Clutch Help!!!! 97 500XT Vmax

stugny said:
Have been having an ongoing issue with excessive fuel consumption. Went through carbs, did Reed stopper mod and more. Runs great, starts easy. So I cleaned and inspected clutches and put new OEM belt on. Everything looked perfect no wear, everything sliding and spinning easily. Sled has low miles on in sat a lot. So I took it out and ran it to handle bar after chalking clutch. This is what I have see pics. Any ideas?? Could a weak spring cause this? View attachment 66027View attachment 66028View attachment 66026
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You're barking up the wrong tree. You need to change the main nozzles as they wear substantially over the years and this is part of what meters fuel from 20-80% throttle openings.
They are the long brass tubes and need to be installed with slides removed.
 
2 & 6. I know it was 6 from factory as it has never been apart before. I forgot to check the inside when disassembling but makes sense it would be 2.
 
Funny you say that. I cleaned the carbs after having someone else do it and having it run worse when I got it back. It ran and started normal again after I cleaned but I noticed and even posted on a different thread that these brass tubes seemed sloppy. Maybe that is the issue! I know these sleds are notorious for bad mileage but definitely not 3-5 mpg. Over all it starts easily and runs decent although it doesn't seem quite as perky as it used too. I did pull the plugs after taking it for a test run and they have a nice color but did seem wet.
 
The tubes don't get sloppy, the problem is right near the top, the hole wears larger over time where the needle slides through it.
 
Thank-you that is the part I was referring too. I say sloppy but what I meant is they slide up and down easily when I had it apart. At first one side was sticking and pulling up with needle. Do carbs need to come completely out or can this be done from the topside?
 
stugny said:
Thank-you that is the part I was referring too. I say sloppy but what I meant is they slide up and down easily when I had it apart. At first one side was sticking and pulling up with needle. Do carbs need to come completely out or can this be done from the topside?
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The main jet at the bottom has to unscrewed. Easier to do this on the bench, I would take them off.
This part is starting to be discontinued, so if your dealer can't get them I see someone has them on ebay.
 
norwegian said:
Howcome mine still gets so "good" mpg then?
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Maybe the riding style is different. At wide open throttle all the metering is main jet. From 20-80 this part plays a huge part.
Get a new set and compare the opening.
I change these very often on all brands and also on any machine that has carbs and is older or has miles racked up, atvs, motorcycles, etc.
Some sleds these were not changeable, like the early 2000's Polaris twins, so when I have guys complain about bad milage, the only solution is to live with it or get rid of the machine
 
Now the fun part trying to find them. No one seems to have. Hard to believe!
 
I don't get this at all, so his nozzles are worn, but not mine? I have over 12000 km on the sled. I ride mostly at wot, and I still get 9,5 mpg. Besides, correct if I'm wrong, does not the main jet sit on the nozzle, restricting flow?
 
norwegian said:
I don't get this at all, so his nozzles are worn, but not mine? I have over 12000 km on the sled. I ride mostly at wot, and I still get 9,5 mpg. Besides, correct if I'm wrong, does not the main jet sit on the nozzle, restricting flow?
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The main jet threads into the bottom of the main nozzle. At wide open throttle, all of the fuel metered is controlled by the main jet. Approximately between 20-80% throttle fuel and metered the metering needle and the main nozzle. The metering needle is the long skinny tapered piece that moves up and down with the slide. The main nozzle is brass, and over time the hole at the top enlarges due to vibration, etc.

Think of it this way. If you had a 10mm shaft that was sealed with a 11-12 seal, instead of a 10mm seal, it wouldn't work very well, right?
 
Ever find anywhere to get the nozzles? I can't seem to find anywhere in thenUS. Seen one on Ebay but from Japan.
 
Did you ever get this figured out? It just isn't adding up...

Something is definitely stopping the clutches from shifting out. Likely the secondary as someone mentioned. If you have a stand I like to run them on the stand and watch the clutches with the clutch guard removed !!! JUST Be Safety MINDED !!! keep out of the line of the belt.

I am wondering if the bushing in your secondary has worked out and is keeping the sheaves from opening after a point.

IMO all of the other stuff mentioned could not cause this degree of not shifting out. Even sick motors will shift out at some point.
 
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