I noticed you added a spacer on your crank arm. I was going to warn you from an earlier picture that in an unloaded corner, your tie rods are going to hit the frame. Maybe that is why you installed this. Make sure and check that out. It is a problem when long traveling with too much drop out. If you put it there to keep a perceived correct geometry of the front end. remove them cause this front end has tons of geometry issues to start with. Lots of bump steer. If you want to get rid of some of it, it requires a rack or drag link style front end setup. This will also remove the drop out tie rod hitting the frame in a corner issue.
Another issue you may or may not have thought about is your spindle angle. as you lift the sled, your cast changes, caster changes also affect your carbide/ski bias front to back causing huge problems with darting. It is easily controlled by adjusting. Read the article below if this is new to you.
On the rear hose covers, a nicer look is the mountain viper covers, they are cheap and look as they should. an alternative to this requires some aluminum tig welding and looks even better. you take an sx cooler, mount it flat against the tunnel in the stock location, then use viper covers to finish off. You can even install the bleeder on the outside while your welding. Love the build it the way you want it attitude, stock sucks, make it your own.
This being an older version of the srx, if you plan to install a riser, (looks like your going for ditch banger) they have steering stem issues. you can fix it easily before it breaks by installing a slug in the pipe down 6inches and welding it in. This stops the bend. It can still tear off though. The next better fix forever is to make a second plate and weld that onto the center tube as well. This was a kit at one time you could buy from yamaha racing department if you were going to snowcross or cross country your sled.
one more thing. The rear arm bushing does not have a lot of twist made into it. I recommend you get the sled set up height wise with this bolt loose. Then with height set, locktite it and tighten. This will put it in the middle of the travel and allow it to work in both directions. I have taken them off before and they are ripped .
Another issue you may or may not have thought about is your spindle angle. as you lift the sled, your cast changes, caster changes also affect your carbide/ski bias front to back causing huge problems with darting. It is easily controlled by adjusting. Read the article below if this is new to you.
On the rear hose covers, a nicer look is the mountain viper covers, they are cheap and look as they should. an alternative to this requires some aluminum tig welding and looks even better. you take an sx cooler, mount it flat against the tunnel in the stock location, then use viper covers to finish off. You can even install the bleeder on the outside while your welding. Love the build it the way you want it attitude, stock sucks, make it your own.
This being an older version of the srx, if you plan to install a riser, (looks like your going for ditch banger) they have steering stem issues. you can fix it easily before it breaks by installing a slug in the pipe down 6inches and welding it in. This stops the bend. It can still tear off though. The next better fix forever is to make a second plate and weld that onto the center tube as well. This was a kit at one time you could buy from yamaha racing department if you were going to snowcross or cross country your sled.
one more thing. The rear arm bushing does not have a lot of twist made into it. I recommend you get the sled set up height wise with this bolt loose. Then with height set, locktite it and tighten. This will put it in the middle of the travel and allow it to work in both directions. I have taken them off before and they are ripped .
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