TJ500
Member
I've been reading on other posts of crank bearing failure so can someone please explain "proper summerization"?.... I have not ever fogged and don't really know how or why one should.... I do however run my sleds a few times through the summer months for a few minutes... What else should we be doing...
thanks.. TJ
thanks.. TJ
BigMac
New member
TJ500 said:
What I typically do, not that it's the only way to do it, is pull the lid on the air box, start the engine, then aim the spray at the carbs 3 or 4 times until starts to sag a little, then spray the stuff liberally until it actually kills the engine. Then I pull the plugs and spray some the fogging oil into each cylinder hole and crank it over a little. Before I do the fogging, I put some Sea Foam fuel stabilizer in the tank and let it run loing enough to get the stuff into the carbs. I don't know if fuel stabilizers are any good or not, but I've never had anything bad happen from using them, so I do it.
Periodically starting the machine during the storage period is probably the worst thing you can do. The biggest problem with off-season storage is rust. Everytime you start the engine, it gets hot and as it cools off, condensation will happen leaving water or water vapor in the internals. My recommendation, fog the engine as the fogging oil mfgr recommends, stabilize the fuel, grease the suspension (to drive water out) prop the track, spray the skid with WD40 or something, charge the battery and leave the thing alone til it snows again.
TJ500
Member
thankyou.. TJ
98srx6
New member
I never really have gotten into the habit of summerizing my yamaha. I guess i secretly was hoping to be forced into the world of big bored srxs.
i always fog and use fuel stabilizer in my sled but it still runs like shit next season until it gets freash gas i think its because the gas in milwaukee is garbage with that ethonal in it.
I was told gashol is only good for like 3 months with stable in it.
I was told gashol is only good for like 3 months with stable in it.
Snowmobile Summer Storage
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If its a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for you fogger line.
start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly. You even have to make sure you do not have any lint from a shop rag that you may have all your clean parts lying on as you are putting the carbs back together.
Start sled and warm it all the way up.
Drain all the gas out of the tank. I use a siphon into a 5 gal gas can.
Start sled and run it until it stops, use the enrichener as it starts to die to keep it going.
Attach your fogger lines into the carbs. On the newer triple motors you can go in at the carb boots right into the carburetors. If you have a Phazer you can pull off the small rubber plugs that cover the brass tubs that are on the intake boots, you can then put your fogger lines over the brass tubes. If its a twin with the boost bottle you can remove the boost bottle and make two plugs that will fit in place of the bottle and drill a hole in each one for you fogger line.
start spraying the fogger and start the sled. The sled will run on the fogger. Use the throttle just enough to keep the sled running. Run it until it is smoking well and let the motor slowly die as you are still spraying.
I use silicon spray all over every thing, track, bogie wheels, seat seams, hood straps (leave em unhooked), wiring, hand grips, basically all the rubber stuff.
Grease the suspension. Some people will loosen the track.
To keep the mice out put steel wool or a dryer sheet up the exhaust outlet. Put tape or a dryer sheet over the air box intake, maybe through one under the hood too.
When getting ready for that first ride of the new season, put in fresh gas and pull and pull and pull. After you have all that fogger cleaned out, install new plugs or at least clean the ones that are in there.
I don't think I can stress enough about getting all the fuel out of the system for the summer, I had worked at a dealership several years ago for several years and I cannot even begin to tell you how many carbs I have cleaned because people let the gas set in the carbs all summer. Then they wonder why the sled won’t run right. Same with bikes over the winter. The jets and passages in the small carbs are not very forgiving and the gas goes bad very quickly. You even have to make sure you do not have any lint from a shop rag that you may have all your clean parts lying on as you are putting the carbs back together.
SRX7
New member
I was told to pull up the oil cable and let the engine die slowly that way.Then spray some storage oil down the spark plug holes.
theflamanguy
New member
I think everyone has a little different way of doing this task.But if you read all these reply's you'll find similarities between them all. Point of the matter is Fog the engine. I never did and this year it cost me $700CDN at the start of the season. Well you do not have to be an expert in economics to see that a simple can of engine fogger maybe $15.00CDN can save you a big headache. I will do it religously from now on. Like I always say...You can plan a piss but shit happens!
Don't forget a dryer sheet or moth balls in the seat compartment. Had the little critters tear my seat up from the inside once!
SRX7
New member
Lets make this a sticky and the end of the season,I still wanna ride.
A little trick to get fuel into the carbs in the fall, is to put a very slight amount of air pressure into the vent tube located behind the leftside shroud by the driver's knee. Don't put too much pressure as it will blow the vent fitting out of the tank. Saves a lot of pulls on the rope, as it fills the carb bowls. I pull the vent tube off the fitting that is welded to the steering gate, and place the air nozzle in the tube. Then only just tap the trigger a couple of times, don't put a lot of pressure on it. If you listen real close you can hear the bowls fill. Once they are full and you haven't put too much pressure on it, the fuel will stop flowing because the needle valves will close when the floats rise.
BigMac
New member
watersuper said:
This is an important tip...
I'm told that Bounce is the best mouse-repelling dryer sheet. I don't know if it's true, but I put a sheet in the seat storage, exhaust pipe, and three or four sheets scattered around the engine compartment. Additionally, I put several boxes of D-Con around the storage shed where the sleds are stored (keep away from dogs). Little bastards will make nests in the airbox, chew on wiring, and they seem to love the nylon lining on the foam hood liner.
yamahablue
New member
My buddy is a Yamaha Tech and this is what they do at the dealership, and what I've been doing for four years no problems.
1- fog carbs then cylinders
2-Drain bowls
3- silicon everything under the hood, and suspension
I recomend leaving little or no gas in the tank, less chance of a hard starting/running motor first snow next winter.
1- fog carbs then cylinders
2-Drain bowls
3- silicon everything under the hood, and suspension
I recomend leaving little or no gas in the tank, less chance of a hard starting/running motor first snow next winter.