wires but it wouldn't be the first time someone missed a spot by not removing the harness and pulling back tape and carefully inspecting every inch of every wire. He also may be on to something regarding the TPS (erratic output from the TPS resulting in pulling spark advance erratically).
 
i replaced the tps on the carbs but not on the handlebar. i believe there is a switch near the throttle flipper, i tested it and was getting proper readings open and shut. ill give sled a once over this weekend and put it up for the winter if it wont run proper. i appreciate all your help and if i find the problem i will post. finally barely just got enough snow to ride in the adirondacks in ny. very crappy winter. almost middle of february and great sacandaga lake is now safe enough to ride, hard to believe.
 
newbie said:
last question... what happens if i unplug tps and run it?
Click to expand...

Without TPS input, the CDI will not provide 3D mapping of the spark advance curve and will only base spark advance on RPM.

Mr. Viper had tested with the TPS adjustment (and may have tested with it disconnected) and found no performance increase, but Side Show Bob did an extensive evaluation while chasing a, I think, minor lack of power and found the TPs output very erratic which caused erratic spark advance. He used a degree wheel on the PTO and timing light to capture the effects. He was testing an '02 SRX with DCS.
 
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